TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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In my case, the sticking is in the large torsion bar bearing on the firewall. I don't think it can be disassembled, polished, or repaired.
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I starts when the engine starts, and the pitch varies with engine RPM... And you get it ALL the time. The good news is I don't hear the noise in the new car.
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If I can unscrew the ends, then all I would need is new ends.
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The current drums are painted with a light-grey caliper paint. I used a scotchbrite wheel to "polish" them first. The finish is fairly smooth, and I think I could have buffed them as well. I read about iron drums in the JTR conversion book. They claimed that Datsun 510 (IIRC) iron drums give better breaking because they don't "deform" when breaking, like the aluminum ones will.
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Yes, they are the "OEM style" drums. I might get the iron drums one day, if they are available, and keep them for the future.
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I just got a new set of drums from Arizona Z. I'd like to polish them, as they are visible rough the wheels, to look as nice as the front rotors.
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That's correct, but I didn't think they would sell for $30-40 on eBay.
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I took off the link from the torsion rod to the throttle, and I noticed it doesn't have threads! Is that correct? it is just a fixed-length rod that pushes down on the throttle arm, which has its own return spring, so I'd say it doesn't need to be threaded, but I wanted to make it longer to help with the throttle sticking partly open.
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Can you provide any specific information? Maybe it's this one, Resistor Spark Plug Cap: https://www.amazon.com/NGK-LB05FP-Resistor-Spark-Plug/dp/B0018JXPWM Or this one: https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/ngk-spark-plug-resistor-covers/spark-plug-boot-ends-degrees/90-degrees
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After a 1200 mile trip, and most of it was at 3300 RPM, I can tell you the module worked well. But, I'm getting a lot of RF noise on my CB radio. I have NGK resistor spark plugs, and the NGK wires from MSA. I kept the wires from the module to the coil fairly short, and there is a condensor on the coil. Is there anything else you can do? I was thinking maybe I could disconnect the wires that go to the ignition box connector near the fusebox.
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Besides a big screwdriver, is there a proper tool for disconnecting those ball-ends? the joing looks like a balljoint, so I suppose the tool looks like a wedged-fork.
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I contacted Midland Radio customer support to see if they had any left for sale, and they sent me one for free. It might be the last one they have. It works fine, but I get so much RFI from the engine that I couldn't use the CB radio to communicate anyway. My friends in the caravan could hear me, but I couldn't hear them.
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The L28 plastic OE joints look like they might dry out and crack one day, so could you replace them with metal ones? Also, can you get new swivels for the firewall ?
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That bottle is just a vacum reservoir, which stores some vacuum so you can change the vent function while you are at low revs or low vacuum.
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How about this... I plugged in my CB radio (a Cobra 75 WX ST, with the little antenna connector box) and now I'm picking up some RF noise and a little whine. Granted, there are about 6 short wires from the distributor junction and from the module to the coil, thee sholdn't be much noise, unless those NGK wires and recommended NGK spark plugs aren't really the best combination? I have a condenser on the coil (-) pole, and one on the alternator. Could there be anything else to check? What's the correct way to add a condenser to the alternator? Does the placement of the CB antenna (on the roof at the back) increase or reduce TF noise? I have a second CB radio, a Midland 75-822, that has a different adapter, so I will try that in the morning. I'll be going to Springfield, IL. next Thursday for a car show.
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I have a Midland 75-822 CB radio and I would like to get the adapter to use it in the car. The part is #18-821. I know people here have bought them, and maybe there are some surplus adapters. The dry cell battery box is available, and I suppose you could solder some wires into it to plug into a 12V source, but you still need the antenna connection, unless you rely on the stubby antenna which probably won't nave much range, but at least better than an FRS radio. ThxZ
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That's what I did: cleaned out the old "ungrease" polished off the burrs and reassembled with good grease. It helped some. I mentioned before- that FastWoman got hers to work normally by cleaing out the old grease from inside the motor case, and cleaning the internal electrical contacts.
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My wiper linkages have been cleaned to death, and I lubricate (with DeOxit and light oil) everything regularly, especially after driving in the rain, so I'm sure that's not why its swiping slowly. Sarah (FastWoman) mentioned to me that she was successfully able to restore the speed of her wiper motor by jut cleaning the internals and the power contacts. It makes sense, but the insides are very complicated, IMO.
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Mine looks like some water got in the box as well. I should test the power transistor to see if it's still good- I suspect it's degraded or just dead. If that's the case, I'd say the wiper amp suffers from the same problem, which wold explain the slow wipers. Then I'd take a look inside to see if you could build a better one with modern parts. BTW- where can you get a NEW wiper amp unit?
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I don't really understand what you mean by 'it'll come back again some time in the future,' Bruce. I think it was a good thing to replace the factory ignition module. The engine seems to run more smoothly, and I've gone about 45 miles in the suburbs with the gas gauge needle moving only slightly, when, for the same driving with the old setup, I would've used about 1/8 tank. I'll have more data after next weekend, when I will be going about 400 miles. I'm also still interested in adding a remote relay or a kill switch to the 12V feed coil. It's probably better than putting a SPST switch on the distributor sensor wires- I think that's what killed the old ignition module, even though it was missing some anyway. You could easily disguise a SPST switch as a gauge lighting dimmer knob...
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I can't explain it, but the rev counter started working after I taped up the unused connectors. The thing only needs some adjustments and a tune.
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I still plan to put on a kill switch for the new module. Would you prefer to break te switched 12V line, or the connection from the + pole on the coil to the B terminal on the module? I think the first location would be preferred, as that is what occurs when you turn onn the keyswitch. I have a remote 10A relay that would be ideal for that.
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It doesn't make sense, but since the engine was operating (smoothly) I drove around the block to test it a little, then put the cover back onto the ECU, taped up the un-used ring terminals from the distributor junction block, and the rev counter started working. It still needs a proper tuner some adjustments, but I put about 12 miles on it today.
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I did install a generic GM HEI ignition module, and it works fine; the engine runs smoothly without backfires, but the rev counter is not responding, so I'll look into why that is so. If this new ignition module works out, I'll consider the performance Pertronix one, and put the generic one in my spares kit. Would you say all the trouble is worth the $400 for a replacement OE ignition box?
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Yes, the first thing I did was to unbolt and unplug the old ignition box. It's sitting here on my desk. Then I traced the blue wire from the - side of the coil to pin #1 on the ECU, as well as checking the other important things (grounds and power) according to the 280Z EFI handbook. Then I connected the HEI module. So right now, the tach needle isn't moving at all. Before, it would twitch a small bit while cranking. I thought there was a second (black) wire on the - side of the coil, but I don't see it now.
