TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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From the album: Stuff
Circuit 1 uses a 110V flashing Christmas tree bulb to pulse a Hyundai 'ding-dong' chime work. Circuit 2 just flashes the LED, and was another idea to make the chime work, as it's quite possible the bulb in Circuit 1 may burn out quickly. -
I prefer to spend my money on the things that make the car safe, reliable, and fuel-efficient, first. If there is any left over, it can be saved for the bling.
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You can have my '78 tail lamps when I get the car back from the paint shop (for their fair value.)
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I tried soaking a large part in sections once. While one half was de-rusting, the other, already de-rusted, started rusting! It is better to treat the whole thing at once.
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I found an eBay auction for a set of rechromed tail lamp trim pieces and it makes you wonder if it's worth the price, would you just keep what you have, or would you rechrome your own trim pieces?
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If I had to pull the brake handle back that far, I would very much be at risk of giving myself a whack in the face!
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I have used the electrolytic rust removal for things that the EvapoRust didn't get off- things with rust you can't sand off with steel wool, but sessions of Evaporust and steel wool may get you to a clean surface in this case.
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Dar. Bullet connector were mentioned, but their not like the AMP ones on the 280Z.
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I wonder sometimes about how MUCH light you can get out of the 7 inch headlamps, and instead of adding a pair of spots or extra driving lamps, you could just turn on both filaments (low &high) of the headlamps using a set of relays. Could you just add a shunt to the wiring so both filaments are powered when you hit the high beams? I think you'd probably be at the limit of the wiring (65W + 55W= 120W or 10 amps each) plus an amp or two to make up for the old wires. Then you'd get both the wider beam with the longer high beams.
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I usually don't use polyurethane clear, because I've never had any that didn't get yellow after a while.
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My car is pictured, top-right. -
There is a good photo of the weatherstrip profile in Post #17, and zKars had some photos showing the welting in Post #36, but is there a close-up photo of the welting? How would it compare to the Datsun OEM weatherstrip? Also, will the welting handle some paint?
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I did the same thing to my ash tray, and the result was about the same. They have some nice paints lately, no? I keep quarters in mine tho, so the finish did not stay as nice as when it was just finished- there are some scars from the coins. I might consider a baked-on chrome paint/coating I used on the engine parts. Will (HLS30.com) made an attempt at getting the perfect, durable finish on an ashtray, but I don't remember what the final result was.
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My car has a plastic trim piece that goes around the door opening, and is the colour of the interior. The door seal is glued to that plastic part. If you used the Sportage seal, you'll see the black rubber from the inside, right? So is that seal made of a rubber than be painted to match the interior? That could affect you score at a Z meet, if someone saw black rubber where there was a colored plastic molding.
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I made a trip to a vintage-style racing event last summer, and I mentioned it to Mr. Singer at ZCCM. He asked me to send him a writeup, and It'll be in the Jan issue. If you get the hardcopy, look for it, and if you get the digital preview, you can read it there too. I like using my 30 inch screen,so it's pretty much the actual size, I'll look forward to getting my hardcopy too; paper doesn't crash and go blank like a hard drive... Another surprise I noticed was the magazine cover. As for the rest of you people, if you make a trip or go to an event, take notes and HD photos, and you too can be published in ZCCM! ZCCM is literally the Z CAR CLUB magazine, so help Mr Singer fill the pages with all your Z-related adventures, tech, and other stuff that you're proud to show others. Thanks, Art Singer for including my writeup.
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Yeaj, ZKars has some good ideas and talent. From what he said, I think they may have a special tool to properly and consistently form the corner.
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Somebody earlier in this thread mentioned (post 16) that the FRONT doors had a longer piece, so keep that in mind. dkw- Your link in post #108 redirects to an industrial equipment supplier, you might want to correct the address.
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I did again, thanks, and it comes up mostly CZC! There's nothing new since my last search. There's one or two HybridZ threads and one from Zcar.com. They give the basic "I used Sportage seals, and they work great" spiel, but no specifics. I think there is enough information now to make a write-up of this important stuff.
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Finishing up on the bodywork
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From the album: Bodywork 2015
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From the album: Bodywork 2015
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From the album: Bodywork 2015
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From the album: Bodywork 2015
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From the album: Bodywork 2015
body parts ar -
To replace the weatherstrips on one S30, would it be better to buy two door weatherstrips and one hatch, or would two hatch strips take care of all three doors? In short, what combination works best with the least waste? I don't know the lengths, so I'll leave it up to those who do know.
