TomoHawk

I put a long bolt into one of the holes that the canister strap was bolted to, and plugged the vent hose onto that, so the hose at least connects to something, and it's plugged.

I was able to put on the new horn button, which has a little decoration added. The wood rim needs a few more applications of Tung Oil, IMO. Does anyone have experience with Tung Oil?

That's just Ford GT, Julio, but we know what you mean. The GT40 was offered up to 1969, so Datsun then offered another sporty car for racing.

I would bet the trace for a points ignition wouldn't be so nice

I used the paint reducer, and it worked fairly well. It got most of the paint off, to the point where I could see the texture of everything. I didn't get all the paint off because the odor from the reducer was almost over-coming. I would not want to do this to the entire interior of the car! After I repainted the panel, the texture was very noticeable and this time, and none of the little dandelion 'parachutes' got stuck to the paint. I only need to replace the plastic moisture layer and re-install the panel. I did mask off the wood-grained strip, so the previously chromed parts only need refinishing.

"aircraft stripper" would significantly and permanently damage the vinyl.

I think I have some of those liquids. I tried a little brake cleaner, and all I got was very clean paint

I would like to remove what looks like several coats of vinyl paint from some door panels, so they can be repainted with a single layer of paint. Has anyone discovered a good way to remove the paint without harming the texture of the substrate?

Yeah, Nissan is making a lot of fake race cars lately, but they call them names like 370Z.

the races were very good this year. the weather was sunny the whole time, except for a short shower before the last race Sunday. I saw a few tall skinny chicks, like Conedodger posted about, but lately, you see mostly vintage chicks at vintage races.

He must have hot something; the bumpers fell off...

The picture on the literature had a U shaped tube in it. The description says the kit "includes the aluminum tube, 2" hose, 3 clamps, instructions, and a list of materials and commercial suppliers.

I received some literature from a place called Michael's automotive in IL that's was about a Vapor Line Adapter Kit for the S30. Has anyone heard of it or this adapter? It doesn't say much, but a phone number and that the representative will be at the ZFest. I have no idea what it's even for... thxZ

Heating and shaping the cap actually is not a hard thing to do, but it takes a LOT of time and patience.

I have to leave mine loose because I need to change bulb in the gauges about once a year. Maybe somebody will figure out how to get around that problem without spending $1500. The other two problems I still have is that the cap will not go into the center gauge holes and meet the gauge face properly. Plus the forward edge warped where the VIN is, and does not go far enough to tuck under the defroster panel. No matter how you push in it, the forward edge is too short, an there an ugly gap the whole length across. I end up getting big point hits for the awful fit of the cap. I also used a small drum sander on the Dremel to adjust the holes for the dimmer and odometer knobs. I think I would not recommend any vinyl paint, unless it is satin or flat black, because the gloss paint I used causes lots of reflections in the sun. IMO, using silicone is only recommended because if you use it in the middle, it might soften the plastic a little and leave a horrible dent.

I saw a few ads for the (G-Force?) performance "chip" but it's just a fancy resistor that you connect to the air flow sensor to lean the mixture. You don't even connect it to the controller board, and it's not even a chip, in the sense of an ePROM, or even DIP integrated circuit.

Those are the kind of scenes you DON'T get to see on TV...

The earlier ones had three studs inside. I wonder what it was for?

It seems there are two types of the distribution junction shell. This first type is somewhat rectangular, and the top is simply attached with screws. These are only available from Mr. reddat... the second, like I have, is a pentagonal shape, and the top is hinged and snaps on.

That i the correct part. Did any other vehicle use something like it; especially a modern one? There are no Zeds in junkyards for 1,200 miles

Higuys, The cover for my distributor (it's a 1978 L28E, and the junction is on the left side near the radiator support) has come off at the hinge point, and I have not thought of a good way to re-attach it, yet. FYI, the cover is plastic, and has a clamshell design, and contains two studs where the distributor harness connects to the engine bay harness. After an engine repair, the top cover fell off. So far I thought of using strips of rubber, Velcro, and aluminum from a soda can, using GOOP to attach it to the bottom shell. Any ideas? eBay has no auctions for the correct part, so replacing it is not appropriate.

Yeah, those first races in Indianapolis was more of a weekend festival than just a day of racing, as it took the whole day to complete the distance.

I like the first line of that document. It's really different than the dry stuff you get today. I like this thread too. It's much more interesting than "Boobs" and I hope it's more prolific than Boobs.

Remember to use anti-seize. Regular for most things, and copper for cylinder heads and exhaust parts.

You're not just letting the stuff fall to the ground when you flush it? It sounds like you end up with gallons of contaminated water to get rid of.