Neal G

That's the info Brian. I was typing my response while you were adding the second post. The 240 Z stubs are the same as the 510 except for the dust shield location (tack welded) and maybe the 4 bolt pattern. Sounds like a simple repositioning of the dust shields. Grind and retack. Am I missing something? As far as other options... yes I have and am looking into other possibilities and am open for any suggestions. I've put way too much $ into this car already so why stop now. I am willing to spend the bucks to get what I want. Anyone, shoot me a new idea... LSD, 3.7 or 3.9 or 4.11 gears neal

Brian, Did/does it have bolt in stubs or snap in. Did/ do it have the same flange for the half shafts. Does a 510 have the same 4 bolt pattern on the flanges as a "72" Z. If the subie r160 has the same 4 bolt pattern as a z then the only other issues would be strength of an r160 LSD and width at the outside edges of the flanges. I think the Gary Savage VG30T test says it will hold the power. (I may go with a rebello 2.7 225hp engine). Anyone know about the width issue. I went to the 510 realm and found several hours of reading, but never found a straight answer about the z r180/ subie r160 lsd compatibility. 3.7 gears would be ok, 3.9 better and 4.11 ok also neal

Thanks, I didn't even think of a 510 forum. I know someone has done it. I can't imagine I'm the only one that wants different gears and an LSD. neal

Maybe this isn't the best way to get an answer but it seems like my question comes from this older thread. I want an LSD in my "72" and also need/ want to get some shorter gears to fit the 5 speed. I read the hybredz post about different options including the subaru possibilities. The r160 and a fairly stout LSD was written about, suggesting that it was stronger than the open r180. Question; is this statement been tested by anyone ..."My understanding is that the R160 from the subarus bolts into a 510 or a Z. Once you have the side flanges from another R160 the stock halfshafts from the Z just bolt right up."...I only question the flanges bolting up, and whether the subaru LSD is strong enough or is it the ring and pinion that would be in question? Or am I trying to re-invent the wheel and there is a simpler answer I'm missing. thanks

Thanks Mark, I will not argue your opinion on the wrinkled paint. It was two dime size spots that were not cleaned to metal so I think the new wet primer attacked the old thin skin of paint. I should be ok now since I sanded it out. Also thanks for the info on the epoxy primer, I have plenty of expierence painting fiberglass remote control race boats so I usually wet sand the epoxy and skip the sanding primer. It's fiberglass so no worry about rust. On metal I was not sure. The undercoating I used was reccomended by the paint supply store and seems to be a good proudct and with no worries about the epoxy, I think it will be ok. Thanks again Neal G

Like many of you I can not/ will not pay full price for a paint job that I probably won't be happy with. So, I am diong the "hidden" parts myself (under and inside the fender, inside the cowel where the wiper motor is, door frames and such) to save money. Also I will be doing most of the prep for the "outside" leaving the final details and spraying to the pros. Here's my questions, first my epoxy primer inside the cowel got wet about 2 hours after spraying. Like an idiot I sprayed it off with water after removing the tape and paper to wash away the sand from sandblasting. I noticed a couple of spots that "softened" and started to wrinkle. I did not get all the way to metal in these spots with the sand blaster, no rust there so I just cleaned things with the blaster. I didn't think about it until after I had sprayed my silver but primer is pourous. So I waited another day then ruffed it all up again, this time by hand, and resprayed the silver and put down three good heavy coats of clear (I'm not worried about orange peel inside the cowel). Did I ruin the base/ epoxy primer and start rust or other troubles under it? Will I need to start over? Second, can rattel can undercoating be used to seal the primer like under the fender and behind the fender support? I was doing this then noticed the undercoating "looks" pourous also. There was some surface rust there so it got blasted down to metal. I can seal it up better with some clearcoat and a brush, but am worried about a small spot or two that may have gotten down to metal under the fender inside the wheel well then primed and undercoated. Major mistake? fixable? help. Neal G

Thanks for your help everyone. Now, where does one find the best deal on a rebuilt 5 speed transmission. And where could I find a rebuilt/ good 3.7 differential, r-180 prefferred? (my ideal set up will be a "77"/ "79" trans with a 3.7 r180 diff) But I may have to work with what I can find.

Ok, I read and read the other thread and have gotten tons of info. But can someone verify the following. When changing out a 4 speed from a "72" you can bolt right in a "77" to "79" 5 speed and get pretty much the same first 4 drive gears with another for the highway. You reuse the 4 speed throw out bearing and fork/ collar and the 4speed speedo drive gear. Do you need to reuse the 4 speed shifter, or the 5 speed shifter? Next If you use an "80" to "83" 5 speed you get better acceleration because the gears are more evenly spaced (no big change from 2nd to 3rd) but you need to change out the diff to take advantage of it. Also the shifter is too far forward and you have to either cut metal and or plastic to make it work, or you change out the shifter for a rather hard to find part. Or you cut and weld one of your own. There still seems to be a question if MSA's short shift kit will help with the clearance. My confusion began when the discussion turned to type "A" and type "B" trannys. Not too mention my lack of ability to understand the gear ratios. It gets too jumbled in my head and hurts. Last Z car source of arizona sells an "84"-"86" to 240z swap out for $1900 (ouch) and other 5 speed trannys. What do I want? Who can help me? Thanks, Neal G

I have contacted Dave and will be buying the harnessessss. I will be changing out my H-4 conversion to a hella or cibie and running regular wattage bulbs. The addition of Piaa driving lights will give me the road visibility I want and re-routing the higher current with dave's harness around the switch will give me the peace of mind I want. I have had 4 240's so far and have always kept a close eye on the fuel and electrical systems. Heard many, many horror stories. Had a few close calls also. I have limited the damage by being very watchfull. Actually I was just testing (running my headlights during the day) for such a thing before I get caught out of state at night. No fires please! Oh, the 130/110 rating on the bulbs is that claim they make with the "zenon" bulbs. I dought they are really 130/110. Lastly, I was reading about the fuel pump wiring in another thread and would have to agree with what I read as far as the wiring and connections under the dash and at the tank. (many hours on the phone and under the dash trying to figure it out, 4 cars later and 4 different arrangements from the "dealer/ factory"). This car had a positive wire run from the windshield wiper circut under the hood then through the tranny tunnel straight to the delco pump. I redid that to under the dash and used the factory green wire to the pump. Thanks again everyone, Neal G

Thanks again everyone, I sent an e-mail to Dave about his harness and am going to look into the hella conversion kit. Summit has them for $80 pr. The 130/110 bulbs I have in there now are suppose to only draw "standard" current. (I don't believe it) But the "euro design clear lense" housing is not well suited for a car this low. They send the low beam right to the ground and the high is hitting the trees. At 20' there is an 18" rise and 18" to 24" shift to the left from low to high beams. Fine for a pickup truck Neal G

Thanks for the info/ advice. I'm going to back off on the bulb and see if it keeps things cool. If that don't work, I'll rewire with a relay. How would a person get ahold of one of "Dave's Headlight relay harnesses"? And yes the fuses are showing some signs of "twisting/ warping". I'm not happy with this conversion kit anyway. The high and low beam pattern/aim seem to be designed for a much taller vehicle. Can anyone reccomend a conversion kit? (sealed beam to H-4). Thanks again Neal G

I am looking for information/ advice on the headlight switch. I have had this 240 for a couple of years now with only one electrical problem until this latest puff of smoke from the headlight switch. I made the H-4 headlight conversion a couple of months ago and have driven at night very little. I wonder if I went too"hot" with the 130/110 H-4 "racing" bulb? or is the switch in need of repair/ replacement. I pulled the colum covers off and felt as the hot supply (white with red stripe) wire got hot at the switch connection when the headlights are turned on. High or low, it did not matter. Anyone had this problem? The wire seemed to stay cool enough with the heat being generated at the switch. Thanks Neal G