TomoHawk

The vinyl-covered panels attach to the inside of the hatch with screws. These screws are like flat-head wood screws with a slight crown on the head. Colors differ0- probably same as the finisher. The plastic panel on the inside covering the taillights is attached along the top with plastic, barbed tivets and screws for the two covers over the two taillights. The salesman may have been referring to the wrong panel.

While I would refer to a dedicated text on the fuel injection system, I would expect the FSM to have a certain amount of detail to those things that are unique to the Datsun- like the door moulding removal & install. Even if it just says to pry it off carefully to remove, and hammer on carefully to install. Same for the TPS switch ( how to adjust). Like Carl says, you gotta have some aptitude for most general stuff. Until I come on some other books, I will need to rely more heavily on what reference material I do have.

the nest wiring diagram I found was the one from Mitchell's. It looks like i will have many books & such for all the things I will need to repair & refurbish & calibrate.

Can you tell us, roughly, what those run? thx

you're screwed, bud.

Be careful what you say to PayPal. Their usual solution to any money problem (like refund) is to get rid of you. then you may or may NOT bew able to get a new account. Happend to somebody I know who got their account hacked at Paypal. Spent the totall allowance on some stuff, then disappeared. Paypal closed the account. Paypal apparently only wants the commission and don't really care about you. Even if they are associated with eBay. No, it wasn't me.

.Finally got my FSM CD today. I looked through it for a while to look up the next two things I'm going to work on and I couldn't find them! 1. how to replace the door upper moulding with the rubber window sea (squeegee)l. I know we discussed this here, but I wanted to get the factory's version. 2. How to get at (replace) the headlamps. My goal there is to clean off the connectors in an attempt to improve the headlights. 3. how to adjust the throttle position sensor, or "throttle control switch". Not an immediate concern, but the engine runs rich, so all info gleaned will help in the end. I did find info on the second, but it didn't mention you had to remove the "inner fender protector." Overall, what I saw looked a lot like what is printed in the Haynes manual. It was not that detailed, not giving a proper description of how to adjust said control, besides having the idle switch closed at idle, and the WOT switch closed when butterfly is at 34*. I'm not too impressed. :disappoin

Got a chance to get some heater controls from a 76 280Z to put on my 78 2808Z, so I can select the different functions without pulling over to look at where the lever is set to. I'm just not sure if they will interchange? thx

That's what the "full warm" and "full cold" marks are for- to see if it's working right. You might be right about the failing cap.

My friend in Tampa (keys) got married last summer. Dress code was Hawaiian shirt, shorts, sandals, swimsuit under the shorts. Wedding cake came in a glass and consisted of rum, & fruit!

I think there are some holes on the pass. side, front of the radiator support, to mount the tank. I wouldn't want it on the driver's side, either. The air cleaner is there & I wouldn't want to suck in any coolant. See attaced pic.

I ordered mine from VB; $50 ea. I suppose you could go to the JY and measure the length of car doors, like the older GM sportscars, and assuming the squee-gees are the same profile, order for that model & put them on your Z. i.e. , the PROFILE is the most important, but you might get away with splicing the length. Best to get a one piece unit that does the whole job, of course.

when I move the leater control lever, it doesn't 'click' into the different positions. I think there's a spring-loaded ball that is supposed to click into some detents in the control frame, right? Mine must be missing. Can you get those & put them in, or do you have to get the whole control system? Maybe bodge a spring-thing in there? thx

I had to get an aftermarket one, because I didn't see the bracket for t he old one. I hate it when they drill holes for those cheap screws! I can hear the rust already forming in those holes

OHIO! "Best location in the nation". "Gateway to the West" "Rock N Roll Capitol of the World" "The Northcoast of the U.S.A." i.e.: the most techologically-advanced and forgotten city in the U.S.A. Not to mention where I live.

I'm waiting for somewbody to make a suggestion for a 280ZX, 300ZX, or *gag* a 350Z...

Mine has some kind of leak at the right bottom corner ofthe gl;arse on the seal-inner edge. I tried to seal it with some silicone, but I don'y think I got it all. Bofy shop guy says I should remove the glass & replace the seal. I think After using the hose treatment, I'll apply a little more silicone, and leave the new seal for later. cheers, or as we say inC-Town, "Yo Baby, Yo Baby, Yo!"

Those chin spoilers scare me. I keep thinking of every time I come out of a gas station or restaurant parking lot, then DOWN the aprom to the street, then ssccccrrrrraappinnngggg the spoiler on the pavement.

Seal go betwen two fixed pieces, like windsheild & frame, 1/4 window & frame, fender & body. weatherstrips go betweeen moveable parts like doors & body, side window & frame.

I just got mine yoday. I still think we need to find the correct replacement rubber. If you are restoring your car, you might not want a replacement that looks out of place by being in better condition than the rest of the car. Too much new stuff would spoil the restoration.

Since those things will eventualy fail, from heat , humidity & time, they will need to be replaced. I would think that it -might- have a deterimental effect if connected to certain circuits.

Is there a contemporary equivalent? Since you can't really test them, it might just be easier to replace. I would bet those old wires are "noisy."

You could just solder the fuel door closed and add on a flip-type cap. I like the ones from Triumph. TR 6.

Isn't that what I was just saying?

Since the speedo and tacho come out the front, you need to make surwethe dash cap doesn't go too far into the holes so you can't get the speedo or tacho out. Otherwise you'll have to cut the face of the dash cap to get those out. Either cut the dash cap in those places or get one that is the right size in the first place. It might cost you a few extra $$$.