TomoHawk

On my car the screws just go through the plastic. No clips or anything, and they hold perfectly and tightly.

You guys must be referring to a different model than I'm thinking of. On a 280Z, the taillight bulb covers are screwed into the finisher panel directly, without any backup clips, and it is attached along the top by barbed rivets.

Since I never brake & change the heater at the same time, it probably won't make a difference if I removethe vacuum bottle. Yes, I had an a/c shop removethe pump. I still have the evaporator in there. I'll get to it one day. Also, I don't think blocking the side vents on the splitter changed the flow- the fan just seems to go faster on a/c mode. Removing the evaporator should make a little difference tho. good thoughts tho. thx

When I removed my a/c components, I just left the wiring intact, althought I did remove the a/c snap-switch and cut the wire on that ( I think it was blue). No difference in the way it works, but I seem to get more air flow from the center vents when in a/c mode. Oh- I blocked off the side outlets from the center splitter, and removed the hoses. I think I will try to plumb the side vents to the footwell air underneath. I'm only interested in fresh air flow from the side vents. I am still ilnterested in why the vacuum "solenoid" are there and how they work. It would be nice to remove those and even the bottle, if possible.

Darn, I think mine is either tarred into place or hardened from age. Either way, I think mine isn't any good. :disappoin

Mine had the factory a/c, but I removed it all. I'm more interested in a control that will click into the detents for the different functions.

It's not how itlooks, but more like where the detents for the different functions are. You get used to the approximate position, but when you move the lever, it should catch in the detent. Otherwise you might not turn on that function. Otherwise, I think the 260s are the same as the 280s- at least the later 260s.

The vinyl-covered panels attach to the inside of the hatch with screws. These screws are like flat-head wood screws with a slight crown on the head. Colors differ0- probably same as the finisher. The plastic panel on the inside covering the taillights is attached along the top with plastic, barbed tivets and screws for the two covers over the two taillights. The salesman may have been referring to the wrong panel.

While I would refer to a dedicated text on the fuel injection system, I would expect the FSM to have a certain amount of detail to those things that are unique to the Datsun- like the door moulding removal & install. Even if it just says to pry it off carefully to remove, and hammer on carefully to install. Same for the TPS switch ( how to adjust). Like Carl says, you gotta have some aptitude for most general stuff. Until I come on some other books, I will need to rely more heavily on what reference material I do have.

the nest wiring diagram I found was the one from Mitchell's. It looks like i will have many books & such for all the things I will need to repair & refurbish & calibrate.

Can you tell us, roughly, what those run? thx

.Finally got my FSM CD today. I looked through it for a while to look up the next two things I'm going to work on and I couldn't find them! 1. how to replace the door upper moulding with the rubber window sea (squeegee)l. I know we discussed this here, but I wanted to get the factory's version. 2. How to get at (replace) the headlamps. My goal there is to clean off the connectors in an attempt to improve the headlights. 3. how to adjust the throttle position sensor, or "throttle control switch". Not an immediate concern, but the engine runs rich, so all info gleaned will help in the end. I did find info on the second, but it didn't mention you had to remove the "inner fender protector." Overall, what I saw looked a lot like what is printed in the Haynes manual. It was not that detailed, not giving a proper description of how to adjust said control, besides having the idle switch closed at idle, and the WOT switch closed when butterfly is at 34*. I'm not too impressed. :disappoin

Got a chance to get some heater controls from a 76 280Z to put on my 78 2808Z, so I can select the different functions without pulling over to look at where the lever is set to. I'm just not sure if they will interchange? thx

That's what the "full warm" and "full cold" marks are for- to see if it's working right. You might be right about the failing cap.

My friend in Tampa (keys) got married last summer. Dress code was Hawaiian shirt, shorts, sandals, swimsuit under the shorts. Wedding cake came in a glass and consisted of rum, & fruit!

I think there are some holes on the pass. side, front of the radiator support, to mount the tank. I wouldn't want it on the driver's side, either. The air cleaner is there & I wouldn't want to suck in any coolant. See attaced pic.

I ordered mine from VB; $50 ea. I suppose you could go to the JY and measure the length of car doors, like the older GM sportscars, and assuming the squee-gees are the same profile, order for that model & put them on your Z. i.e. , the PROFILE is the most important, but you might get away with splicing the length. Best to get a one piece unit that does the whole job, of course.

when I move the leater control lever, it doesn't 'click' into the different positions. I think there's a spring-loaded ball that is supposed to click into some detents in the control frame, right? Mine must be missing. Can you get those & put them in, or do you have to get the whole control system? Maybe bodge a spring-thing in there? thx

I had to get an aftermarket one, because I didn't see the bracket for t he old one. I hate it when they drill holes for those cheap screws! I can hear the rust already forming in those holes

OHIO! "Best location in the nation". "Gateway to the West" "Rock N Roll Capitol of the World" "The Northcoast of the U.S.A." i.e.: the most techologically-advanced and forgotten city in the U.S.A. Not to mention where I live.

I'm waiting for somewbody to make a suggestion for a 280ZX, 300ZX, or *gag* a 350Z...

Mine has some kind of leak at the right bottom corner ofthe gl;arse on the seal-inner edge. I tried to seal it with some silicone, but I don'y think I got it all. Bofy shop guy says I should remove the glass & replace the seal. I think After using the hose treatment, I'll apply a little more silicone, and leave the new seal for later. cheers, or as we say inC-Town, "Yo Baby, Yo Baby, Yo!"

Those chin spoilers scare me. I keep thinking of every time I come out of a gas station or restaurant parking lot, then DOWN the aprom to the street, then ssccccrrrrraappinnngggg the spoiler on the pavement.

Seal go betwen two fixed pieces, like windsheild & frame, 1/4 window & frame, fender & body. weatherstrips go betweeen moveable parts like doors & body, side window & frame.

I just got mine yoday. I still think we need to find the correct replacement rubber. If you are restoring your car, you might not want a replacement that looks out of place by being in better condition than the rest of the car. Too much new stuff would spoil the restoration.