TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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Philly Auto Show - Shelby GR-1 Concept
TomoHawk commented on AChev's gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
I think the size of the wheels is OOK, but they could show a little less by covering them with the fender flares or widening the fenderwells. thx -
Sounds like my Ford Escort! But with a body kit.
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I would go with the exact same design, but with more contemporary conponents where it wouldn't bump the price up too high (keeping with the original 'low cost'), lighter materials to get the weight down to about 1900 Lbs., everything metal galvanized, and a nice whiney 2.8L V10 or V12 ( for 280Z) using an updated version of the Bosch L-Jetronic sytem. And Hopefully not too much in terms of emmisions on the engine. Carl's pictures are interesting. thx
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The heater fan swap on Hybridz.org is (or was) the more popular Ford LTD. I gave that note so Mr. lvmy240Z would have complete information to pick the best option for him. I don't know how many Ford LTDs you'll find in Japan tho. I will make a note of the the Hnda fan swap.I might want to replace my heater fan after I get out to check it. thx
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Bump-stops are just bumpers for then you bottom-out the suspension. I'd leave them in unles you are off-roading your Z. Do you need -that- much travel on the street? :eek: To lower the car, you can also trim down or remove the rubber isolators from the top of the strut. Lowers the car like 1 to 2 inches, but you lose ride comfort. thx
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Their referring to the fan motor from a Ford LTD. It might need a nip here or there, or a connector swap, but it should bolt-up and you get more airflow.
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Because one would think that there would be a link somepace to their official or technial information or documents.
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Here's the link to the pdf (Adobe Acrobat) document on ZCCA car judging: http://www.zcca.org/downloads/JudgingRules_rev2002.pdf
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When I got that document, it was current. The information hasn't changed, but since the ZCCA has recently updated the whole website, I thought they would have posted updated technical documents too; which they have. Here is a link to the updated document: http://www.zcca.org/downloads/JudgingRules_rev2002.pdf thx
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I got this document from ZCCA.org in jan. 2005. I think they have re-arranged their website, so I cannot find a recent location. I'm posting the text file for the time being. thx ZCCA judging.txt
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I think it would be of interest to go look at aaca.org They have a comprehensive judging manual, but I dunno if it's really relative to Z cars.: http://www.aaca.org/judging/AntiqueAutoClub_2005Manual.pdf Vicky- I haven't been able to find any judging information on ZCCA.org- Can you post a link, or some pointers to info? I have a text file I got from ZCCA a few months ago, which I posted in the tech articles section. thx
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That's how things were at any car judging I've been to. Except it they were regular cars, not Z. Besides, you wanted to go look at the other cars anyway.
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I have even heard of the final score on a pair of cars that are tied in points coming down to having all the slots ( or whatever) in the SCREWS (door screws, head bolts, or whatever) aligned the same. Do you think you could align the hubcaps without taking them off? I think it's not likely that your wheels (hubcaps) would be at the same position when you park the car. So you just lift up thewheels to turn the cars to get the "D" to be correct on all four corners Talk about type "A"
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That wire is important. The (-) terminal is what the tacho is connected to. Maybe that helps.
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I looked there. The picture showed the injector pintle cap. O-RING, the insulator and the aluminum spacer. I think Red-Eye was right in a way. The larger o-ring was for the ZX cars. thx.
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Thanks. But are you sure about that? The screws aren't long enough to put any extra stuff on there. thx
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I just got an "Injector Seal Kit" VB Part #57-200 ( pg. 80 in cat. 44, upper right corner). I'm puzzled as to what's inside. There are six smaller o-rings which I think go on the injector tips, and six larger rings. What are the larger rings for? Don't see it in the repair book. thx
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I got a bottle of the 200mL size myself to try it out. But after doing the injectors, temp sensors, I'd like to get a 5oz. can to do the rest of the engine connectors. I did a search on eBay and all they had there is cans of D5. But since the Parts Express is in my state, I order stuff and get it the next day, so I'll be giving them my business instead of waiting a long time for some Ebay item. I tried some of the D5 spray ion the headlights connectors ( the ones in the engine bay) and I'm pretty sure it helped, but not as much as I think the D100 should. I even tried soaking some connectors in Evaporust. After I finish the engine, I'll do the headlights, then wipers, etc. Just don't spray it on skin; freezing cold stuff. th
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I've been using D100 on the engine wiring connectors. You just spray it on, and it bubbles, then the connector is CLEAN! OK, I had to spray a couple times on the really bad stuff. I got mine at www.partsexpress.com D100 (2oz.) $12 Info: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=341-205 Carl, Can you get the 5 oz. D100 on eBay?
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Right, Avgas is color-coded, so you know what type is is. If you mix grades, it turns clear: 80/87 Red 110LL Blue 100/130 Green
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I used to see different "lead additives" in the stores and in magazines, but that was in the 90s, and I haven't seen it since. I t was mainly for the British cars, because they didn't havet he parts available to convert the engines to unleaded fuel. I think those parts are now available, so the lead additives are gone
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If you would ask people on the street for a $2 bill, most will say, "what's that?" or "You can't get any of those." Maybe you have a few around. I have 3 of those for collecting, as well as some rare $1 and some $2 coins. the only place you can find the $2 bills lately is at a bank. Thats why I I say they don't exist. Nobody bothered to ask what I meant by that. I'm the only person around here to ask the questions others are afraid to ask. If nobody asks those questions, no one will ever know what's better, what's not, what will work, or won't, or whatever.
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$2. Such stuff from Mr. Scanlon that he doesn't even know there's no such thing as a $2 bill. He is totally misinformed, and has no ideas of the capabilites of others. Nor does he care to find out or even ASK. have a nice day.
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No. I only mean the Booster and the M.C, as those go together. If I was rebuilding the rear brakes I'd so the rear cylinders. You can do all the parts like you were suggesting, if you wish.
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I know you were referring to the booster unit. I suggested the upgrade to the ZX unit, but I forgot to mention the master cylinder AND the booster both, BECAUSE: When I do the brake booster, I replace both at the same time. It looks like Beandip and others only make reactive repairs, which means ONLY replacing the booster and using the same OLD worn-out master cylinder. This misunderstanding creates a problem. Instead of presuming YOU have the only reasonable comments why don't you ask others to clarify their statement when you don't understand??:stupid: