Neal G

Looks like a trip to the JY. Thanks for your reply. I haven't been to a proper pick and pull since I was a kid. Kinda looking forward to it now.

Oh, I did try a 95 honda civic skinny spare. That don't work. neal

I know this thread is old, but...what did you guys do? I have the modern motorsport 13" brake setup all around and will be going on a long drive this spring. (route 66) I thought of porsche, infinity, ect. with 17" wheels and those skinny spares. Adapter or redrilling will take care of the bolt pattern. I just need to fit over the calipers. So, has anyone figured it out? neal

What size? These things are 1"x1"x1/2" spec sheet says; 43lbs of pull each. When you stick them to the fridge, you have to slide them to the edge to remove. I already underestimated their strength and lost a chunk of skin when two of them got too close and decided to join with my skin in between. I read a post from someone that used a similar strength and they held to 100mph. I was going to glass them on the inside of the spoiler (i opened it to modify). 3 across the lid and one on each end that would stick to the fenders. I was thinking about running some thin closed cell foam tape on the underside to prevent slipping and scratching. I had not thought of a tether line. I still wonder about magnatizing the body panel and or interference with my electronics. neal

I am looking for information on the use of rare earth magnets to attach the rear spoiler. There has been some mention of this in various other posts, so I am sure it's been done before. With positive expectations I ordered a few. They arrived and now I'm second guessing their use. These things are so strong it's frightening. My list of concerns includes, The magnitization of the body pannel and collecting debris and possibly staining/ scratching the paint, and or interference with the radio/ antenia and or messing up the K-40 radar sensor I hid in the rear taillight. What do you guys think? neal

All four it is. Thanks again neal

Thanks, just cruised over and found it. Good reading, I'm sure I'm gonna have to read it again and again before I understand (that's a good thing). lucky for me I'm doing the front first so I'll have time to digest. question, should I wait till I have all 4 corners installed before getting it aligned? or will it just overwhelm the alignment tech? neal

I called tecno, YawnTee, you were right. They were great, very helpful, made a sale. I ordered their lower control arms and the T/C rods. I will order the rca's from modern motorsport, also great to deal with, I have his 13" brake set. neal

I also agree... put em on and see what you think. However... watch the dips in the highway when your crusing across the great basin at 100+ mph. I have or rather am switching from that same setup to coilovers from beta motorsport so I can avoid those sudden lane changes I exprienced. (my belief is that there is only 1 1/4" of travel in the front till bottom out. Marks on the gland nut show I was hittin that bump stop often.) I added a 1/4" eurathane spacer to the rear spring to even the car out. I love the height and feel like the rear works fine. But... I am switching to coil overs there also. Toolin around town...tokiko worked ok. See what you think, these are just my thoughts. neal g

Just got back from hybridz, jmortensen did a great fact on this, thanks! But I would like more input on the front lca inboard mount and the lack of rubber. I do like the look of the techno toy units and they "sound" strong. Mr. Mortenson, you have anything for me? neal

Thanks for the tip, i'll head over there and check. I never thought of serching LCA or RCA. I guess I'll be a hybridz when this car is finished anyway. Might as well join there also. As far as the big question, I have lowered already but am installing coil overs, EMI camber plates, sectioned struts, and most of all, It looked as though there was an impact on the drivers fender (pulled finder for paint and found a nice dent in the inner fender). And, I do enjoy these Colorado mountain roads not to mention the trips to Az. Curently i have the Tokiko springs with all thier problems (coil bind). So...to give me all the adjustments available would be my answer. Plus, it's fun to spend money. ____ Is one more dangerous with more knowledge? neal

I'm sure the info is there but I can't seem to master the search thing. I have spent hours upon hours reading, looking, being frustrated with my lack of computer skills. Could someone direct me to the right thread or sticky? Most of what I find is pretty old info, so I wonder if anyone has new input or new products? neal

I need advice and contacts for adjustable front lower control arms. I've read several posts and looked at several web pages, but no recent input on which ones work and the issues when installing. Mostly my concern lies with the lack of rubber/ urethane at the inboard side and the strength of the ball joint. Techno toy, az z car, and another that I can't remember (billet) all look pretty much the same. Any input? neal g

Thanks Arne, That was another thing I wondered, especially since they are close to the same price. It's hard to find a pic of the msa system. I have an old msa catalog that shows it, looks like the courtesy set up. Anyone got any photos of the install? neal

I am looking for info/ photos of the courtesy nissan and the msa air conditioning systems. I have the engine out to re-build and will paint the bay, rewrap wires and such. I think now is the time for the a/c install. I'm trying to decide which kit to buy. msa and courtesy are pretty much the same price. courtesy can ship right away, msa will special order. I am interested how they look under the dash and where the components fit under the hood (compressor location and dryer location along with any relays and plumbing). Does anybody have photos or experience of/ with these. neal g

Thanks for the reply and some great info to consider. Seems like most are happy with the Fidanza/ stock setup. I spoke with Jerry at Z race Products and am looking at the "Wolf Racing" 240 mm 11 lb flywheel and the "mid" level/ stiffness clutch and Pressure plate that they make. Anyone have experiance with them or their clutch/ flywheel set up? Compairable pricing with ebay fidanza and sachs clutch from Rebello. Any more who want to add their feelings? Thanks again neal g

Looking for advice on a clutch and flywheel for my 72. I am having Rebello rebuild the engine (240 hp, oh my gosh) and they say the 75 280z sachs clutch will hold for me but the flywheel is up to me. Use stock or a lightened. I don't have a local shop to resurface the stock and I heard it is hard to get it done right if they will do at all. Arizona Z car has sold out of their 11.75lb billet steel. Jun chromolly is rumored to be thin and shows heat marks through the other side leaving me with Fidanza aluminum and steel mixture or the motorsport auto steel. Motorsport cautions the use of the stock clutch with their lightened flywheel recommending the centerforce II clutch. What is the real truth here, help. neal g

Your garage sounds like mine, 1 extra car minus the part you sit inside (shell).

Arne, I give up. What's a fair price? I was sooo tempted to grab one off ebay back when they were $150 to $300. There was a junk yard that sold a bunch of them in a row. Now that those are gone I find them selling for $400 and up plus shipping. Yikes!!! Come to find out the tranny I had rebuilt was/ is an early 5 speed so I would not have used the 4.11 anyway. Now I need a 3.7 with stubs that snap in and have the 4 bolt 240z flange, and while I'm dreaming I'll just take that in an LSD. (anyone say subaru/ wrong splines darn, anyone say subaru r160/ dust shields darn). Looks like I will be going the Beta motorsports stub mod with a 200sx r180. Hope it comes in an LSD (I don't think so, darn). So have you got a 4.11 to sell or are you looking to buy? Neal

Thanks to everyone for your input. I like the thought that I ordered the later one so send this one back. But... I know my luck, I'll send it back and never find/ pony up the $ (500+ on ebay, kinda scary) for the rear gears I need and will hate the gears of the later tranny. So I'm gonna keep this one and see if I like it. I also appreciated the comments on the cam. I still have the stock engine, runs good, but I think I'll go for the famous life time warenty from the Rebello guys. I'll be sure to discuss transmissions with them before they build my engine. Thanks again neal g

I did my research and decided on the 81/83 zx 5 speed and a later switch to a 3.9 or 4.11 diff.... Saved my money and ordered a rebuilt from a reputable z shop that does tranny rebuilds. There was some confusion evidently because they sent me a 77/79 z 5 speed. Not the ratio I wanted, I'm very disapointed because now they tell me they don't have one within the years I want and I have this fresh 77/79 sitting on my front porch. They have offered a refund if I want but I thought I would get some input from others that have run this tranny, before I go to the trouble of shipping it back. How bad is it? Is second gear right on top of first like the #'s show and how bad is the jump from second to third? Also, are there any advantages to the shorter 5th gear? I would appreciate any input I can get, includiny any recomendations on rear gearing. Thanks, neal

Another great site that help me alot to determine what I want but still no answer about WRX stub shaft/ 240z axle matching. Rather it was here that I discovered the 25/27 spline/ snap in/ bolt in/ r160/ r180/ subaru/ 200sx issues. Someone has got to have this simplified with an adaptor or a source of LSD's for the 240z. thanks again and keep the refrences and ideas commong. neal

I did my "72" winter before last. I put it everywhere, inside the floor, tunnel, rear cargo spare tire, wheel humps and inside the rear quarter panels behind/above the tires, and even the door panels and some leftover pieces inside the doors. I used 2 1/2 rolls. If I remember the rolls were 1 foot wide and 50 feet long. I used "B-Quiet" similar test results at about 5/8 to 2/3 the cost. Prices may have changed. I am very happy with the results. Trans tunnel is cooler and doors shut with authority without the tin can sound. JL audio stero sounds great also. I also used another product called V-comp on the firewall to replace the jute pad and another companys product called LyTherm Max from "cool & quiet" on the tunnel and as a carpet pad all over the floor and grocery area in the back. I also applied thier product called Zero Clearance to the underside of the car in the trans tunnel. When I was a younger lad in Texas I had a 73 z and the trans tunnel always got hot to the point of heating the cabin beyond tolerable levels. Only relief was the AC which I removed for more go power, or excessive speeds on the highway with the windows down. So I did everything I could to eliminate that issue. After the Z show in April and the 14 hour drive home across the desert... I can say it was worth the effort. No heat on the trans tunnel. Cabin stayed comfortable even without AC. Check out B-Quiet, and Cool and Quiet web sites. ps. there was a write up on B-Quiet in sport Z a few years ago. I think they did that "70" with it. neal

Great site, lots of info. Seems that the subarur 160 LSD works fine, straight bolt in and probably stronger than the r180 open diff. Except the metal dust shields on the stubs would have to be moved inward towards the side seals on the diff. And the r160 is lighter. I may choose to go that way but I'm worried about the extra weight of a z vs a 510/ subaru and I think I'll end up with a Rebello 225 hp rebuild in my car. Might be pushing the r160. If I can stay with an r180 I'll be happier. Even that site warned about stub shaft compatibility. neal

I've searched through dozens of threads on several sites and hundreds of listings on ebay and classified adds and conclude that the Subaru WRX LSD r180 differential might be an option for the 240z. I understand that the spline count is 27 (I believe) on the subie and 25 on the z, nor does the flange on the subie match the Z. Beta motorsports will make a pair of stubs that will "clip" into the nissan 200sx r180 differential and match the 4 bolt 240z half shafts. But they ask for 3 stubs from you to modify. I believe the 200sx diff is a 25 spline and not an LSD meaning you would have to install your own LSD. Subaru WRX r180 diff is a 27 spline w/snap in stubs and can be purchased with a factory LSD from the junk yard in various ratios including 3.9. Now all I need is 27 spline snap in 4 bolt flange stubs. The question I pose for any/everyone is, where can I find stub shafts that go into the WRX r180 differential and bolt up to the 240z axle? Maybe I should just ask where I can get an r180 LSD differential for my 240z? Or am I just really confused? neal