TomoHawk

NBo problems there. I uusually don't get much time away from my gf and her fam damily... they usually have all my time planned for me.

I got some friends down there. One by USF and other in Apollo Beach. I should give you a call next time I go there. As long as your boyfriend don't answer the phone :classic:

is there a good replacement for the "rivets" that hold the arm linkage together? I think I might take mine apart to totally recondition them. In the Spring?

You should try this web page: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/probs.html It tells you all about it.

I had something l ike that happen last summer. Turn signals quit one day after I cleaned the interior. I had a service guy chase it down after I worked on it for a day. It turned out to be one of the connectors that wasn't connected right because of the corrosion. the service guy cleaned the connector some, andput it back together the right way. My headlights & turn signals were netter & brighter after that! We need to work on this connector-corrosion thing and figure out a (sure-fire) way to fix them (connectors) good enough to keep them from smoking, and the car from flaming. It'll increase your insurance value, as well as your own safety and makethe car better overall.

Oh yeah-- check your fuses first. I think those things might be on separate circuits. Then go to eBay or a swap meet & get yourself an owner's manual and a Haynes repair book, then the factory repair manual.

I was going to suggest that you could use a rubber grommet in there (maybe) of the sufficent size. Otherwise, check McMaster.com for bushings that might work for you.

the catalyst light tells you the catalytic converter is running REAL HOT- there's a temperature probe in there. Probably because the engine isn't running right- like it's way lean or something. To help with your electrical problem, you can download a wiring diagram & print it: http://www.angelfire.com/pe2/modeltom/ferrari.html Just above the Gallery link. It's for a 1978 280Z tho. You should probably start by back-tracing the power wires from the radio. I would cut them totally off, restoringthe original car wires, and I would think things should go back to normal. Double check things first, before cutting, in case I might be wrong...

Me too. It means less metal to clean & polish, more room to work, it'll stay cooler & I might even blast the word "Ferrari" on the intake & rocker box! Wait-- If there aren't enough gadets & thingys on the engine, do you think the "Emmissions Police" will get suspicious?

If you tried everything else, then you'll have to cut as much as possible off (leaving the bolts), then get the bolts out, and grind off what's left. Make sure you use plenty of penetrating oil on the bolts. Maybe it'll work on the valve too. Soak overnight. Take your time! You can spend a day or two on the valve, or $200 on a new intake.

Sounds like you didn't let it soak in long enough. It has to come off somewhow, maybe heat the spacer so it expands & pops off itself?

So if you took the EGR tube from the exh. manifold and had fresh air go into it, then it would be OK? I think mine might already be sucking in the hot air from the engine compartment (no EGR tube is there). I would have to drain some coolant to remove the thermal vac. sensor, & then plug that? thx.

I will still be needing a fuel computer eventually with all new injectorwiring...

When I got my engine the look-over at the dealer, he said "you're running rich" (off the scale!?) You can do these things: 1. Replace the AFM (obviously not working) 2. If not the AFM, then replacethe wiring for the engine. 3. If not #2, then replace EVERYTHING. The AFM from the edealer runs $600 installed. No guarantee that it will fix the problem, either. :~(

1. SOAK 2. SOAK 3. SOAK I mean liquid wrench or whatever penetrating potion you like. You could probably wedge the spacer off, then get a vicegrips on the bolts. Just take the time to do it right the first time.

Dude, try the HybridZ .org forum, they got the taurus fan all worked out. Only thing is I think you gotta make sure you got the AMPS to power the thing. While you're at it, install an LTD fan into the heater system... Try this first: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.shtml

While you're at it, maybe you could check all the injectors you have to see if they work, drip, or what? I think you just pull them out, pull off the wire from the coil-distrubutor, and have somebody crank the engine. Spray fuel in a bucket. Don't spray yourself! It'll get UNDER you skin!

I know the Pertronix system won't handle the fuel management, but is there something that will work ALONG WITH the Pertronix system and the stock AFM on a 280Z? May a Pertronix fuel management computer? I think it would be in my best interest to upgrade/replace everything eventually. thx.

I would have to try it and see. Thx for the heads up.

I think the EGR valve just lets some exhaust gases back into the intake, so if you remove the EGR valve, you will have to adjust the AFM, because it will be running rich? Maybe some cool, clean air instead?

My 78 has a header on it and the EGR valve doesn't have the tube on it. I don't know why theEGR valve is still on there. I think I'll take it off and J.B. weld a plate over the hole. Same with the thermal vacuum valve and the baqckpressure transducer valve. I don't know what they do tho.

I think he has carbs on the early 280.

Can you legally remove a catalytic converter? I know the muffler guy asked me if there was one there, because he could NOT remove it legally.