TomoHawk

Haven't looked yet, but are there any basic differences, like everything behind the firewall is reversed, or something?

Higuys, I did all the work myself and the provider is angelfire(dot) com so it is a free service. I redisigned a page or two today, so, IMO, it the site no longer represents the club, just model boating info, like I said in my original post. It will include the events calendars from local organizations, as they are released. I will conclude that the events calendars are NOT the property of the clubs, since the information is posted to the Internet and events are open to (the public). I assume people will claim these things are private to the club, and are NOT to be posted to the Internet. I should include source URLs of info to CYA myself. Greedy, vain people, huh? Sorry about the lawyer comment... was being sarcastic

Thanks, mate. I believe things the same as you, but I'm sure these people will probably "put pressure" on me, maybe even threaten with an expulsion, or black-balling (most likely) to get their way. It's been like that since I started this web site thing. S0-and-so doeasn't like this or that, so they put pressure on me to change things. Some reasonable, some not. Things like "no newsletter." How do other people learn about your club if they can't see what you're club does (where you go, club events). Also "no names" Like 'Tom L.' is inappropriate, and unprofessional because of indetity theft , but I don't believe I've given away any personal details about anybody. In fact, I feel lucky that certain relevant members allowed me to put an email link in there. I even protected these people by hiding email addresses, putting them in submission forms! This all goes back to my theory on the 3 typical vices of the "American citiizen": 1 -- Vanity 2 -- GREED 3 -- Fear In that order. If you don't assert yourself in a massive way in this country, you stepped on all over. It's even worse for people that are disabled, like I am. Apparewntly, I need to be "told" everything that I need to do, how to do it, and when. Then somebody else steps in to do it for me?? I should have studied law in stead of Internet tech. Cheers,

You wear your seat belt, RIGHT??

This is a little off-topic, but related. On my 280Z, I have a square cap in the center area, above the hazard switch. Is that where the fog lamp switch is supposed to go on the 280Z? There's a 'double-ganger 'block-off plate next to the hazard switch; what's that one for? I believe I have the wiring for the fog lamps ( haven't looked recently) but need a switch. thx.

I would like some (opinions) on an issue I'm having with a web site I developed: http://www.angelfire.com/mb2/cmbc/ I developed this site for my hobby club about a year ago, and I was recently 'notified' that I am supposed to destroy the work I have done because the new site is supposed to be "better." I don't knbow what "bettter" mean- maybe more bandwidth. I was told the new site has pictures and video clips. The new address exists, but there's nothing there yet! MY side of this thing is that I put a LOT of effort and time into the design and development, and I don't really want to destroy these things for someone else's vanity, or because, "two sites would be confusing." I believe some people like the stuff I did and use it for reference. I think Confusing means which one would be the "official" site. These guys just want a simple (dot) com address (should be dot-org anyway!) and don't want something else to confuse them. Just a bunch of bumbling politicals, IMO. I don't care which is the official site, as long as I can keep the URL I signed up for, and most of the design of what I have devceloped. My idea is to keep the URL and probably redesign the site some to be something along the same hobby subject. I might even keep several of the pages intact, like an events calendar. Sort of like my own little hobby info repository, but on the net where I can share with others. I even use the site as an example of my skills (though not my best). I'm not one to give in to political pressure, but it really helps to have a logical reason to resist. I suspect these (people) would even revoke your membership just because you "didn't do what THEY want." Probably refund your membership dues to justify things, too. I think my reasons are just and the outcome will benefit all. thx.

I suspect You sare talking about DC circuits, or even AC wiring, where the ground wire can be green, grey, or something else. On all the wiring diagrams I've looked at (240s, 260s & 280s- from different sources) the black wire is ALWAYS a ground wire. No other color(s) were used for ground. I noticed no pattern for power wires, except some had a stripe.

Finding all the ground connections is the hard part! Even though you know the black wire is ground any place on the car. BTW, hobby shops the carry stuff for r/c electric cars should have shrink wrap that will cover a ground strap up to about 2 inches wide. Buy it by the foot. Colors, too.

Covering the braided wire is definitely weatherproof. It's also a beauty thing. I usually notice braided grounds coated with grease (dielectric is best), but any schmear will help prevent corrosion. A good clean ground connection is a must. Gold-coated ground wires?

Got some bad news.... According to the Ohio BMV, you first gotta prove the car was made in the year of the plates you have. Then you gotta buy a set of Historical plates. Then you can only use it on certain occasions, like club events, parades. NO DAILY DRIVING. Then you can get you model year plates (same rules as historical). You don't need any of that of you just want to swap plates for car shows, but could you do that for 'parking lot' shows? It's a public roadway, so I think you gotta have the legal plates. Here's the legal junk for you: Historical rules:http://www.state.oh.us/odps/division/bmv/hstrcal.html Model year rules: http://www.state.oh.us/odps/division/bmv/mdl_yer.html It might be different where you live, but I wouldn'y think it's much different. darn. :disappoin

26th-Z Atleast you don't have a foot on snow in your yard! BTW, I'm planning on coming your way (Appollo Beach) 20. Feb.

If you blasted it clean with walnuts or plastic sand, you might send it back to DMV (or some official place) to get it repainted 'officially?' Nowadays, if a plate is junk, we just trash it & get a new one. I dunno if contemporary plates are worth saving, unless it's got the state bird on it or your college or something.

Some of the plates I saw on eBay were VG, but not new-looking (1962 plates for my GTO) A small ding or two, but it looked good on the screen. Couldn't you just rub out the paint a little? Otherwise you get to go shopping in person to make sue you got a good one.

there's a fuse link for the e.f.i system. Make sure the wires are connected to the injectors. Otherwise, it's something simple, but probablt in there where you can't get at it. Can you remove an injector and see if it sprays when you crank the engine (coil wire off)? Maybe check all 6 injectors, but it could run with only 1.

I looked at some old plates on eBay. They look OK, but might be better off with new paint. Are you allowed to repaint the plates?

Did anybody find the Nuissan Part # for that bearing assy? How hard was it to replace?

I think they should make the rquirements for the collector and antique plates more difficult. I mean you should show that most or all of the car is of the same age, or at least old enough.

You could easily make a digital sound player with parts from Radio Junk (oops, Shack). Ignition/starter juice turns it on and plays the message. I'm not sure they have that chip any more.

You can also get "historical" plates (20 yrs?), but I think you can get different ones for older cars, like 30+yrs. I think I will have to visit the state DMV site...

On the B-J auction I saw some old cars with the license plates that have the same year as the car. How do those guys get those? Do they use those old plates for the road? Might be a cool idea. Something the ricers don't have (yet?)

You could rig up a beeper to the ignition, starter or the seatbelt circuit. Something that will get your attention and remind you to turn things on. zeven though the engine won't start, turning the key should cause beeping, which only you would know why.

Could you maybe make a fake HT wire that has no conductor? It would (injur) your coil, but it would look totally normal! Even harder to dsiagnose.

I have a removeable steering wheel: Grant system. After you remove the wheel, you lock a protective cover over the hub. Any thief would have to first get the locked cover off, then attach a steering wheel with the special keyed handle. I can't think of any way to attach any thing to the hub to steer the car. Even if I could, I wouldn't drive away very fast.

I think my 1978 L28 engine still has the EGR valve, according to the picture in the Haynes book. Does on the fuel-injected L28 engine need this? I could probably take it off, but it's supposed to be connected to a "vacuum switching valve"? I was thinking that I could block off the hole where the EGR valve was. Can I get some enlightenment? thx. At least there's no smog pump.

In another topic, I asked if there was something shorter than the stocck bumper shocks. A combination of bringing the bumpers a little in and down(maybe) with a more compatible shape might be better both weight-wise as well as aerodynamically than just removing them entirely. A little extra thought now could make a BIG difference later. Besides, it's winter in Ohio, and I'm stuck in the house with nothing to do but spew all over the 'Net. I think the police-types would prefer to see something like a bumper on there, assuming they know there was one there originally. Should make the insurance company happier, too, as well as a little CYA for the car's sheetmetal.