TomoHawk

That's what I was thinking. I tried a search, but I used the wrog words and came up with nothing. Now, I just gotta find the place where the fresh-air goes into the kickpanel vents (underneath the dash). thx.

Would it be possible to use a tube to drain the water from the cowl area? As far as I know, the water just drains behind the fender, and this worries me, because It should cause major rusting. Instead the tube would go down past the bottom of the floorpan. thx.

Correct. No worries...

I think that's Katherine Bach, on "Dukes of Hazzard" and Katherine Ross plays Mrs. Cunningham on "Happy Days?"

Most American engines I've seen have the "ground strap" on it. It just gives you a better ground, and should still be good after a long time because it's zinc-plated copper, so it shouldn't corrode much.

how did you find out wqhere those course are held? I think I saw an auto insurance commercial on TV, so I think I might give my insurance man a ring. Cheers, BTW, did they clean up the mess down at the harbour, or just move it all to switzerland?

Whatever material you use, I would suggest something that will let the air pass through, in case there is any moisture accumulation in there. It's so the moisture can evaporate quickly and reduce the possibilityof rust.

I once watched a video about defensive driving. Only thing was that it involved the secret service.

If I remember right, the Maxima brackets require you to remove the wheel hub because the bracket goes all the way around the hub, and use all 4 bolts. Machined versions of the bracket only use 3 bolts, so you can put it on without pulling out the hub.

That's great idea. I'd like to take one too, someday. Sarcastically, I sometimres Ii think these courses just give the drivers a little'over-confidence' in their ability, and they end up thinking they can handle anything. So they drive faster, and take more chances. Until they crash. Just some food for thought.

I would suggest some kind of filler, but not flush to the surface. Leave it a little short, then finish with some vinyl repair stuff- they give you graining patches to match the texture. I thought the wrinkle paint was hard to find?

If you are going to replace the ground wire, I might suggest a braided wire. I'm not sure if it would be appropriate, but it should increase the grounding 'power''. You'll need a screw/bolt on the one end with a crimped on eye connector. some kind of crimped on connector on ther other end (depends what it goes to). I think I would also cover it with shrink-wrap or some other kind of tight insulation to keep the water out.

I have. In my 280Z. I took out all the a/c stuff except the evaporator, and the compressor alone must have weighted 50+ pounds. I think my front came up an inch after I took it out!

Mates, I'm on the north coast U.S.A (Ohio)., and it's winter now, so the roads are covered with snow, ice and other slippery stuff. And I STILL see people doing 45 mph on a 25 or 30 mph street! Then you wonder why they rear-ended a car trying to stop for a stop sign? Same thing on the highway- the sign says "speed LIMIT 60 MPH" but they think it means "safe limit." In the newspapers, EVERY winter, I see a big article trying to point out the dangers of winter driving and why you should slow down and look far ahead of where you ARE, so you can plan your actions. In fact, the article also mentions that when dad conditions exist, you can get cited for driving at the posted limit! I'm thankful for those few, RESPONSIBLE truck drivers out there on the highway, who slow down enough to get all the traffic to slow. I'd rather be a little late than PERMANENTLY LATE.

I think it is agreed that speeding is OK in the right time, place and conditions. I'll throw in my (too sense) and add what my experiences have been: "I don't have to follow any speed limit. My SUV/vette/whatever is SAFE." Yeah, right. American bloody arrogance at its best(worst?) I hear a LOT about American "freedom" since 1990, and you have to conclude straight away that Americans just make up their freedoms as they go. "Freedoms" like: To disobey the speed limit, then complain when they get caught. To toss cigarette butts out the window on the highway/street/grass. To carry a gun, and shoot people who don't drive YOUR way. To basically do what you want, because you are "American." I first think it happens because we ("Americans") get a false sense of security by thinking that our vehicles are safer due to design, or we are better drivers because of our so-called laws, or more experience driving "safely" (if/when we did!) or that the other guy is looking out for us & himself as well. Maybe we think we're all racecar drivers? There's probably more to it; some psychological reason that pleases the id in all of us to BE dangerous. I'm 40, I usually drive within the posted speed limit (except to pass) and generally try to drive safely. I even STOP for stop signs. That doesn't mean I don't have my momentary brain-lapse, which occurs occasionally. Fortunately, I've never done anything to not come out safely. Maybe we should all take a child psychology class to figure out why the kids do it?

Exactly. . Chevrolet was too late to come out with a car like the Zed, so instead they renamed the camaro, "Z28" so people would think it was one!

Is Z28 short for Z280?

I've got the 280Z. I have leaned to look at the speedo more often than my other car (Ford Escort) because I don't 'feel' like I'm going as fast as I am. I've even learned to judge speed via the tacho. (3300 RPM=65 MPH) The high-pitched whine does concern me somewhat tho- I tend to stay under 70MPH so the engine (stays together). My biggest change from the other car is when cornering. I can't just turn the wheel with one finger to go around a tight turn. I need to grab on and turn. Then, it digs in and wham-O, you're turned! On the highway I noticed that there's no problem accelerating. you just push the gas pedal down and you go. The other car will unlock the torque converter, then downshift. I'm not sure, but I think that's because the kickdown solenoid on my Zed isn't working

The SS brake lines from MSA are the exact same things that you get from Earl's. et al, only they just haven't been tested yet. They're not FROM Earl's,as far as I know, just the same stuff. We hashed this over at HybridZ.org and it was concluded, from experiences, that they are OK for street. I think somebody may have suggested you remove the warning tags, (Shhhhhhhh!) but tyhat was not an "official statement" by anyone Am I covered?

Did the MSA brake hoses get the DOT approval? when I got my set they still had the tags that said, "For off-road use ONLY."

Dude, YOu happened to hit a very good reason why I don't like the painless wiring stuff. No problem with you. We need as many different points of view to develop the bestest conclusions.

You should include a 20,000 watt radio. Instead, pint the kicker tube out the back so you'll get an extra 5 mph! No problem with the relocated battery. Just mount that where you want it and run a 1 gauge stranded wire to the battery connection on the painless part.

I believe what roopZ said was incorrect. This is the big issue I have about the painless stuff. The power for the wiper motor AND pump (on the 280Z) goes through the 'wiper moter amplifier' which looks like a relay, and probably contains the electronics for the low/high speeds, so you don't just go from the battery to the wiper motor, although that's what I'd like to try. I believe that there is a direct feed from the fusebox to the wiper motor amp, tho, which is what roopZ suggests, and another wire from the switch to change functions. BTW, I think the 'wiper motor amplifier' might be all or part of the reason that the wipers are so slow (on the 280Z).

You sound like an AD for Painless! Seriously, I doubt the painless system will work in a Z unless you do a LOT of custom stuff because of the Wiper switch, light switch, hazards, etc. I've studied the wiring for over a year now, and it makes sense from the Datsun point of view, and the only new wiring I would put in there is to replace ONLY certain current-carrying wires wit the exact same colors and gauges as the original. TIMO, he painless stuff will only work for new installations on newer, American cars.

I don't think the painless kits would work well in a Z car. It has fuel injection, & electronic ignition, how do you wire that stuff in? You'd have to get new wiring harnesses for those, which there aren't. Then you'd have to figure out where to splice it in. Not so painless now, huh? Unless you want to use an engine from a new chevy. The Painless stuff just doesn't work on the original Z. Zhadman-- I went o the library the other day, and the Mitchell's book for 1978 imports had the complete wiring diagram. The only thing about that was I couldn't get it to lay flat enough to get a really good copy.