TomoHawk

The 280Z was only exported to the USA, which is why they had LH mirrors.

This is the hole we are referring to. It's only on the left door. thx

I'll take my right one off later to see if there is the bigger hole underneath.

Thanks for the information. My next move was going to be to ask what kind of mirrors would be appropriate for the 280Z. AFAIK, there are chrome ones on a short verticle arm, chrome bullets, (Talbots), black (or painted) plastic aero-bullets, euro-styles, and others. The motorcycle mirror I noticed was appealing because of the long stalk that puts the mirror farther out to the side, allowing you to see behind the car (closer to the bumper) better. The center mirror is there, but all three mirrors help to eliminate blind spots as much as possible, so you don't have to go climbing around to look out the windows and spend more time looking forward. I lean toward the Testarossa styled one. thx

The picture was working before. Like I said, you can see the mirror I have, and below is what the mounting plate looks like. Underneath the mounting plate are the two small holes for the two screwsin the pictures, plus a bigger hole, about 20mm dia., which I assume was for an oem mirror.

I forgot about that, Carl. Next time I'll have to remember...

ther are actually two (2) arms to the fuel level sensor ( at least in the 280Z). One for the gas gauge, and the other one is just a switch to ground tro complete the circuit for the light. Maybe somebody can confirm this if you have a different car. Hope this info helps. thx

You're right,Tom. I really didn't need to say what I did & I apologized to all the good folk here. The reason is that they probably already know over there what I was thinking.

I looked at some euro-styled mirrors today at the auto parts store, and they are fairly inexpensive at $10 each. I ordered some from MSA, and it looks like the same ones. Having the same mirrors is good because you can use the same mounting. More holes in the door to rust I don't need. The old ones are definitely going to the trashcan when I'm done. Even the glass isn't worth saving. thx

Admin didn't approve the picture that's was just uploaded to my gallery... It will be there soon. thx

What do the baffles have to do with maintaining fuel pressure in the rest of the fuel system? the section between the fuel pump to the injectors is under high pressure, and the return line is low pressure. IMO, the baffles in the fuel tank keep the fuel from sloshing around, which keeps the level sender at a fairly constant level and not bouncing your gas gauge too fast. You are correct in that the pressure inside the tank is from the vapor pressure of the fuel in the tank, and maybe just a little from the returning fuel. thx

The fuel pump has it's own filter, but I've never seen one in any catalog. Also, what makes you think that the fuel tank is under pressure. The only part of the fuel system that has real pressure is the part between the fuel pump and the presssure regulator, whichincludes the injector rail. The gas tank has some slight pressure because of the returning fuel. thx

This is the sideview mirrors I have right now (first attachment). The pivots are getting loose, and I tightened them up all it goes, so I would like to replace these with newer ones. I saw something similar on the MSA website, but I'm not sure. Maybe somebody here recognizes this unit? the mirror attaches to the baseplate with the single screw to the hole between the two slots. An alternative idea I had was to get some motorcycle mirrors and make a baseplate that screws to the door in place of the one that's there. There is a hole about 20mm in the door under the plate in the picture so a mirror's axle/spring/nut can go through. The motorcycle mirrors look real racy (second attachment). thx

The red fuel light is the warning light to get you to fill the tank. Most newer cars haver them. What did you do to hget the warning light to work? It has one leg always +12V and is hooked up to the level sender in the gas tank, which breaks the ground leg for the light when you have some gas in there (how much?)

I'm pretty sure my resistance track on my airflow meter (78 280Z) is totally worn out, or just really worn. The resistance with the flap closed isn't (near-zero) like the book says, and it doesn't go up smoothly with movement of the flap. I could order a used one, but then I'd have two, so why not have a go at fixing the resistance trip? I think I'd probably need to graft one from another source, like a giant potentiometer or another similar AFM. Or is there a source of material used to make resistance strips? thx

You are correct about the elevated fuel pressure, but the spec on the 280Z is 46 PSI. I have a pressure guage on my engine, and it shows about 40 PSI with the engine running mid-range RPMs, and about 30 PSI at idle. Fuel hoses rated higher than the 46 PSI won't hurt you tho. The size is 7-8mm, NOT 1/4 inch, which is what VB sent me when I ordered their F.I. hose.

Thanks for the link, Mike. The TerraTrip is nice, but I wanted to go simple at first, by using just a timer or two, and a counter of some kind, or even a program on my pocket PC. That way you learn to pace yourself. The bracket could be there just to hold the Pocket PC with the mapping software while driving anywhere. I like mine up higher than the glovebox lid about even with the bottom of the clock. IMO, the glovebox door is pretty flimsy. I would think that just about any weight will break it off. That is why I asked about a bracket and a mounting place. The first thing I can think of is to remove the heater vent panel and the control panel, and make a bracket that mounts in place of the control panel. But then I think you'll lose control of the heater, unless you could cut down the heater control panel a little (1/16 inch?) on each end to squeeze in two legs for a mounting bracket. There has to be a way to make use of the bolts inside there. thx

Is there any design information for a bracket to mount a timer for rally driving? where/how would it mount? I could probably think of a few other things that would be nice to have handy- not cupholders. It's a 280Z. thx

Will, a thin sawzall blade fits between the two arm pieces, and you can just cut the spindle pin, then it will drive out easy with a few taps.

It was my 2-do list for today. I was about to go out to look into it at the time you responded.

Absoluely no help, Tom. :stupid: Mufflers don't use bearings "Fresh air" in the tires months ago C4 trans is in the Mustang Inspired by the irrelevant comment, and having some free time, I went out and got under the dash. The cable had twisted itself (in a knot). Having straightened it out, the cable turned freely again. thx

I was resetting the trip odometer on my 280Z yesterday when I refueled, and for some reason, the cable inside got all bound up and wouldn't turn. It worked fine and turned freely until yesterday. I was on the second time around and the numbers are all stuck on 4s now. Is there a fix for it? Doesn't want to turn backwards and loosen. thx

Why not remove the front bumper to expose the radiator area and make metal teeth to fill the 'mouth?' REAL TEETH! for people to see as you're following them. Then cold, black eyes, and gills on the side. You're going to need a fin on top and a tailfin.

Do you mean the early Z should have looked like that? when you say "This is what a Z should look like" it depends to which model/generation are you referring? thx

My wipers are nice & smooth on low. The go really slow with the engine OFF (of course- battery voltage is 12.3volts with engine off). But the volts goes up to 14.5 with the engine ON. Headlights etc. are brighter too. Of course you don't want to run the wipers with no liquid on the glass. So tomorrow (if it doesn't snow) I think I'll remove the arm pivots and take them apart- did the linkage last summer. They still clunk in high speed tho. Maybe a pivot cleaning will fix that. BTW, I removed the wiper amp/relay module, and it's like brand new inside. I was expecting some corrosion to explain the slow speed. Most all the interior (protected) wiring is in excellent condition. Only the wires exposed to the elements (heat & water) got brittle or rusty. thx