TomoHawk

A guy on HybridZ offers a good HID kit: http://www.dapperlighting.com/classic-headlights1.html Wiring is similar to Z-ondabrain's with relays and fuses, but it plugs in at the headlamp connector, not the harness connector, as Dave's does.

I was just wondering, how you determined the value of the car to be $19,000 ?

Yeah. Let's be nice and help him be a little more realistic.

19,000 Yen maybe?

Just ask your insurance xcompany what they would give you for it. I.E., the Bluebook value is only about $3000. FWIW, You're probably doing the best thing you can do. You're fortunate enough already that you live in a temperate area, without salt on the streets in the winter, and you probably have a shady, dry spot for the car. Eventually, parts for it will be no longer available at any cost, so you will need to substitute something.

I installed fibreglass insulation in my car-barn, followed by perfboard instead of gypsum wallboard. It makes the building more temperature-stable and you can hang things anywhere.

Call this guy: Rod's datsun parts Mobile: (408) 314-3006 San Jose, Ca Office phone: 888-257-7773 URL: http://www.rodsdatsun.com/

Luke Skywalker's X-wing fighter, most likely.

Probably. You need to pry the arm over to slip of the old roller (if there is one) and then slip on the new one. Remember to lubricate things.

I got some seats from an Eclipse for my '78. The Eclipse seat is slightly higher so I can now get my elbow out the window (the factory seats make you feel like you're sitting on the floor) but now I need to duck slightly if I'm wearing a helmet. They were just slightly wider than factory, but everything fits nicely. I think they are good, decent (for cheap) seats for most uses. I had to file the holes on the support where it bolts to the seat bottom so the rail spacing matched the holes in the floor supports. I also used socket-head bolts for the back holes and stock bolts for the front.

From all the photos, it looks like all those 'sloped' decks are stained from water, and the slope is there because the deck sagged and the end went up. There just aren't enough supports under the deck to keep it flat after the substrate absorbs water or moisture over the years. IMHO, I think if all those people with the 'sloped' deck would take that part out and flatten it back to normal, then they would change their mind.

Something must be stuck under the deck keeping it up that little bit. The locks probably. Turn those two locks so the deck will drop down flat and then you can turn the locks again to secure the deck.

It must be a custom mod from somebody. I've never seen one. They are all flat with no slope.

Yeah, you could remove the grille, add a couple nerf bars in the front & back, a small roll bar, and Carroll Shelby's autograph!

Higuys, I've been using a cool new application for android phones/tablets that can record your road trips. It's call GPS Tracker Lite. You can get it via the Android Market. Basically, it records your GPS location and your waypoint data, and can display a Google Map as you travel, or you can view the map after you finish recording. The map will show the roads you traveled, with the speed colour-coded. You can also view some charts of speed, altitude, etc. You can then upload the track data to Google Maps or OpenStreet Map, Facebook, etc. for others to view.

Higuys, A few months ago, I picked up up a cool app for my Android tablet and I've used it a few times so far for driving on the track at Mid Ohio. It's called aLapRecorder. www.adyno.net First of all, the all the app can record HD video of the road ahead, if you mount your device so the camera can view the road. It uses the GPS receiver to record location data, and the app calculates your speed, and displays that on the screen in some small gauge-like "dials." It will also display G forces from the device's accelerometer, and if you have an OBDII engine ECU, using a Bluetooth interface, you can also display engine RPM, trottle position, vacuum, Load/HP, torque, and other things. If you load in the GPS data for a race track (provided free with the app) the app will calculate your lap and sector/Split times, and even show your position on an overlayed Google Map.If not, you can replay a track you just recorded and set up your own start/finish, sectors, etc. After all that, you can export the data,video, display the data in graphic charts, and a bunch of other things.

I think I've finally figured out where to mount a fire extinguisher so it's not in the way, is reachable, and you don't have to take the car apart to install it. I've decided to mount it on a special bracket behind the passenger seat. The bracket will bolt through the deck, so it can be removed easily. You can bolt it flat on the deck or use some standoffs, and depending on how 'beautiful' your mounting bracket is, you may even leave it in the car for shows. Otherwise, the fire extinguisher is stored upright on the wall or a pole in the garage.

Most peole I've talked to, insist the holes are specifically FOR the lights, and the brakes don't need cooling.

I got the flanged bushings at the local hardware store. I measured the roller pin on the hinge for the I.D. of the bushing, then got two so they nested together to make a big roller, which wasn't the correct diameter, but it works. I glued them together and greased the roller pin and got the improvised roller on. Don't make it a tight fit that you need to use a hammer to get it on. It's supposed to roll! To install the roller, I used a big regular screwdriver (or a long pry bar) to push on the detent arm/spring so you can just put the roller on the pin. I used the flanged bushing so it wouldn't pop off like the original one did.

I was thinking of using button-head bolts with hex holes. they would have to be chrome or polished stainless steel.

My driver's side roller was missing when I got the car, so I substituted flanged bronze bushings. I have one inside the other so it's about the same diameter as the roller. I'll get a new roller made, but in the meantime the bronze bushings are working.

Look up the interchange for the part. Maybe it's the 510 iron drums that are the less expensive but easier way to go. IMO, when you mention Z, the sales guys start seeing big $$$ and you pay extra for "sportscar parts."

In 1959, Mr. K came to the U.S. to get Datsun/Nissan going, and you should here his comments on how the Datsuns were comparing to the cars on the American roads at the time. He made remarks on how he communicated to HQ about how the (fairlady) should be equipped. It's in the video about the history of the Z,and probably in his book to.