MikeyZee

The pumps looked like the was the same part numbers at rockauto.com for the Beck-Arnley OEM type pump from 75 to 83 N/A and Turbo. I hope a ZX pump will work with my 78 fuel injection in my 72 240!!!! That's what I got!

I'd probably check with the classified ads here or on http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=141 if you don't want to spend that kind of $$ on a pump and see if they have anyone has an OEM pump. I was looking for a AFM boot and a member there had a fuel pump and allot of other parts. They were reasonable...... The factory pumps are very quiet and reliable.

Use a volt meter back by the pump with the key on. See if you are getting any voltage to the pump it's self. Didn't your Z have a manual pump as well as the electric one? Our 72 only had a manual fuel pump and no electric. At one point we had an issue with the pump picking up crud from the tank and clogging the fuel filter. Do you have a repair manual for your car?

Give Les a call. He does everything for Z cars. I did get the seal from him. I actually got my pump from an old 280zx that was undergoing a V-8 swap. The OEM pumps are expensive though...but are quiet.....

http://www.classicdatsun.com/ has them.

My son is 16 and we have gone through this problem a few times! It turns out that the wires under the dash/console got reverses some how and were not plugged in properly. Make sure you have them all plugged in to the correct socket. Some thing could have gotten messed up when you did your push-button thing. Also charge your battery!!!!! Eliminate the simple and obvious stuff first. Maybe take out the push button and just run it with a regular ignition switch for now. See if that helps at all. There have been more than one time when we had intermittent problems all related to a battery that does not have quite enough juice. Good luck and keep the faith but do your reading......research!!

Here is a site that I have been using allot lately. Lots of great information! http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

Had the exact problem with the 72 240z. Well almost. Then the left rear turn would not work at all....new wire harness and new flasher. It would work properly dependent on temperature. Turned out it was a dirty non working turn signal switch. Took it apart and cleaned it all with electrical cleaner and re-lubed it. Turns out the front and rear turn signal lights have separate contacts in the switch. It would work properly dependent on temperature.

Hi All, My son has a 72 240z with a L24 and dual Weber DGVs. We have been having issues with these lately. I have rebuilt these carbs and after they were rebuilt they worked great for about 3 days. When we installed them after they were rebuilt we also put on a new filter and replaced all the soft fuel lines under the hood. The fuel filter appears to be a newer one so I didn't replace that one but I did add an electric one back by the tank. What will happen is that the front carb will just stop spraying gas at random. Maybe it will run for 2 hours maybe 3 days maybe 20 minutes. On Saturday the front carb decided to quit spraying gas. The temp was maybe mid 70s. We had the car towed to a friends house and swapped the front and rear carbs. ok....the one that quit still would not work on the rear but the front worked. The next day I took apart the top of the carb that failed the day prior. Blew out the fuel inlets and was able to get fuel spraying from it....yee haw! Both carbs were spraying. I made sure timing and idle were set (auto 1050 in p). I used the synchrometer and dialed in the carbs. After about 15 minutes the front carb stopped spraying. Hmmm? Maybe there is crud in the line that feeds that carb. I blew all the hard lines out with compressed air. The fuel in the line came out and about equal amounts of air from the front and rear feeds. Again I took the top off the troubled carb it was full of gas (it was on the first carb too). I sent some compressed air through it and again got it working for about 20 minutes. Then the front carb quit spraying again. It's always the carb I have in the front position. The screens in the carbs had nothing in them blocking flow either. I have also tried it without the electric pump with the same result. I have ordered a new mechanical fuel pump on order and plan to criss cross the lines that go to each carb......that is the next step. Has anyone had this issue? Any other troubleshooting advice? Maybe a fuel pressure reg/guage would help? Thanks for any help or advice!

Hi All, My son has a 72 240z with a L24 and dual Weber DGVs. We have been having issues with these lately. I have rebuilt these carbs and after they were rebuilt they worked great for about 3 days. When we installed them after they were rebuilt we also put on a new filter and replaced all the soft fuel lines under the hood. The fuel filter appears to be a newer one so I didn't replace that one but I did add an electric one back by the tank. What will happen is that the front carb will just stop spraying gas at random. Maybe it will run for 2 hours maybe 3 days maybe 20 minutes. On Saturday the front carb decided to quit spraying gas. The temp was maybe mid 70s. We had the car towed to a friends house and swapped the front and rear carbs. ok....the one that quit still would not work on the rear but the front worked. The next day I took apart the top of the carb that failed the day prior. Blew out the fuel inlets and was able to get fuel spraying from it....yee haw! Both carbs were spraying. I made sure timing and idle were set (auto 1050 in p). I used the synchrometer and dialed in the carbs. After about 15 minutes the front carb stopped spraying. Hmmm? Maybe there is crud in the line that feeds that carb. I blew all the hard lines out with compressed air. The fuel in the line came out and about equal amounts of air from the front and rear feeds. Again I took the top off the troubled carb it was full of gas (it was on the first carb too). I sent some compressed air through it and again got it working for about 20 minutes. Then the front carb quit spraying again. It's always the carb I have in the front position. The screens in the carbs had nothing in them blocking flow either. I have also tried it without the electric pump with the same result. I have ordered a new mechanical fuel pump on order and plan to criss cross the lines that go to each carb......that is the next step. Has anyone had this issue? Any other troubleshooting advice? Maybe a fuel pressure reg/guage would help? Thanks for any help or advice!

Thanks for all the information. Someone has contacted me regarding the shifter so I hope I can get that from him. He may even have a 280zx shifter. As far as the speaker brackets, Thanks for the info on that too, I guess that explains why the one we pulled out was wood.

Great to know Poindexter....did not know that stuff breaks down. Thanks for the info!

I recently used "fatmat" on my son's 240z, my magnum, and my 68 Fury with great results....Very inexpensive with the thermal foil on it and very plyable. When it comes to the deadning I was looking to do just that. Deaden the vibrations and make it so the sound does not resonate through the car. In the past I had used "Dynamat" when that was the only thing out there. It was and still is expensive. I just could not justify spending twice as much for it. Back in the day there was a roofing underlayment called "bichathayne" (SP) that actually did the same thing...It sticks and was like tar paper. That stuff was real cheap. I like the "fatmat" and will use it again. Just my opinion on that.

The kids car is almost together, I think he has even opened up his own Classic Zcar account and will be posting pictures shortly! I am still however looking for a couple things for the interior of his 72 240z. I need to find a auto shifter handel. We were looking at after market shifter knobs but none of them will fit...the shifter is too thick. We also need to find a rear speaker bracket. We have one but the other one was made out of wood paneling! If anyone has these parts please PM me or shoot me an email at guzinski@comcast.net. Thanks all!

Hi all, My son has a 72 240z that has Weber DGV carbs on it. I am trying to determin what jets would be right for the altitude we are at 5900 ft above sea level. It looks like it has 175/160 installed in it now and there is a package with 150/145 that came with the carbs when we bought them used. So, I'm guessing that just the main jets were changed?? I have heard from a couple sources that you wanted to go up 1 size for each 2000 feet in elevation. So, where does 3 sizes put me? It's a 2.4 l stock with an electronic ignition. Any help or advice would be great! Thanks, Mike

Well...I'm still a little confused about this. I had the e12-80 working and the tach working just fine. Now the tach wire (black/white) that was hooked to the + Coil is now hooked to the Red switched power for the MSD box. Now.....couldn't I just find another switched 12v to power the MSD and hook that black/white back up to the coil + and get my tach back?

It looks like instead of the 8910 tach adaptor I will need the 8920.....a little more expensive than the 8910. I wonder if a 280 tach will work without an adaptor??? Anyone know?

Hmmm....the turn signals work on all four corners but the flashers do not work at all. I thought it was the flasher switch but maybe....wow...what a mess!!!!... this car has all the good electrical gremlins. The brights also do not work. when you try the brights the headlights completely shut off. I thought that may be the bright/turn switch may be bad as well....the right turn you have to hold up to get it going, the left works fine, and the brights shut off the headlights and there is no indicator on the dash for the brights either. I have not looked at the schematics yet but it looks like I'll have to study a little more for these gremlins. Thanks for the advice! Mike

Hey All, Just gotta tell you with all the info here I got the 240 to fire right up with the 280 dizzy. I even found a few threads on NOT using the spendy little 12-80 module. It works great! With the 12-80 module I would have to use the Weber starting procedures (two pedal pumps and third pedal to start). With the 12-80 module removed using the magnetic pickup from my MSD 6 connected to the 280's dizzy green and red wires it fires with no choke, no pedal pumps, no one third pedal! Fires up with less than a full crank too! I'm sold on that configuration! (I'll post schematics and pics later) But my tach does not work!!!!! I'm guessing I need the MSD 8910 tach adaptor. The docs I have seen show to hook it up using the switched power (black/white) and the white from the MSD. This is for when you are using the 12-80 module and the white goes to the module. I am not using the white I am using the magnetic pickup (green+violet). Anyone have an idea on how to get that working? Thanks again everyone. BTW....I have two 12-80 modules for sale!!!! anyone? anyone? Mike

Crisis diverted......My teenager...go figure didn't see the box marked Z-electrical parts!!! I have the harness. OK...the only problem now is there are no brake lights. All the turns work and the reverse lights. I'm guessing from the 20000 ft view that it'e the stop switch. "Thanks Arne!"

Hi All, I'm just about ready to send my son's 240z to my friend to do the body work but need to find the repair panels. I need to find a good source of repair panels for the front of the rear wheel well on the drivers side and the entire wheel well on the passenger side. Does anyone know of a decent source? Thanks, Mike

Hey all, I have a an oddity that some of you may be able to clear up for me. When we bought my son's car (72 240z) the tail lights were not installed. THe tail lights have 4 holes for lights. The harness that I have only has 1 bulb in it. hmmmm? What's the deal is that the wrong harness or the wrong lights? The car seems to have a 4 post connector but those two harnesses are the only ones I have. Any help pr pictures of what the harness should look like would be great! Any source of these harnesses? Thanks! Mike

www.car-part.com a network of wrecking yards.....

It's all working....I had the two B/W wires switched. All works now. The post I was reading about the dizzy swap actually had you connecting both B/W and the G/W to the + of the coil.......I corrected that and inverted the B/W wires at first. It works well now that I got the B/W wires corrected. Thanks for all the help!

Thanks for the clarification. All is working now. You guys are awsome......