Weasel73240Z

EScanlons point about location is key I think. I know that I've been driving my Z for one whole Summer now, and I have yet to see a single other 240Z on the road. So in Cali my restored 73 car may only be worth $4,000, but here in Massachusetts, it may be sell for twice that. That assumption is based on the 1 or 2 similar (70 - 73) 240Z's a month that show up in the WantAd classifieds. I also loved you point about the 73 model maybe being "the best". With that said, is there any premium in owning the last model year?

I think thats a bit of a stretch, IMO. In your example, the guy who just died probably has a family who would be impacted by ID theft. Who is being harmed by the sale of the VIN? Granted, its real shady, but is there a victim to this "crime"? Only if someone takes the numbers, goes and steals a Z, and uses them that way. And car thief's generally steal cars for parts (like Honda Accords), not to swap numbers and re-sell them. That takes too much time. The ad just seems extra slimy when the seller ends it with the part about "used as YOU see fit".

I'm with tibZ on this one. In Cali, Florida or Texas, that may be borderline car. But here in New England, that car is damn near cherry. But it will be costly to get her going again. I though I would just "refresh" my 73 for a couple grand when I bought it. It was in much better condition than that one, and my couple grand quickly swelled to about $6,000 in no time. Even still, I would scoop that car up in a minute for $1,500.

If the Z in the junkyard was a 73, it may have flat tops carbs, which I assumed the 260's had originally. If the 240 in the junkyard is a 70 - 72, it would have round tops. Thats what I was alluding to.

I believe the bumpers are different (240's are smaller), but I think could work if you get the mounts also. The SU's are different in 260 (I think they were originally all flat tops in the 260's) so I don't think any of the SU stuff will work either. Unless the 240 in the boneyard is a 73, then it may also have flat top SU's (mine did when I bought it). Unless someone did the round top upgrade to your 260; which I did, and boy am I glad I did. The seat belts would work, I think. But wait for a few more guys to chime in, this is my first Z, so there are lots of guys on here who know better than I.

The PO of my 73 riveted :stupid:a St. Christopher medallion through an otherwise perfect dash. I want to remove the medallion and fix the (2) 1/8" holes. Anybody had luck trying to fill a hole in the dash, and how'd you do it?

I would guess that the rear A arms are interchangeable because the Z was a rally car. Its not only cheaper to forge 1 part instead of 2, but the interchangeable A arms means 1 less spare part to carry in the chase car also. Just my guess.

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Courtesy only carries a green link (.50mm - 40 amp), a black link (1.25mm - 80 amps) and a red link (.30mm). They don't carry a link in .69mm (50 amps) which appears to be what 3 of the links are in the 77 according to the info that webdawg posted.

I took the info that webdawg attached, and went to Courtesy to order the new parts. They have the black and red fusible links in stock. They list the black one as 1.25 mm, just like the info webdawg provided says. However, the red wire (which looks like it should be 0.69mm (50 Amps) according to the info) is only 0.30mm at Courtesy. What gives?

Thats perfect webdawg, you the man!

Gods help us if thats "the lngge of the ftr". I'm only 39, not exactly ancient, but I work with some 25 yr. olds who can't spell at all, and txt lngge is why. IMO But I do hope you do get your car moved Khrystina. I think Seppi72 spelled it out pretty well. As far as getting in, if the coat hanger trick won't work, breaking a window will.

I just moved this from the Electrical category, figured Help Me may work better. Sorry to everyone reading this again.:disappoin Now that I'm driving my 73, I'm trying to help a friend get her 77 280 running. The car is stock, 80,000 miles. The fuel injectors were replaced, and the whole fuel system flushed, last year. New plugs, wires, rotor, cap. The car ran for a while, but they let it sit over the winter, and it won't start up now. First thing, the fusible links are a total mess. Someone spliced them together with whatever wire they could find, no terminals on the wires, corroded, etc. I know Courtesy sells the fusible links in 3 gauges, in 3 corresponding colors. What are the gauges that I need, and does anyone have a pic of the fusible links installed, so I know which color wires go to which terminal? Also, the owner tells me that the last time they tried to start it, the mechanic told them they weren't getting any fuel. Of course, this is the same guy who "fixed" the fusible links! Does one of the fusible links control the elec. fuel pump in a 77? I spent the last year learning all about 240's, so I think getting a fuel-injected 280 running will have me on this board a lot once again. Thanks in advance for the help. __________________

Thats a hell of a slow hotwiring process. Besides, you wouldn't trust "the Sexiest girl on this site". I think I'm gonna change my avatar to the "the Sexiest Italian/Portugese man on this site", or maybe "the most well-endowed man on this site". Either would be more humble than al_itzah2luv's avatar.

FWIW, I did the same thing a ConchZ with the additional weatherstripping on the hatch itself. It didn't get rid of all the exhaust fumes, but its 90% better.

Now that I'm driving my 73, I'm trying to help a friend get her 77 280 running. The car is stock, 80,000 miles. The fuel injectors were replaced, and the whole fuel system flushed, last year. New plugs, wires, rotor, cap. The car ran for a while, but they let it sit over the winter, and it won't start up now. First thing, the fusible links are a total mess. Someone spliced them together with whatever wire they could find, no terminals on the wires, corroded, etc. I know Courtesy sells the fusible links in 3 gauges, in 3 corresponding colors. What are the gauges that I need, and does anyone have a pic of the fusible links installed, so I know which color wires go to which terminal? Also, the owner tells me that the last time they tried to start it, the mechanic told them they weren't getting any fuel. Of course, this is the same guy who "fixed" the fusible links! :stupid: Does one of the fusible links control the elec. fuel pump in a 77? I spent the last year learning all about 240's, so I think getting a fuel-injected 280 running will have me on this board a lot once again. Thanks in advance for the help.

That pic convinced me, I have to remove that ugly gas line insulation. Beautiful motor 7277.

Unless the motor is real high mileage, and if your just looking for a couple years, I wouldn't bother rebuilding the bottom end. JMO

When I put my 73 back together, I removed the air pump just to lose some weight, but I put all of the stuff on the balance tube back on, including the things you circled. Then, I removed them just because I wanted to clean up and simplify the engine bay. I found no change at all in the way the car ran. Looks so much better without them.

Mine are Cragars, so I'm sure they weren't too expensive new.

I bought the set on mine for $100 with really good tires on them. I had to drive 60 miles to pick them up though.

I can't believe you saw that in a junkyard and left it there! :surprised

I killed my last video cam, and the clips I took with my phone aren't very good. I'll try to get one posted. The sound is very good. Deep and throaty at the low end, and it sound real good right through the powerband. No resonance, no popping. The only thing that had to be done was a slight modification on the outlet of the MagnaFlow. The outlet tip is 2 pipes, one about 3-1/2" that surrounds the inner 2-1/4" pipe. The 3-1/2" pipe had to be cut down with a die grinder to get it to fit through the opening in the rear valence. Pretty easy mod though, only took about a half hour.

I had my new exhaust installed last week. I ended up going with a Magnaflow muffler (#14829 I think), and plumbed it in with 2-1/4" all the way from the header back. The sound is awesome, but the fumes have gotten a bit worse with the new exhaust. :mad: The new muffler is slightly shorter than the original was (i.e. it doesn't stick out much beyond the bumper), so I'm guessing that may be the problem. I guess I'll try screwing around with some tip extenders to try and reduce the fumes again.

I'm afraid I can't help with the jet size question, but since you did ask for "any advice", I'll throw in my 2 cents. And I think most of the guys on here would agree. If you really want your Z to run like a Z, get rid of the Webers, and buy a set of ZTherapy SU's. Because the SU's work on engine vaccuum, I don't think elevation is an issue with them, but I don't know that for sure. There are plenty of guys on here in your area who would know better than me. Not a lot of mountains in Boston. The SU's are pretty affordable (I think I paid around $700) and I imagine re-jetting the Webers probably isn't very expensive. But these cars were designed to run with SU carbs, and thats the best advice I can give. Sorry I can't help with the jet question. I bought a set from ZTherapy for my 73, and every time I turn the key, I'm glad I did.