TomoHawk

I never really understood that dumb commercial. "Go ahead- I dare you..."

Not funny. I saw 6 auctions on eBay for the battery stay, for 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z.

I was looking around on eBay to see if there was a nicer battery hold-down bar, and found this item, called a Battery Stay Fire Wall Plate It's for the 28Z and says it's OEM stuff, but I've never seen it in any parts diagram or service book. Does anyone really know what is is? ThxZ

wasn't wearing anything with polarizing lenses.

I've seen these "spots" on windows every day, but I've never been able to explain how they got there, or is it an optical illusion? Even the camera has hard time recording the image.

Even the sales from Pink Floyd albums was enough to buy a Ferrari back then, at about $18000. My current car with a 4 cyl. engine and stamped-steel body cost that much new!

Velly Interestink. I pretty much presumed that those stickers were just club logos or race team logos. I never thought of all the other things the stickers could be used for, aside from the arrow pointing to the tow hook. I kinda assumed that class information and car number would be on the roundel, and stuff like the fire extinguisher and electric cutoff switch would be standard things, like to see on modern race cars. I need to look into some of the GCRs for that stuff.

they didn't look anything like a coat of arms to me. It looked more like a decal from a car club, but I couldn't make out what's on them. Here are some examples:

You know those decals that look like shields on the fender of vintage sports cars? I mean the stuff like the Scuderia Ferrari shield on the Ferrari race cars. Is there a formal name for those decals? I noticed that there are other kinds besides the Scuderia Ferrari, but I couldn't see what was on them. Some were round or rectangular or squareish. thxZ

OK, but for a certain form-factor, isn't the pin-out the same for the different manufacturers?

Looking at the photo in #31, it seems that the little 'wing' on the 'interior' side isn't even needed for the S30, so that is the only thing that looks to me like it could possibly interfere with anything at all. Compare to the photo of the Stock Datsun weatherstrip below, you will see the lack of the 'wing.' In that case, I'd say the Mazda or the Z31 weatherstrip is not a good substitute, without some modification.

When you're way out of town, there aren't many car washes, so you have to bring your own stuff.

Mine was $6 at a local clearance store. It performs at the $6 level, which means you need twice as long to do the job.

It depends on the technology involved in the motor. The newest stuff would probably rip your arm off (so-to-speak) but you'd spend over $100 for what's basically a Dustbuster. In fact, most of the cheaper car-vacs LOOK like a Dustbuster. I even considered buying an expensive (Dustbuster) if it had great suction, and converting it for a hose, but there is no such thing. Actually, I'd like to have one for next weekend, or a trip, but it looks like you can only get the good ones online. So I will go with the little shop-vac I have.

I think I'd like to get a different 12Volt car vac. The one I have looks like a little shop vac: This mini vac has the convenience of storing the hose and crevice tool inside, and if you plug the hose into the exhaust port on the top, you can use it to inflate things. My requirements are a 12VDC power source, a hose longer than 24 inches, and a small size. A bagless device and cost of under $40 or $50 (tops) would be nice too, but would depend on the features. Think of it as a vacuum you can take on a car trip. Although that little shop vac works, sort of, I'd like one that is a little fancier, with better suction and a longer hose. After browsing some, I found the Black & Decker pad1200 flex auto vacuum to be of my liking. It's got a 4 ft. hose and some attachments, and it's bagless, so you just unscrtew the drum from the center to empty the dirt. It's about $40. This other mini vac seems like it would work too: The only problem with it is that it needs 120VAC! They don't have a 12VDC version. Does anyone have a favourite car vac that meets the requirements?

The hatch seal shouldn't interfere with the tail lamp cover, as it is just about the same design as the original. Maybe it wasn't installed correctly?

Hardway- If you use that Kia seal, do you still need the smaller outer seal?

I've been looking for alternatives to the push-pin rivets used on the interior panels. So far I found some rivets like those used to fasten the bumper covers on automobiles. they have a center 'button' that you lift to disengage the rivet, and you can push it to re-use it again, until it gets brittle. I found them with a 4mm shank, 12mm shank length, and the head is about 17mm. I didn't have one from the car, so I had to go from memory. Otherwise, the closest thing was some click-lock shank rivets from McMaster-Carr.

That looks like something NASA would use on a space vehicle. What are the long gray things?

Those should be fine if you are wiring the entire car, but all we need for this thread is a pair of 65W/55W dual-filament 12VDC headlamps. And maybe a pair of 55W fog lamps, and a pair of 100W driving lamps.

I was looking at the photo of the Impala relay box I sent to Bruce (CapnO) and I noticed what looks like a big relay using two small sockets. Is that right? If so, then this relay box has a total of seven relays capacity, plus 10 or so fuses in different combinations. If you wanted to borrow a fuse/relay box from another automobile, my choice for the most useful one would be from a '99-2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, It has what looks like the tight footprint, a good number of relays and fuses, and it's already wired for mains power.

Will the Tridon 34 flasher work for the hazard flashers too? Remember the S30 has two flasher units; one for the turn signals, and one for the hazard lamps.

I don't know what a dimmer relay is.

I just got one of those relay mounts from the JY. It was from a 1998 Corolla LE, not the cheaper car. I think it was neat because it even had a cover for the bottom. So all I need to do is to document the relays, the wires, and figure out to re-label the cover.

If you've done that much, the removing the hood should be easy.