TomoHawk

After a brief Internet search, I haven't found an obvious example of period-correct pedal covers. May I ask or some help?

I'm considering moving my driving lamps from the provided holes to ones drilled slightly closer to the ends. The provided holes for the driving lamps are right behind the bumper over-riders, and the rubber projects down and blocks the upper half of the lamp and light. Good idea?

I"m not in favor of putting blingy things on the pedals. Plus, I'd usually say that pedals are don't do anything for "performance" but the things do wear out eventually, so you could put on something that would decrease the wear or weat less. What I'd ask you guys is can you get ones that are more period-correct? Like putting the footy gas pedal on a dune buggy.. As for driving with boots on, I've tried it on rare occasions, and I have found that, at least on my DD car, the gas pedal is much too close to the brake pedal, so it's dangerous to drive like that. The last time I had boots in my car in the winter, I kept them in the boot (ha ha) and drove with the street shoes, then changed into the boots at the destination.

I wish the guages on my car were that easy to read at night

The foam material is the correct thing for the tail lamps, and the foam I used will last longer than what was originally provided on the car. O-rings require a groove or a channel to get a proper seal, so they will not work in this case.

While cleaning the connections and sockets for the tail lamps, I noticed that the foam gaskets were worn out, dried up, crumbly, or missing, so I decided to make some new ones. The hardware store didn't have any closed-cell foam that is about 5mm thick, so I browsed the craft store, and found a sheet of 3mm foam. I cut a strip the width of the gasket diameter, and glued it using spray glue to make a 6mm double-layer. I tried to cut one gasket by hand using a sharp knife and scissors, but it didn't look right, so I got a brass pipe fitting from the home improvement store that has the same diameter as the gasket I.D. It was slightly too large, so I created a cutting edge by careful grinding and sanding. The brass cutter was then used to cut the inside hole of the gasket, and the outer shape was cut using scissors. The gasket, being slightly thicker than the original, fit snugly around the socket, and was not difficult to install. I will use a wider strip for the next set of gaskets I make, so I can get an even width of the ring. I think I will use the same foam to create gaskets for other lamps, like the front turn signals, and probably some other uses within the vehicle. ThxZ

I used DeOxit on the connectors for the tail lamps and bulb sockets, then I made some gaskets for the taillamp bulbs, and installed them.

Do the same with your oil filter to see was was coming out of the engine too.

It looks nice. I'm surprised that he installed the muffler flat-ways. None of the exhaust guys I know will do that because they all claim it's too close to the fuel tank, and the heat will boil the fuel.

WAR, LEDs are out of order on a car from 1978 and they are just too much trouble.

I already have both fan belts in my travel tub.

What is it with the "G" owners, that they think they own a Z car?? Infinity makes luxury sedans! (like Lincoln or Cadillac.) They would laugh me out of the parking lot if I tried to get my mom's Lincoln into a Mustang meet... Anyway, I finished my valve cover racer for next week's competition, and I just need to finish the fancy cardboard box with some foam inserts.

OK.... So I've got my new tool r filled with some important tools to fix things while on the road, and even a (deodorant case) with some spare bulbs. I eve managed to use the straps on the bag to tie it to the spare wheel. I still think there is a need for an improved bag for the jack tools, so I found a Tandy leather store nearby, and I will construct a new bag for the jack tools.

Higuys, I'm updating my list of replacements, and the only bulbs I can't find are the ones in the defroster/hazard/seatbelt indicators. Is there a bulb number for those? From the look of the old bulb, it seems like an LED would fit just right.

I bought one of those oil drain containers with the screw-on cover for the coolant, but the darn thing won't fit under the car! If I cut off the threaded neck, it would probably fit, but I'd still have to transfer the old oil to another jug.

I would do that if I had a lift or a gravel floor. The cooling system is 10L, so that is a large container, unless you can put the hose back on when your small container is full. I will see if it can be done.

The buzzer is an important safety feature. It's supposed to remind you to fasten the seatbelt. It also buzzes if you leave the key in and open the driver's door. If you feel it is not to your liking, you should consider changing it to a buzzer or dinger with a sound that you like, but it should not be disabled or removed. Siteunseen- You can still start the engine without waiting for the buzzer to stop. I usually do that, and by the time the engine starts and idles down the buzzing is done. BTW- if you find a dinger wit has nice sound, please let us know, there are many uses for those.

In the truck? Or under the seat in the car? It's where you left them.

If you didn't recognize the lines, you wouldn't know it was an S30. The description even states that the lamps, and even the antenna were removed. The car is now unsafe to drive at nigh. I think those tiny pedals make it even more unsafe to drive.

I'll bet it's got imperial threads, instead of the correct metric.

Exactly. Those ears stick down so far the thing broke off. why can't they make the valve of a better plastic , or carbon, (teflon?) and have smaller lobes like an air cleaner wing nut? Well, I did want to drain it anyway...

I wanted to drain the coolant out of the engine and replace it with water + waterWetter, but when I looked for the drain petcock, it was missing. It has broken off. So I call the friendly local radiator shop, and he says a new radiator takes two days to install! I asked why you can't just replace the plug, and he says "maybe they can drill it out." Is there a good way to remove the broken part of the radiator drain petcock, and install a new one? I think the local AP has them (it has 10 x 1.25 threads.) I probably could just disconnect the lower hose, but I'd make a mess of the floor, probably, or can you inch it off and get a controlled leak? I don't think it's loosing any coolant. BTW, is it possible to protect the petcock so it doesn't get broken again? It probably broke when driving in some grass. thxZ

I was studying this diagram to get an idea why my brake lamp isn't working lately, and it led me to think that you could activate other stuff with the engine. It's on page BE-34 of the FSM. Brake Lamp Warning System, 1978 280Z

All you'll need is a power feed to a relay coil that is grounded inside the cabin by a switch. From that you can power other more demanding devices.

That wouldn't work. You need to stay away from anything that is switched by the key, and only allow things to be energized or powered when the engine is running. It is too easy to leave the key in and switched on.