lmcguffin

I was using Google street view to look at a potential rental house for a temporary work assignment and when I spun the Google Man around there was an orange S30 Z in the driveway directly across the street. Might just be a good neighborhood...

I was Nacogdoches last weekend and saw this Z up on a stand in front of a used car lot. I didn't have time to stop so I checked out online. The robovoice in the video described it as "two hundred sixty Z".... kinda got a kick out of that. That and the 1975 listing even though it has an RLS VIN number. The car looks good in the photos. http://www.peppardautoplex.net/1975_Datsun_260Z_Nacogdoches_TX_157066287.veh#

Actually it was my son Alex in his '78 280Z. He was rear-ended in his Nissan Titan a couple of weeks ago and briefly commented about the never-ending Tulsa road construction while driving his Z. They appear around 1:00 into the video. http://www.fox23.com/mediacenter/local.aspx?videoId=3593033&navCatId=19942 Here's the Z sitting in the driveway in Houston last Labor Day.

I've converted a couple of Zs from R12 to R134a; both had dealer installed A/C with the evaporator installed in-dash and used the vent/heat-only climate control panel. One was a 78 and one was a 74. I replaced most everything except the evaporators as they were fitted in a plastic housing that fit behind the dash vents. The 78 had a Sankyo/Sanden compressor that I tore down, cleaned, and replaced the seals. The rebuild kit and tools were from Arizona Auto Air (ACkits.com). New R134a Sanden compressors and TX valves that fit the flare connection on the original evaporator are available at Classic Auto Air.com. I have a local auto parts house that can make the hoses with the O-ring or flare connections, however I used the o-ring connectors wherever possible. I purchased the parallel flow condensors and dryer/accumulators from ACkits.com, but I haven't added an electric fan as both cars had the shroud on the radiator fan for A/C service. Since the heat/vent-only climate control doesn't provide any control for the compressor I added a little rocker switch w/ blue LED in the console to switch the compressor clutch on using a relay. Running the climate control selector in the "Off" position recirculates cabin air while running in "Vent" will pull in outside air. The blower fan will run in either position, however air is not directed thru the evaporator unless the selector is in Off or Vent/Bi-level. The dealer installed system used an adjustable thermostat (capillary type) switch to control the compressor, which I removed as it didn't work.

Thanks for the pic Jeff. I couldn't find a reliable pix of a late 260. The front of the OP Z looks like a stock early 260 except for the air dam. When I bought my 260 it looked similar to that... no turn signals, no bumper, and it had an air dam from a 280. I immediately scrounged some turn signals from a 280 and then when I went to mount them I was deflated...what I thought were turn signal brackets were part of the bumper mounts...

12/74....? In the pix above of the white Z the side indentations for the rear bumper would indicate that it is an early 260. According to my Nissan parts fiche those type bumpers were used on 240/260 up to 8/74. My 9/73 has the indentations. This is important, especially when changing/upgrading suspension components as many changes were made for the 9/74 model. Seems like a 12/74 build date would be an early 280 with an HLS VIN number.

Frank, such a tragedy for a sharp car. I saw and heard 00721 at Uptown Park some time back. Glad you're able to Z another day. Let me know if you need an old set of SUs to do a sneak swap for your Mikunis....

Read up on the spindle pin extraction before starting the rear wheel outer bushings. I ended up making my own extraction tool for a bushing replacement on a 78. Lot of threads related to spindle pins.

There are some independent trailer dealers that rent trailers for less cost than U-Haul as long as you're not going out of state. I checked with these guys a few years ago and I could get a lightweight car hauler that would handle a Z for around $60 a weekend. I would think Dallas would have something similar. I too have investigated towing options and the prospect of dropping the driveshaft to go any distance really limits the options for a permanent set up. I plan to rent one of these lightweight car haulers when I bring the car to the paint shop. http://www.trailerworldhouston.com/index.php

condensation drain lines for aftermarket or dealer installed a/c? I've had 2 Zs, both with dealer installed a/c; one had the drain punched thru in the same area, and one was in the top center of the tunnel. Both cars used the ventilation controls for a non-a/c car, so it wasn't obvious that there was a/c given the absence of a compressor.

I had a similar issue with timing when I got my 74 and found that the distributor drive shaft was not oriented with #1TDC. The PO had rigged the distributor adjustment clamp to compensate (also had to do with fitting a 240 dist on an F54 block). This can happen if the oil pump is removed and the shaft falls down and is not replaced in the correct orientation. Some other thoughts: A digital timing light can determine the exact degree of timing when the pulley mark is off of the scale. This is good for checking total advance. If they are SU carbs make sure that the chokes are off - could cause the high idle. I had some that were binding and the linkage would not pull them down.

The blue/red wire at the key switch is power to the group of fuses noted as "Accessories" in the fuse box. The wiper system is easily the most complex control scheme in the entire car...there are relays in the wiper motor assembly in addition to the intermittant amplifier that controls the "Int" position. As noted above, the wipers have power when the Combo switch is in the "off" position so that they can reverse and park. The is a limit switch on the wiper gear box that stops the motor when parked, and then sets up the wiper to operate when switched on again. As also noted above: Check the combo switch, fuses, and connectors at the intermittant amp (in passenger footwell under dash), and wiper motor. You may then have to start replacing components.

The power to operate the wipers and other accessories is switched with the Ignition key switch. Over time these contacts degrade and will develop resistance (causing heat). Heat further degrades the contacts, so it's a progressive erosion. Check the voltage on the power to the switch (should be large white/red wire) and the voltage on the power to the accessories fuses (I believe a blue/red wire) and see how much voltage drop is at the key switch. Also check the fuse contacts at the fuse clips in the fusebox. Inspect the various male/female connectors around the steering column for signs of contact heat damage (usually a discoloration in the plastic). The contacts on the key switch are somewhat sealed, but you might have some luck with an electronic contact cleaner followed by a good quality electrical lubricant (CRC 2-26) that is forced into the contact block. The key switch on my 260 was causing several problems due to voltage drop.

My son has these that may be coming up for sale pretty soon. He was told they were vintage, but I can't vouch for that (look like late 80s stuff to me...). They are chromed steel, 14x7, with what looks like zero offset. Decent shape, some curb rash. Somebody here may be able to date them. I'd have a set of the Bullit Mustang "Torq Thrust" wheels on my Z if i could just get around that 5-hole thing...

Sand off the original white markings from the gauge face before you apply the white face decal. I did one of the small gauges and had only cleaned the gauge face and was still able to see the original markings thru the decal. Long story, but I used 280 gauge decals on 260 gauges and the markings aren't in quite the same positions. For the needles I bought some of the Testor's model enamel paint (comes in the little tiny bottles) and used a brush. It dries to a nice smooth glossy finish.