TomoHawk

Just make up your own r/b and r/w wires. All you need is a Sharpie marker and some white-out.. Ha ha ha

Sometimes people forget that wire gets THINNER as the gauge number goes up. the reasoning for gauge numbers must be interesting (such as how many fit into a conduit pipe.)

I typed in 99 corolla fuse relay box on ebay, and I saw some photos of the same thing. The auction says it was for a 1998 - 2002 Corolla. The cover was even labeled for 10A headlamp fuses! So we know which car and where to look for it. Happy hunting! Remember to bring the GOOD wire cutters.

It looks like that 4th relay was a different layout?

Bruce- OK, I got that. I would also split or add wires in a better place than at the relay terminals. SteveJ- You mean wire heavier than 10 AWG? "Less than" would mean something like 8 AWG...

Heh.... I will consider looking for them if I go to the JY. But as I usually say, "If someone says it's easy to find 'in any car'..." it's usually impossible to find, unless that person is standing there with you, pointing to it.

Here's a wrench for your idea: Can you figure out how to do this with less wires through the firewall? You're trying to put 4 more wires through a large grommet that is packed full of wires already (on my 280Z for example.) You may split the grommet and lose the seal if you force too many new wires through there.

I'm sure there is a way to make up some clear decals with white lettering to replace the old fuse labels.

If you did want to mount several relays for the lamps, what is there that looks neat and ordered? I thought you might be able to mount some to a piece of aluminium angle in the area where the carbon can used to be. I have a fuse/relay block from an Altima (it was the right size to fit inside the carbon canister mount) but it's a mess of 20ga. wires and the 4-pin relays are odd.

I also got a terminal crimper for the tail lamp connections. My dad will go mad when I tell him I paid only $8 (from China) for the same crimper he paid $50 for at an airshow. Obviously, mine isn't FAA approved... Well, off to NAPA for some more 14gauge wire...

That is a good use for the screw-on snaps. If not below the armrest, then what about forward between the armrest ad the window handle? I will measure that tomorrow.

Yes, I suppose you could make a U-shaped, flat metal frame and stretch some mesh around it, with two holes to fit the armest screws. How much vertical room is there beneath the armrest? Don't forget the door handle is down there. This one uses screws or rivets to attach to a door panel.

Is it possible? the 280Zed doesn't have them in stock form, but Personally, I cold use them so I wouldn't have to lay my race entry tickets, toll ticket, receipts, or any other loose papers on the passenger seat. I would suppose so; you just sew, glue, staple or otherwise attach a bit of vinyl or some flexible material with an elastic band at the top, with enough gathered material so you can put your map in the pocket. Is there such a thing as an add-on pocket, in either cloth/vinyl or rigid plastic? My DD has plastic bins on the doors where I keep some tools or rags/gloves.

Oops, sorry- a typo. Yes, that's the one, but I will need a few more of the 2 pin and 3 pin sets for my needs.

I ordered the DEUTSCH DT KIT #1 WITH CRIMP TOOL BLACK 2,3,4 POS

There are a bunch of YouTube videos for the DT series connectors to educate you.

Can you post a link to the crimper? Is the the fancy crimper for the blade contacts? They seem very affordable. If you are considering purchasing one, remember to buy the pins as they are not included. OH- the solid pins is probably what we'd use, and the crimper for that probably looks like the cheap one you can get about anywhere.

Can you get those big rubber grommets? I'll bet others would be interested to get the bucket sealed up again, after the little rubber seal falls away. I thought my bucket wires were of slightly different sizes too. The main harness wires were definitely heavier, I'd say about 14 gauge, or maybe 12. will that connector fit an H4 bulb too? It would really simplify an H4 upgrade.

I would just use the chisel blade in the Xacto knife. BTW, I didn't take contacts out of the Ford oxygen sensor. I just cut the connector off with a bit of wire on each part. those connectors probably aren't meant to be used more than once- I couldn't get it back together! The pins kept bending.

I took out the headlamp wiring from the buckets to the harness and peeled off the cover. What I found inside was 18 gauge wire! the insulation looked thicker tho. Here is an informative chart comparing wire gauge, current requirement and length.

That would work, and you'll still need to funnel it out the back or under the car.

OK, I can now confirm that the cycleterminal YC2506 6 pin connector does, in fact, fit the taillamp harness connector on my 280Z. I'll be ordering another soon, and probably a 6 or 8 pin connector set to clean up the mess behind the center console. I just wish I could straighten out the rats nest of wiring behind there. Wasn't it all straight runs of wire bundles in the beginning? I suppose I could use the special extraction tool to get the pins out and just transfer them to the new connector shells, after unmessifying the tangles.

I was looking for some Bosch relays on eBoo, and I saw something interesting: "Bosch style" relays and connectors. Would you say they are the same, as "Bosch style" refers to the Bosch pinout, or is it some kind of selling jargon to pass off some inferior product? I would like to trust some quality STST relays for my headlamps, since there is really no way to design in a failsafe.

Do you mean to put a thin line of seam sealer to create some kind of channel? The OP wanted to extend the gutter to the bottom so it drains directly out of the shelf, and the only thing I can think of is to use a bit of square plastic tubing.

I would use a separate circuit for the 100W lamps, but the control would be through the high beam line and one control switch in the cabin.