TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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77 280Z Losing Pressure When Pressing Throttle
TomoHawk replied to REAP_'s topic in Open Discussions
I keep an "emergency box" of stuff, such as a set of new, premium sparkplug wires, cap & rotor, spark plugs, coil, etc. I didn't get it all at once, but bought things with the spare cash. I only use it temporarily to diagnose a problem, or for emergencies, so most of it has only been used for a few minutes. -
77 280Z Losing Pressure When Pressing Throttle
TomoHawk replied to REAP_'s topic in Open Discussions
The first thing I thought of was a bad FPR or its vacuum source not working, causing a lean condition with an open throttle. OH- and stop using the word ISSUE when you are talking about a PROBLEM. Issues and problems are not synonymous. -
here's a new development that might make a bit of a difference. It the festoon-panel lamp, but the panel has several rows that are angled, so it might spread the light more evenly? LUNASEA LIGHTING LLB-189W-21-00 LUNASEA WARM WHITE LED BULB 42MM FESTOON 9
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Rear Panel Surrounding Tail And Reverse Lights
TomoHawk replied to zdude1967's topic in Body & Paint
The trick to getting the rivets to go in is to push the panel(s) tightly to the metal behind it- you don't want any gaps. Then put the pin in the rivet head a bit and carefully get all 4 legs through the whole thing and press the pin in until flush. There has to be a tool to help press the pin in? You need three or four hands to get the stuff right (or some luck) I've been using the handle of a stubby screwdriver. For the price of these rivets, you ought to get a bunch of extra pins with it. I've tried the 4p nail, and it tore up the rivet (it's too hard for the old plastic) and takes too long to make (cut the nail in thirds, grind/sand the ends and burs smooth) So I'm sticking wit the 3mm wood dowel pins; you get 50 or so from a 1m length for only $1.- 14 replies
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I thought CorrosionX would be mentioned.
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I think I will just use the LED bulbs and see how they fare.
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lamp assemblies are very expensive, and DIY lenses are not like OE, but there are probably some bulbs in the drawer.
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I used a length of wood dowel; it's about 1/8 inch/3mm, but I sanded it to *just* fit through the rivet. Don't sand too much or the pin will not do its job. I think I cut them to about 15mm and make the end pointed. If you take care when removing, you can re-use the rivets, and a 1m length of dowel was about $1.
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Wow- a fast reply Blue. Wouldn't a coating reduce the light coming out, or do you mean something else?
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If you had an LED bulb (an 1156) with lotsa SMD chips on it, how would it fair if it was exposed to some moisture, like an occasional splash of rain, or some mist? I have a license plate lamp with the clear lenses missing.
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Like one that says SPEED LIMIT 125?
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I got a photo of the original and Kia weatherstripping too. maybe someone could explain why the Datsun door seal is split and not tubular? I haven't tried it yet, but it looks like it should be interesting to get the Kia one to fit into the hatch frame. Would someone please get a close-up photo of a bit of the Kia seal on the hatch frame?
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General pictures
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From the album: Stuff
The aged factory door seal and the 2003 Kia Sportage door seal. -
I think my point in the previous post would be; should you lose your driving privilege or auto insurance (which is the same thing) because you have a hurt am or leg, and can't use the manual-shift for a while?
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This happened me a couple years ago. I finally figured out that the socket for the glove box bulb was corroded and it probably raised the current on that circuit until the fused burned. there was even some occasional (rare) smoke smell from the socket. I cleaned it up with some deOxit, and there have been no problems since.
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You could just put tape over the camera lens, huh? Can they make a detector for nice-looking brunettes too? Some people really rely on the automatic-shift transmission, like veterans who hurt or lost a leg, or people with one arm hurt, etc. Autonomous cars are a death-trap. It's the same for GPS-driven ones. People can drive much more safely than anything electronically-operated. Some people just decide not to.
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When I was little, my dad bought a 1965 Mercury (a big family car with V-8) for about $500 and he thought it was darned expensive. So yeah, a $4000 car in the early 1970s isn't really that inexpensive, plus I think people seem to be using 2015 dollars to value the cars of the early 1970s.W hat did a Porsche cost back then? What were the high-dollar sportscars of the early 1970s? So, even with today's minimum wage and part-time job could allow you to live well back then (I gotta invent a time machine!) I could live well for years, probably, with what's in my checking account (or bring back a few brand new 240Zs!) and clean up at Z meets (stock class?)
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Well said, grannyknot; professional athletes are the same way- overpaid for doing what you or I could do.. IMO, the only thing that can actually set a car off (by itself) is it's individual history, such as with the 250 "GTO" Ferrari. Some were 'just cars' but some went on to win the LeMans 24 hours once or more.
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Ao it's pints all around, eh, Blue?
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Yeah, Blue, that description sounds like most any car from an F&F movie.
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I won't even get to install it for a month or two, o I'm considering improvements or alternatives. Would you prefer sort-of-random ding-dong of the bliky lamp, or the precise one of the LED flasher?
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It's the engine. That's why people probably think it's a race car I can tell you, most people (90%) will spend significantly more time looking at your engine, then the interior, if they even look at it.
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Having tested the Tridon EP-34A flasher unit, I think it would be fine to control this dinger. You might think that $13 is a little too much to pay for a thing to make your car go ding-dong, but when you consider that you're saving your $100 battery, it might be worth it, especially if you can get one very cheaply from the JY.
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That's the kind of thing we need for the L engines. Not exactly the same, but similar, with a nice intake.
