TomoHawk

here's another idea: This uy added a second transistor to the Esake effect circuit, and "by adding a second transistor to make a latch when combined with the negative-resistance transistor, I could get a brighter, longer flash." http://cappels.org/dproj/simplest_LED_flasher/Simplest_LED_Flasher_Circuit.html

It looks like an idea to try. Everything except the hot glue- I use GOOP for that.

a 70/30 cycle should be fine, but IMO an 80/20 cycle would be better, long as it starts with the ding. the weird thing is that you see a bunch of circuits on the Internet, with videos of flashing LEDs, but they don't show where the load goes.

Now I'm confused. All I really need is to get a square wave of 12V, with a bit of current. Could you get it to flip-flop slowly enough? (1Hz)

For something as big as a seat rail, I'd use the electrolytic rust removal method.EvapoRust is expensive and I only use it for small parts.

Thanks Cap'n O I'd have to make a PCB for the multivibrator, but I could include a trimpot. The blinky light would be glued right to the case. I will see if the CVS still has them on Saturday. for the second idea, the transistor would only need to take it for a few seconds, because the dinger is for the headlamp warning, and arse soon as you hear it, you need to turn of the headlamps or close the door. BTW- the dinger is from a new Hyundai, but it's the same thing, two metal bars that are tapped by a solenoid hammer.

Here's one for Cap'N O- I have a dinger from a 280ZX, but it doesn't ding-dong all by itself. It's basically a tiny doorbell, so it only goes ding-dong if you pulse the electric power. My goal is to power it, like you would a small bulb flasher. There is to be a minimum of parts (2 or 3.) My two ideas so far were to use a blinking Christmas tree bulb (Circuit 1) and just run the 12V through it. It should work, but the ding-dong rate should be a little slow. The other idea uses a flashing LED (Circuit 2) to control a transistor, so the bell gets enough current. I had some graphics prepared, but I'm still figuring out how to get one into a message.

I prefer to spend my money on the things that make the car safe, reliable, and fuel-efficient, first. If there is any left over, it can be saved for the bling.

You can have my '78 tail lamps when I get the car back from the paint shop (for their fair value.)

I tried soaking a large part in sections once. While one half was de-rusting, the other, already de-rusted, started rusting! It is better to treat the whole thing at once.

I found an eBay auction for a set of rechromed tail lamp trim pieces and it makes you wonder if it's worth the price, would you just keep what you have, or would you rechrome your own trim pieces?

If I had to pull the brake handle back that far, I would very much be at risk of giving myself a whack in the face!

I have used the electrolytic rust removal for things that the EvapoRust didn't get off- things with rust you can't sand off with steel wool, but sessions of Evaporust and steel wool may get you to a clean surface in this case.

Dar. Bullet connector were mentioned, but their not like the AMP ones on the 280Z.

I wonder sometimes about how MUCH light you can get out of the 7 inch headlamps, and instead of adding a pair of spots or extra driving lamps, you could just turn on both filaments (low &high) of the headlamps using a set of relays. Could you just add a shunt to the wiring so both filaments are powered when you hit the high beams? I think you'd probably be at the limit of the wiring (65W + 55W= 120W or 10 amps each) plus an amp or two to make up for the old wires. Then you'd get both the wider beam with the longer high beams.

I usually don't use polyurethane clear, because I've never had any that didn't get yellow after a while.

There is a good photo of the weatherstrip profile in Post #17, and zKars had some photos showing the welting in Post #36, but is there a close-up photo of the welting? How would it compare to the Datsun OEM weatherstrip? Also, will the welting handle some paint?

I did the same thing to my ash tray, and the result was about the same. They have some nice paints lately, no? I keep quarters in mine tho, so the finish did not stay as nice as when it was just finished- there are some scars from the coins. I might consider a baked-on chrome paint/coating I used on the engine parts. Will (HLS30.com) made an attempt at getting the perfect, durable finish on an ashtray, but I don't remember what the final result was.

My car has a plastic trim piece that goes around the door opening, and is the colour of the interior. The door seal is glued to that plastic part. If you used the Sportage seal, you'll see the black rubber from the inside, right? So is that seal made of a rubber than be painted to match the interior? That could affect you score at a Z meet, if someone saw black rubber where there was a colored plastic molding.

I made a trip to a vintage-style racing event last summer, and I mentioned it to Mr. Singer at ZCCM. He asked me to send him a writeup, and It'll be in the Jan issue. If you get the hardcopy, look for it, and if you get the digital preview, you can read it there too. I like using my 30 inch screen,so it's pretty much the actual size, I'll look forward to getting my hardcopy too; paper doesn't crash and go blank like a hard drive... Another surprise I noticed was the magazine cover. As for the rest of you people, if you make a trip or go to an event, take notes and HD photos, and you too can be published in ZCCM! ZCCM is literally the Z CAR CLUB magazine, so help Mr Singer fill the pages with all your Z-related adventures, tech, and other stuff that you're proud to show others. Thanks, Art Singer for including my writeup.

Yeaj, ZKars has some good ideas and talent. From what he said, I think they may have a special tool to properly and consistently form the corner.

Somebody earlier in this thread mentioned (post 16) that the FRONT doors had a longer piece, so keep that in mind. dkw- Your link in post #108 redirects to an industrial equipment supplier, you might want to correct the address.

I did again, thanks, and it comes up mostly CZC! There's nothing new since my last search. There's one or two HybridZ threads and one from Zcar.com. They give the basic "I used Sportage seals, and they work great" spiel, but no specifics. I think there is enough information now to make a write-up of this important stuff.