Weasel73240Z

Sounds like a good bet.

There should be 1 right on the passenger side inner fender (pic), and another inside the electric fuel pump (if you have one) behind the fuel tank. Mine also has e in-line, right after the elec. fuel pump. But I'm pretty sure that one was added by the PO.

As far as running poorly in the heat, what is your fuel pump/delivery set-up? Are you running a mechanical or electric pump, fuel lines insulated, heat shield installed, etc.? The supplemental electric pump was added to many Z's by dealers to try and solve similar problems to yours in hot climates. I'm fairly new to the Z's, but fuel delivery seems to be the cause of a lot of hot weather, poor performance issues.

It can be real easy to be off by just a tooth on the dizzy shaft. And if you are, it won't run right. I battled that for about 2 days before I finally got everything dialed in right. Once SBlake sent me the pic, I got it in just a few tries, but I must've taken the oil pump out 10 times before I finally did.

This is what it should look like. Thanks to SBlake and xray for providing the pics when I needed them. Normally, at least on my 73, the #1 spot on the cap is around 9 o'clock, not near the top. Check out the other pic for cap orientation.

Thanks for the input guys. Boy MikeW, I wish my rear end looked like that one! :nervous: So I guess I am back to my original thought to explain the rear end sagging, failing spring. 240znz, I'm planning to do the rear end this Winter. I'm dropping everything, powdercoating all of the metal, installing new spring (Arizona Z maybe), bushings and new struts. Probably gonna change out the 3.36 R180 for a 3.70 while I'm at it. I just got the car last Winter, and spent all that time fixing the rust, doing the engine, front suspension and the brakes so I didn't have time to get into the rear end.

I took the Z in to a muffler shop to get a price to install my new MagnaFlow. While it was up on the lift, I noticed something that I think might explain the rear end sag I'm having on the passenger side. It looks like the pass. side rear control arm (if thats the right term) is upside down. But then I look in my Haynes manual, and the diagram there looks like mine does. So is something installed wrong here, or does it just look that way?

FWIW, I run my 73 (new ZTherapy SU's) with the mech. pump only, no problems at all. I have the factory-added elec. pump at the tank also, but I bypassed it. Of course, MA is a bit cooler than NV.

I agree that you should make sure your on the compression stroke (cam lobes closed) at TDC, but don't take off the valve cover. Just reach in through the oil filler cap and you can feel if they are pointing to 10 and 2 o'clock. Or you can see right in there with a flashlight. Timing beat me up for a week before I got everything right, and I removed the valve cover a few times before I realized it wasn't necessary. :beard:

Congrats, she looks great. I also lusted after a Z since childhood, so I know the feeling of finally owning one too. And just in time for Summer. It's like Christmas all over again every time you start her up. I love the look of the black stripes installed below the rocker line, instead of above it. Enjoy!

Your prospect sounds a lot like my 73, except mine only had 27K miles when I bought it. All original, life long New England car (garaged). Some minor rust, but otherwise just needed to be refreshed. I paid $3,800. After about another $4,000 this Winter, I'm almost done.

I just bought new ones for my 73 240 from Courtesy Nissan.

I run 91 octane unleaded in my original 73 L24 with no problems.

I think, if I buy used springs, I may end up in the same boat (i.e. sagging rear end). I'm running slightly wider tires than stock, and on hard cornering or over hard bumps, I think they've rubbed against the inner fender wells a few times. So I don't mind the idea of a stiffer spring, lets face it, these cars aren't made for a Lincoln-style ride anyway. I'll look into the Arizona springs you mentioned. MSA is all sold out of the stock replacement springs.

I'm planning on rebuilding the rear of of the 73 this Winter. I'm trying to find replacement springs and struts for the rear to address some "sagging" in the rear end. It seems like the ones I can find from MSA, Courtesy and Black Dragon all lower the car about an inch. I don't want to drop the ride height at all. My question is, where can I find new, stock size springs?

The car looks great, and the price is right. One other option, I had mine painted at a local voc-tech school. I did all the bodywork and door/hatch jambs myself, and brought it there primed. I had to supply materials (about $400), and they charged me $86 in labor. If anyone has a vocational school around ask, they are always looking for work for the kids to do. The kid who painted mine was one of my best friends oldest sons. Now he gets all excited when he sees it on the road. I think he did a great job.

Another vote for the ZTherapy carbs. I know a grand is a lot of money, but they are worth $400 more than putting on a carb that the motor just wasn't designed to work with. The ZTherapy carbs are worth every cent. Just my opinion.

And yes, I know my front bumper rubber is missing (still cleaning them up). I know someone would have noted that.

I have mine installed with the fat end of the gasket facing forward in the front, and backward in the rear. That way, looking down on them, they are both parallel to the cars lines.

I want to take the insulation off, it looks like s**t. I don't think I need it living in MA, do I?

Thanks for the compliments, here are a few more.

Doesn't she look nice on a sunny Massachusetts day!

I think it had to do with the fuel system problems that the Z's had, due to underhood heat, early on. I eliminated the electric pump from mine, and its fine with just the mechanical. Stock L24 with new ZTherapy carbs. I just think mechanical pumps are more reliable.