TomoHawk

What's wrong with that tape?

Can you race other people over the Internet with that? I couldn't tell... thx

I assume you mean for the radiator hoses. Do thet make small diameter high-pressure hose for vacuum and fuel system? thx

Once again it's time to think about armchair racing for the winter.... This time I'd like to ask for suggestions on what program, or software, to use on a PC that features 1st gen Zed(s). I know some of you guys have those game boxes, but we need a COMMON PLATFORM, so I'm going with the PC, since (I assume) PCs all have some kind of an Internet connection. I don't want to buy a game box, as I'd rather buy parts for the Z, but software can be gotten cheaply.

It's nice to hear from you, that you consider our little group worthy of such a great opportunity. However, I was dissapointed the 240Z show. these cars weren't meant for "drag racing" without a V8 engine swap! And yet the whole show focuses on how hard and how fast these people can get the car to go down the strip. I realistically expected the 30+year-old rear axles to break! I'm surprised they got all that work done in the first place. I think it would have been more appropriate to to go to a road-race track, and have have Mr. Morton ( who was featured on the show as a 240Z racing 'expert') to first drive both cars to size-up the track, then have the teams race there several laps, or even several heats of 2-3 laps, for the prize. The other show I saw involved cars more suited to drag-racing, like the El-Camino vs. Ranchero show. I wouldn't even drag-race my 280Z! But I'd definitely take it road racing. My boy LOVES taking a street corner at 35 MPH!

"Speed on Tweed"... British drug junkies? God bless Mother England. cheers,

Funny!.... not Actually, I've seen it used when it was in-vogue many years ago (80's?) and I think once at a car cruise last summer, which is why I didn't just throw it all away. Apart from draining ALL the coolant to get the radiator hoses off, and never mind what some second-rate service techie would do to your perfectly smooth wrap-job if you drop it off for service... On the other hand, ALL the OE rubber hoses & such under the hood are hard, have "scales" and/or cracking, and some of the plastic hose holders are cracked or missing, so I'm planning on replacing those, and I might as well protect them from rubbing/scuffing. Assuming I use the shiny stuff in the right places and in the right way. thx

I have a box of that nickel-plated faux- braided hose covering with the cheap red-colored plastic clamp covers. I would like to know if others have any experiences with the covering, like how it looked, and what things to cover. An alternative to the cheap red clamp covers sounds good. My suggestions: radiator hoses fuel lines in & out ??? thx

IMO, The plastic loom tube is great to hold a big bunch of wires (like headlight wiring) together like you said, and you can put clamps or ties on it and not worry about crushing, but I think that water can get in too easy, and in some places it's way too loose or cheap, like on top of the engine, where you want minimal 'stuff.' There, I'd rather wrap 2 or 3 wires with tape, instead of loom. thx

Does that stuff get 'hard'? Wouldn't that be bad, because you couldn't bend it, or move it away while working in the area? I like 'hockey tape.' moisture doesn't bother it, and it leaves no residue. It's also clear, and I don't know if it'll get brittle.

It looks like a vintage Mustang grille, which is cheaper from an aftermarket supplier. Or you can get a grille material and make your own.

I saw one of those l.e.d. replacements that had only ONE l.e.d. on the plug, instead of the usual 2 or 3. It was a special "12-volt" l.e.d

The l.e.d. replacements just plug in where the bulbs were. You would just pull out the bulbs and plug in the l.e.d. Don't you have any ricer shops in your area? They should be able to get these replacement units for you straight away. About the only GOOD thing the ricers have to offer. cheers,

It would be neat if somebody could make moulds ofthe cenyter console, heater facia. You could make it in parts so you could customize the configuration.

I've seen many new Cadillacs with l.e.d. brake lights. At first they surprise you because instead of 'powering up' like a bulb does, they go instantly on, like a strobe light. I was tempted to panic-brake (once it was on the freeway), but I usually don't follow that close and I had time to get used to the new stuff. I'd expect to see them everywhere after a while.

Tommo- the l.e.ds for the dash have bases so they directly replace the bulbs there (194s?) No need to adapt anything- just remove the old plugs, and plug in the leds. _IF_ you can get the bulbs out.

AFAIK, All the pieces in my linkage were steel. I took everything apart, except the pivots (oops?) and I used the teflon washers on the connecting pins, under the c-clips to replace the shims that was worn away & rusted. They happened to be the right thickness, and shouldn't rust. Walter- I was referring to brushless motors as magnet-less because that's how Daniel was referring to them. I have one of those too, in one of my r/c boats. I like the simplicity of brushed PM motors.

What was done to rebuild your motor? Did you use the same plastic bag to protect your motor? thx

the rest of the car came with them..... free.

I saw the 'Full Throttle' show with the 240s... Got it on tape still ( I think I haven't recorded over it yet). It was a REAL SHAME that they built up these ol' "road racing" style cars and used them for drag racing :disappoin I wouldn't have been surprised if the half-shafts all broke or something like that. I think they should have used period parts, like bigger SUs or whatever to fix them up, but I didn't think the MSD ignition wasn't that bad. Did they have MSD ignition in 1970-72? And they should have had one more day, or at least a half day to build (or next morning before racing) or to tinker or acclimate to the car. Maybe they did and didn't show it. Instead they just got in and drove it like a new race car. I didn't push things with my 280Z until I drove it occasionally for a few weeks. It's hard to believe that they did a GOOD job painting it 'overnight.' Some people like all the arguing stuff, but I would have preferred to have some honest people do the work to see just how far you really can get, with good results, in the two days they give you.

My name ISN'T Tommy. What's the purpose of Brainstorming? And I asked a valid question!! It's NOT a half-baked idea because I got my idea from somewhere else- I just can't remember right now. And what's wrong with trying a new direction to an idea that's not really successful? NO, I'm NOT going to try it on my car, because I LIKE having my pushbutton lock on the hatch. If the door locks fail (kind of loose already), I can get in through the back. So what is the purpose of having an OPEN FORUM, if only "certain people" can give opinions??? SO,if you think my idea isn't developed enough for YOU, why don't you ask for elaboration? the sketches I have in my notebook are plenty for me. OK? H.A.N.D.

no problem, Daniel If you're talking about 'magnet-less' motors, they need an electronic controller to make them go. Examples are computer floppy & hard drives, which still have magnets, but those are on the (armature part), and the coils are fixed. Except for the alternator, which isn't a motor, and the coil(s) are turned via engine & belt.

Instead of fooling with the lock mechanism, why not just hook up the cable to the striker bracket? If you just take out one bolt(essentially) to let it swivel and cut one side off so you have a bracket with a pin pointing to the side, you would just have to hook up the cable to the bracket to pull the in away from the hook. Maybe even build a new bracket with a tapered hook to pull out easier. Or beef up the bracket/pin that's there (how much load is on that hook?)

Daniel, you need to inform yourself. I don't get my racing motors from Radio Shack! My $150 neodym motors will give you 1 horsepower! On 7.5 volts! (6 cells). But the motor in my example was one of the (cheap) $45 ones. Sad that it went bad; I had it tuned perfectly, and it got overhauled after every race day. FYI, the wiper motor, heater motor, starter motor, et al, have PERMANENT magnets in them. The starter having the better magnets, because it's in a high-heat area. the starters on old muscle cars go bad because of the heat from the headers! (been there- seen it happen). The alternator has an electromagnetic coil, hence the need for the 'energizing' circuit. Thanks for your minimum compliment. BTW, the rumcurrent world speed record for electric r/c boat is 121 MPH! Faster than ANY I.C.-powered (gas OR nitro) model! http://rumrunnerracing.com/ (top-center photo)