TomoHawk

I was watching an old 50s racing movie, and i it I saw a guy painting a racecar number on the big white roundel using a large (round) paintbrush and black paint. Is that how they actually did it back then? What kind of paint was used, and how did they remove or change the number for the next race without ruining the white roundels? I did a little Internet research, and found some references that when you go to places like Silverstone, Spa, Targa Florio, they had an official number-painter or signwriter, so all the numbers looked about the same. There was also a few mentions of black "tyre paint" which sounds like black plasti-Dip, which should be removeable. The white roundel should not be a big deal today on a vintage sportscar, as it would be (to police) on a modern tuner. So you could paint the roundels on, and either paint the number or apply adhesive ones as needed. If there is official jargon for this, please inform me, and thanks for the discussion.

I just remember helping my neighbor mount a wink mirror in his Porsche 911. It was not very easy. BTW- nice avatar, Stephen.

No, it's not a wide mirror, or one of those 4-pane racing mirrors. An autobahn mirror is what you'd call a blind-spot mirror that attaches to the back-side of the windscreen near the roof pillar so you can see cars as they are next to you, in a similar way to the convex "bubble" mirrors. I couldn't find one until I posted the question, then I found a lot of information about it. Maybe I forgot to spell Autobahn with an H. I have a 4-pane racing mirror, but you can't mount it in the S30 without drilling holes in the roof. the roof is too low to see out the back with one, anyway.

The armrest holes measure 7 3/4 inches on mine. I thought the 240Z had a pull strap too? I would like to see if you can leave the arm rest off.

The drill press will make it fitty Or I will just go see what's in my box of stainless steel scraps, and a bit of leather.

I think the armrests on the 78 aren't that nice, and I like a minimal amount of stuff, so I saw an auction for a door pull on eBay described as "1970 - 1978" so I wondered if it would actually fit on my 1978. I can get a measurement of the distance between the 2 main mounting screws if anyone can do the same on a 240Z door pull. After that all you'd haft to do is to cover the third hole.

CREE LEDs? What are those? I think they are some kind of high-efficiency, brighter LED than you could get before now? I saw some products for cars (spots or off-road lamps mostly) but most of it was for household use. Super-bright LED spots sounds like a nice idea.

Before you try the cerium oxide, I'd suggest you get yourself a tube of Mothers water spot remover. I use on my cars in the Spring and mid-summer to get the last bit of gunk out of the glass (especially the front) and get it crystal-clear again. Cerium oxide and any other powders are what I'd call destructive, so I'd recommend against it unless you need to remove some ripples or pits. Colgate tooth powder is about the same thing as the detergent you put in your dishwasher, but a slightly finer grind.

It looks nice. It looks like a good solution to cracks as well as those nasty reflections.

I know there is at least one thread about this topic.

I mean the hatch, not the rear side door. This one looks like it might do the whole S30 hatch with some left over. But thanks for the tip about the compressed seal. It makes you wonder how much of the time the hatch stays closed relative to the other doors, and unless you're a 'soccer-mom' that shops often, it might not get used as much as the driver's door.And since it's made of modern materials, I would expect it to be fully-functional after being in use for only a few years (less than 40....)

Did you get a look at the back door seal on those vehicles, or did they not have one?

I probably need three sets for both doors and the hatch, correct? Will you get a discount of some kind, or a better overall cost for the larger quantity purchase?

There is probably a limit to how far the protect will "reach" to the extents of the vehicle. I think probably as far as you can have an electrical continuity., so you could, in either case, connect everything together with wires, in case there are insulating materials involved.

I remember it was on Two guys Garage and Truck U on the same day....?

Does anyone have one of those Autobahn mirrors on any vehicle? I have a little bubble mirror on the driver's side, but it still leaves a small blind spot. It most likely helps to see into the blind spots on the side, but it still seems to be getting tougher to drive safely lately with all the vehicles out there and higher speed limits on the highways.

Instead of the sacrificial anodes, have you considered the Counteract electronic system? http://www.counteractrust.com/counteract.htm

How tall is that antenna? Do you get a good range with it? I get about 70-80 miles on the new car (for FM radio) and about the same on the Zed, on a good day. I would mount it in place of the factory antenna. Would you mind sharing the make & model of the antenna?

Yeah, and I think those peak numbers are over a small RPM range too, and a dyno pull lasts only a few seconds, so do you really get relatable information? The dyno test is unlike a drive up a mountain or down a curvy racetrack. Maybe you could try pulling that 10,000 LB boat instead of a 10-second dyno test. I like mine at the cruising range (or just a little higher, about 2,700-3,200 RPM) also. It's nice to be On the freeway and be able to get around slow-moving traffic or a big truck quickly, then back to a nice 60 MPH cruise. We should get Superlen to tell us about the performance increases and longevity of the increases.

The write-up BRAAP did was pretty good and thorough, but it basically says what I wrote in post #14. It is stil worth reading, though.

The bottleneck is still in the small intake runners and the small ports & valves on the cylinder head. You won't be getting any improvements on the L28 engine until a performance cylinder head and intake is designed and produced.

the check valve for the brake booster is held by what looks like a black donut on the firewall above the brake booster. follow the vacuum hose to the donut. I dunno how you check the leakdown of the brake booster, but I think mine does leak.

I thought only pushrod engines had solid lifters. How hoes the P90 cylinder head use lifters?

There you go- if Grannyknot says so, you can bank on it!

If they want $14.60 for a part that will cost $60 in the U.S. then maybe it's a good deal. 13 Euro 1723 Yen 15745 Won Maybe it even tells the truth of those Korean vehicles- that it only cost 1/3 to make it and 2/3 is profit?