TomoHawk

Those guys have an old joke: "How do you make a small fortune in collector cars?" Start with a LARGE ONE.

It's a professional auto auction with big-dollar or famous or antique cars. It's on at 5pm eastern on Speed Channel. The first day they sold cars for 3 hours and topped $1 million easy. You might see ONE car go for that much! Oh yeah- this year they had a contest: you can win 10,000 "Barrett bucks" you can spend on a car! they guy who won already got himself an old mopar muscle-type car.

I'm not suprisee at what that attorney said. I wouldn't be suprised if both those people wanted to sue to the car company or the trire manufacturer! :mad: ST000PIT!! ( with 3 zeros!)

I think I forgot to mention that in Germany, you have to be 18 to get a license, it takes about a year and about US$2000, so it kinda weeds out the cheeper, less serious people who think driving is a right to be easily had.

You can see it on the Speed Channel. Check for times and such. I haven't seen any Zeds, but it hust started,. Maybe there will be a (ot an Enzo) Datsun Z-GTO..

At least now you can relax, knowing you discovered whatever it was thast you forgot to do... It's worse wondering about what you left out, until you find it.

That sounds like a good idea. Someone could collect opinions and additions to one type of succesful conversion, then edit a little and put it into a nice tech article. Either post it here or send it around to the different places and ask them to post it along with their work.

gor the same reason, the death toll on the german Autobahn is significantly less. Even though they are going 200+ kph, their drivers are focused on the driving and not on the radio, DVD, or even cupholders(!) I recently saw a program on Porsches & Audis which showed how only the American ones had cupholders. The german customers requested they be removed! How about that for people serious about driving well. For the same reason, I am against having cupholders, DVD, dashboard computers, even loud radios. Cupholders are only good for holding loose change! Radios should be limited to 5 watts.& 4 inch speakers. Peace, Baby.

Pigs on my end too! I don't one of any politicians that will actually DO the things they say. In their defense, it isn't easy to get new laws passed either. Unless pressed, people are (classic 3 vices): Greedy, vain and fearful and some are: st00pit lazy dishonest From all that, you get the worst thing about certain trivers: "I have a licence! That means I KNOW how to drive safely!" Obviously, too many licensed drivers over-estimatetheir ability. I hope none of them drive Zeds. ....And that's what this topic is all about.

Don't forget a little dab of grease, or it'll wear out straight away or maybe just break off..

I'm sure you can use a temporary shunt (jumper) to connect the blades at the connector to test the circuit. I've done it with the turn signal switches(on my 280Z). If you feel that it would be too much trouble fiddling with the stalk, you might consider replacing the stalk with beefier toggle switches (lighted ones?) I haven't seen the guts of the wiper switch(es), so can't give an opinion about that.

I put a bandaid on my brakes the last time they were bleeding. It makes no difference how competent you are, when you inquire where to put the spacer in question. According to your statement, you would assume one also knows the thickness of the spacer, which is impossible to determine without either trying it yourself, or asking someone else. Have you considered that the caliper might interfere with the wheel, regardless of the backspacing, just because it extends past the face of the rotor? That makes 3 reasons to use the spacer. In that case, An explanation of bleeding the brakes is irrelevent to the reason for having the spacer, and would also be covered in any general service text, so I personally wouldn't bother asking about that. Chill out, man.

I never thought about this before, and I haven't seen it said anywhere, but where does the spacer go? Under the hat (between hub and rotor)? It would be different than putting it between rotor and rim, you know? Can't think of why people will give such a detailed writeup (with pictures even) without telling you where the spacer goes

There are similar articles all over the place. (carcreations. zdriver, HybridZ, HERE). I mist have anout 10 web pages saved with the different ones. I think that some are out of date, or are aimed at a certain goal. We need to pin down the different types of conversions and get everybody to update their sites with the same info: toyota 4 pots with stock solid rotor toyota 4 pots with vented rotor ZX 2 pot calipers with strock/vented rotor And that's just the FRONTS! How many guys or companies are making stuff for the rear conversions??? Maybe just an article listing the different choices, and then you decide? With so many different ways, it's difficult for someone to choose one, or the one that's best for his goal/wallet/car. That's how I feel reight now. Should I collect the (fronts) parts over the winter to do the conversion in spring, or should I hold out until both the fronts need replacing, and which caliper/rotor type should I go for?

I think that window can be adjusted a little for-aft. If you just loosen the screws holding the window, you could just push it back into the corner enough.

ooooooooo.... you're in trouble now.... I say that too, but it probably means something different to everybody. I still think it's a good thing to say, in general (no matter what context).

Orr in my case, a little boy chasing his toy truck down (downhill) the driveway apron into the street. I was on my way back from Saturday-morning-coffee. My casual speed gave me time to see it coming. Maybe all that caffeine perked up my reflexes?

I have a gap of about 3/16 inch between the door frame and the quarter window. Is that what yours is like (but filled with a rubber seal)? I should probably get a rubber seal to fill it. I think that's what was in there, right? It would keep the rain & wind out .

Oh Yeah??? Well, there's a Harbor Freight outlet down the street from me...

I started a thread over at HybridZ on this, claiming that a "cold air intake" was a total crock, based on the thing that I saw the ricers doing. What I saw was this long pipe reaching over the top of the engine, then down a little to a corner next to the radiator( or behind it) to where the filter cone was. To me all this means is that you got a nice long pipe picking up the heat from the top of the engine, and from behind the radiator. Cold? NO. Fresh, yes, but not cxold. You're better off with a regular car off the street; at least they are getting the air from inside the fender, where it's slightly protected from splashing water, and definitely as cold as the air on the outside of the fender. Otherwise, it looks like a snorkel hood, or a cold air box directly under the hood with an NACA scoop, or some kind of ram-air setup is really going to get you fresh, COLD air. Even those simple cold air things for the fuel-injected Zeds is much better, especially if you still use the stock air filter box with the tube that goes across to the other side. If you think of it, those long, chrome "cold air" pipes the ricers use might look nice (to them), but that's about all it does. Just another useless thing marketing people do to get you to buy stuff. (my favorite use less thing besides cold air intakes is the tornado air spinner.

From the pictures I've seen, it looks more like the intake for the carbs are getting more hot air from the radiator than the exhaust, depeding on your speed. In that case, all you wouls need is a snorkel to get air fropm behind the headlight.

In my area, where the "school zone" was set 24/7, was because it's also the local playground, which was donated by the local residents, and wanted it to be as safe as possible, because there are sooo many kids going to/from there all the time. So this is a choice made by the people, instead of bureaucrats or police, etc. Us locals respect that, because it's our kids (even tho I don't have any) .

I disagree with this,partly. I believe that the speed limit also involves the are where through which the road goes. For example, around my area, school zone is 20 mph (24/7 in some places!), business districts are 25 mph, as are residentrial, but regular suburban roads are 35 mph. Rural roads are 45, city highway is 60, and rural highway 65. I read in a car mag once that the speed limit in the remote areas of Arizona is 140 mph... Vehicle noise, vahicle safety or pedestrian safety are a major influence (in my area). the reasons might be different in your area.

You might even be able to hide the switch in plain sight, by putting a label with it that says, " cigar lighter" or something that someone wouldn't relate to anything that would start the engine. You might even couple it with an unlabeled switch so you have a kind of 'combination lock'. Of course, you don't tell people about it. Some even think that it shouldn't be discussed online, because (a thief) might think that's what you are using, and try it on your car.

From all this information, I gather that the 'chin' spoiler and 'air dam' are of the same design, although they might vary in the height. The 'spook' style has little to moderate height and the 'scoop' has moderate to great height, depending on it's use; i.e., one used to scoop air into the radiator would be taller than one ment for simple downforce/air displacement. Overall, the definition seems to be based on what the advertisement Exec wants to sell it as., or to whom he wants to sell the stuff.