TomoHawk

it would be good to know what you did to mount the seats. Di you modify the mounts? thx

Before you start taking the engine out, or while you ARE taking it out, you better look at the wiring and connectors, if the connectors aren't perectly clean & shiny and the wires conduting perfect with no resistance, your money won't be of much help. The engine depends on the ECU doing its job perfectly, and with the old wiring ( and sensors, and AFM, etc.) and connectors, the ECU won't be getting the correct information to produce the right fuel mix or probably even put out the right signals to the injectors, etc. to make those horses you are looking for. Get yourself a good repair manual and/or FSM, and the "280Z fuel injection 'Book": '280Z fuel Injection Book I've been working on the wiring & stuff for about two years (summers) when I get time.

That's interesting. What kind(s) of variable do you think are involved? brake pad area? rotor diameter? Pad material? thx

It looks like i'll be replacing the thermotime switch a little earlier than I thought.

My replacement fuel rail will have a pressure gauge on it, so it should tell me what the pressure really is.

You're right. Using the scope, you can see when the points open & close, so you can tell if the points are bad, and other stuff. I should hook it up to the electronic dizzy on the Z, and read up on what the line should look like.

I was reading the FSM, and it tells you the factor spec on fuel pressure is 36 psi(and may fluctuate a little higher or lower), so it looks like 90 psi hose might be a little overkill, but not a bad idea for safety. thx

I think you'd be better off viewing the voltage with an oscilloscope. I have an ignition analyser with a scope on it that measures rpm, dwell, saturation, etc.

Steven, Are you sure about checking the thermotime switch? I w as reading in the FSM, and it says to check from the one pin to the metal body for continuity. Mine reads ~60 ohms that way. I think that means "0 ohms" in antique-wiring talk. I have an injector pigtail, so I'll try your idea.

Thanks Sean- I'm going to look into using maybe two glasspacks; one for a pre-muffler, and one for the end, to keep things to a minimum. I can almost see the coffee-can muff from the side, so maybe I can get it all to hide under there, except the ANSA tips. thx

The guys on Hybridz.org are having success with the radiator fan from a Ford Taurus. You might want to check out the details on that. General info Wiring diagram Fitment of fan Extra stuff: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95365

I think I'll probably go with a glasspack. They are dirt-cheap (relatively) and as much as I drive my 280Z, the packing should last many years. The only problem now is to pick the size- I think a 2 1/2 x 26 incher will do. In a natural metal finish. A converted cat-con would propbably be too much trouble to mess with to meet my deadline to get mine running. Spring coming soon to Ohio. thx

I can use a ride there. fortunately, petrol in Ohio is only $1.89. th

Thanks Lance I didn't think a JY would sell you one because of paranoia/liability/laws. Maybe they have premufflers from other cars that would fit. But there might be some 'friendly places- I'll ask some friends. Maybe I'll get a cheap one from JCWhitney. They have some "high-flow" models that are long & thin. Maybe it'll work to cut down on HC emmissions too. I need to read up on how cat-cons work. I'll keep the glasspack in mind as a last resort, but I'm trying to keep the looks of the exhaust the same( like stock) by putting on an expansion chamber/pre-muffler. It was designed to work that way and be quiet. A gutted catalytic converter is the closest thing I can find or think of that would look right without mods or painting. Plus glasspacks have to be repacked eventually, right? I'll try calling a muffler shop to see if you can buy a new pre-muffler. thx

Is it legal to gut a catralytic converter to use as an expansion chamber? Those ought to be easier to find and cheap at the JY. thx

there is TONS of stuff there, but most of the prices are $0.00 so I wonder if either the online store is broke, or the prices need to be entered, or you gotta call them. Otherwise: Reman dizzy= $38.00 Reman AFM= $38.00 ?

I was reading about the MSA tips that you can use without a muffler, and they warn you not to use the tips if you don't have the "pre-muffler." I think they're referring to a 'resonator' or expansion chamber. Where can buy new ones of those? Not in any catalog I have. thx

How about http://www.bap-geon.com/

Uh oh... I will have to go back to the hangar with a light and a magnifying glass to see if the o-ring is still in there, because I definitely didn't see any on the injectors that are on the bench. and I will try to get under and look up there to see what the hole is for. Maybe a mirror will help. Something to do with a pre-heater maybe? Good info, thx.

Thanks webdawg1 That photo seems familiar, but I don't remember where I saw it before. My injectors don't have the #1 in the pic (Injector lower rubber insulator). Instead, a plastic 'cap.' I will dig them out maybe Saturday, and I can post a pic if you want to see one; assuming I get one out intact. thx.

If the rear end locks up first, is the nose diving in really bad? It's the only reason I can think of for the rear wheels getting light enough to lock up- even in my front-wheel drive escort. We do the same stuff on bikes in panic stops- you dump your butt off the back of the seat as far as you can to get more weight over the back wheel.

I saw one of those TV shows where(WRC- France) they talked to some co-drivers & crew, and it was mentioned that they send over a team (probably including the co-driver) to survey the course. Sometimes the co-driver will go over the course twice to check the notes. Talk about good memory-- Some of the Paris-Dakar drivers have been there more than once, and their good memories have saved their butts occasionally but not taking a wrong turn from the year before. Atocross drivers will literally walk the course. Something I doubt the WRC co-drivers will do. OR the Paris-Dakar co-drivers.

I talked to Gordon at WitchHunter.com, who will clean, Repair, & Rebuild your injectors. He tells me the little plastic thing that gets stuck in the intake after you remove the injector is called a "pintle cap" and he replaces those with an injector rebuild. So if there's a plastic cap on the injector tip, there's no o-ring. What's that little roundish plate in the middle of the intake for? I can't mine off. thx

In addition to the cold-start injector, there is an Auxilair Air Valve that bypasses the throttle-body to let a little extra air into the intake, simulating a partially-open throttle. It's supposed let the engine run better when cold, and the valve closes off after a few minutes ( don't know exactly how long).

Apparently, people in your area have a weird idea of "life." Do you have any useful information relative to the original question? thx