TomoHawk

You could also damage the pump inside the transmission by causing back-pressure, which is not what it was designed to do. The only times you'd really shift is to go to 2nd or first for going down a steep grade. In a situation like that, you'd probably be going relatively slow anyway. I wonder why they don't teach that in Driver's Ed any more? Maybe because it might now be better to rely on the brakes to slow the vehicle (a car) when going downhill, especially since many come with 4-wheel disc brakes or good drum brakes.

Too bad this model is a small one. I've been looking for a 1:10th scale diecast to finish my collection of significant sportscars.

Shifting an automatic shift trans could damage the governor, so you might want to consult your transmission expert on how to shift it or if the should be any (mods) to keep it working well. Other than that, having the transmission in top operating condition is the best thing you can do to get good gas mileage, besides your driving style. the Video on the lockup torque vonverter is: Lock-Up Torque Converter - YouTube

There is a thread about #0002 here somewhere.

"Auto trans beats the manual" is no longer applicable to modern electronically-controlled transmissions- for fuel ecomony at least. Because of advances in the design, manufacturing and electronic control, it no longer makes any difference if you are considering purchasing a new car. So now it's only a matter of nostalgia or hormones, as in "MEN don't use automatic transmissions" or "real sportscars have manual transmissions." The "lockup" refers to the torque converter. At certain times, like on the highway, when there is a minimum load on the engine, the transmission can operate without any slip in the torque converter, so it will literally lock up so there is no difference between engine RPM and transmission input RPM, like when you have a clutch engaged. That way you get the best gas mileage on the highway. It also depends on the intake vacuum, transmission hydraulic pressure and some other stuff, depending on the transmission, so if you press the gas pedal, it will unlock itself, and function normally again. You can have torque converter "lockup" in city driving too, but not usually. A video: Lock-Up Torque Converter - If you want to mess with shift points, you will need to do some research or contact certain companies that deal with performance transmissions, specifically for the one you have. Usually, they do things like modifying hydraulic fluid holes, or changing hydraulic valve springs, gasket mods, etc. There are lots of "shift kits" for Chevy, ford, Mopar, etc. transmissions that can do the same stuff. But for the average driver tire pressure, air temperature, terrain, and what you do with your right foot has the most affect on gas mileage or performance, and your library has some old books on the subject.

Remember... It's really just an L-Jetronic ECU. The TR7 came out in 1975. Assuming it had the L-Jet ECU in it, it would precede the 1976 L28e, and the L28e's ECU could be called a slightly modified TR7 ECU. But then again, maybe you actually could swap them.

There is just a little room for tweaking the ECU, but there is more potential to improve the efficiency (and maybe the power) of the engine by adding one or two more things (like an oxygen sensor.) I'm not looking for miracles, but eventually our L28s will be expensive doorstops when the supply of working, stock ECUs runs out. You will either have to change the ECU, or the engine.

Somebody has to ask... And there's always the prototype to any mass-produced device. l'll bet a good EE would figure out a few places where you could put some adjust ability...

I'm just wondering that if you wanted to build an ECU from the TR7 schematic, what would it cost to build it, and install it in the 280Z ECU box, assuming that it would work? You'd have to re-engineer the small parts that include the integrated circuits, because they are proprietary and most likely no longer exist,which would probably be the onlytough part.

Wavemix- What's the story behind this, anyway? Was it a contest, or just a lucky coincidence? Do you have any details about the model car? Will it be the matchbox-type, or will it be more like a 1:10 scale diecast thing?

What about being the car in a Playmate photo set?

But aren't all of the early Hls30s basically the same? It's special to be selected in any case.

I can measure that kind of performance using my Android tablet and a performance application. For the ECU, I would personally like to have it work like the analog design,to keep it in the spirit of the original designs, although a simple microprocessor would probably help to make up for certain things. An oxygen sensor and MAF sensor could be used to add better control of fuel delivery, for better low-speed efficiency and top-end power, though I would not even try to duplicate contemporary performance. Even an altitude "switch" could be included for high altitude (1500m?) use. Any "tuning" would be done with your little screwdriver, by adjusting some mini-resistors mounted on the circuit board.

Megasquirt is a digital type of EFI, using a different set of sensors and such.

The TR7 ECU with the oxygen sensor just looks like an attempt to incorporate an oxygen sensor to be slightly more auto-adjusting as to the mixture instead of just the (pre-programmed settings) that the L28 engine uses.

With all that we do know about the system, all we need is a basic schematic, and one of our engineers could easily build a PIC based ECU with a number of adjustments (or even a "boost" button) to fit into the old ECU box. It would even be half the size.

The TR7 ECU is supposed to be the "L-Jet" type, and the external connections are what we are familiar with, so it looks like the oxygen sensor was just spliced in to modify the mixture.

Speaking of vintage racing, I'll take you all back to the first ever motor race.. His is the first finisher in the Paris–Rouen motor race, in 1894. But he was ruled ineligible. The second place finisher was later ruled the winner. The first-ever motor race in the U.S.A. was in 1895 from Chicago to Evanston and back, about 54 miles, and took about 8 hours to complete (it was in late November with muddy roads & snow drifts.) The winning vehicle:

There seems to be only one thing left ot of the Cressida AFM swap. The inlet side of the AFM doesn't have the round connector for the air ducting. I think you could just use the one from the Datsun AFM, but I would have to dig up my spare AFM and confirm it.

Yeah, Steve McQueen was too smooth and baby-faced to get all oily and burned, like James garner did in Grand Prix.

I was looking over the sample schematic of the TR-7 ECU, and I noticed it has an Oxygen sensor in it? It's on pg. 4, at coordinates B-1. It also has a 'mixture monitor port' at C-1.

soory, I got onto the wrong topic

This situation is the U.S. Congress: If no one says anything, nothing good will ever happen. If people say the right things to the right people, something good might happen.

I just like to use period-correct parts and such when I have to replace things. It always seems funny to see a digital CD-receiver in a model T. Sometimes you don't really have a choice when you have an out-of-production car that's not American-made.

[i think I'll try the Cressida AFM swap, if I can locate one that fits what's in the wallet. Is the 83 model-year unit the only one? The 1983 Land cruiser AFM (4.2L engine) has a similar design Also, Some of the Ceressida AFMs you see on eBay have a tubular design, and state it's for the 1983 engine. (eBay auction link)