lmcguffin

I was using Google street view to look at a potential rental house for a temporary work assignment and when I spun the Google Man around there was an orange S30 Z in the driveway directly across the street. Might just be a good neighborhood...

I was Nacogdoches last weekend and saw this Z up on a stand in front of a used car lot. I didn't have time to stop so I checked out online. The robovoice in the video described it as "two hundred sixty Z".... kinda got a kick out of that. That and the 1975 listing even though it has an RLS VIN number. The car looks good in the photos. http://www.peppardautoplex.net/1975_Datsun_260Z_Nacogdoches_TX_157066287.veh#

Actually it was my son Alex in his '78 280Z. He was rear-ended in his Nissan Titan a couple of weeks ago and briefly commented about the never-ending Tulsa road construction while driving his Z. They appear around 1:00 into the video. http://www.fox23.com/mediacenter/local.aspx?videoId=3593033&navCatId=19942 Here's the Z sitting in the driveway in Houston last Labor Day.

I've converted a couple of Zs from R12 to R134a; both had dealer installed A/C with the evaporator installed in-dash and used the vent/heat-only climate control panel. One was a 78 and one was a 74. I replaced most everything except the evaporators as they were fitted in a plastic housing that fit behind the dash vents. The 78 had a Sankyo/Sanden compressor that I tore down, cleaned, and replaced the seals. The rebuild kit and tools were from Arizona Auto Air (ACkits.com). New R134a Sanden compressors and TX valves that fit the flare connection on the original evaporator are available at Classic Auto Air.com. I have a local auto parts house that can make the hoses with the O-ring or flare connections, however I used the o-ring connectors wherever possible. I purchased the parallel flow condensors and dryer/accumulators from ACkits.com, but I haven't added an electric fan as both cars had the shroud on the radiator fan for A/C service. Since the heat/vent-only climate control doesn't provide any control for the compressor I added a little rocker switch w/ blue LED in the console to switch the compressor clutch on using a relay. Running the climate control selector in the "Off" position recirculates cabin air while running in "Vent" will pull in outside air. The blower fan will run in either position, however air is not directed thru the evaporator unless the selector is in Off or Vent/Bi-level. The dealer installed system used an adjustable thermostat (capillary type) switch to control the compressor, which I removed as it didn't work.

Thanks for the pic Jeff. I couldn't find a reliable pix of a late 260. The front of the OP Z looks like a stock early 260 except for the air dam. When I bought my 260 it looked similar to that... no turn signals, no bumper, and it had an air dam from a 280. I immediately scrounged some turn signals from a 280 and then when I went to mount them I was deflated...what I thought were turn signal brackets were part of the bumper mounts...

12/74....? In the pix above of the white Z the side indentations for the rear bumper would indicate that it is an early 260. According to my Nissan parts fiche those type bumpers were used on 240/260 up to 8/74. My 9/73 has the indentations. This is important, especially when changing/upgrading suspension components as many changes were made for the 9/74 model. Seems like a 12/74 build date would be an early 280 with an HLS VIN number.

Frank, such a tragedy for a sharp car. I saw and heard 00721 at Uptown Park some time back. Glad you're able to Z another day. Let me know if you need an old set of SUs to do a sneak swap for your Mikunis....

Read up on the spindle pin extraction before starting the rear wheel outer bushings. I ended up making my own extraction tool for a bushing replacement on a 78. Lot of threads related to spindle pins.

There are some independent trailer dealers that rent trailers for less cost than U-Haul as long as you're not going out of state. I checked with these guys a few years ago and I could get a lightweight car hauler that would handle a Z for around $60 a weekend. I would think Dallas would have something similar. I too have investigated towing options and the prospect of dropping the driveshaft to go any distance really limits the options for a permanent set up. I plan to rent one of these lightweight car haulers when I bring the car to the paint shop. http://www.trailerworldhouston.com/index.php

condensation drain lines for aftermarket or dealer installed a/c? I've had 2 Zs, both with dealer installed a/c; one had the drain punched thru in the same area, and one was in the top center of the tunnel. Both cars used the ventilation controls for a non-a/c car, so it wasn't obvious that there was a/c given the absence of a compressor.

I had a similar issue with timing when I got my 74 and found that the distributor drive shaft was not oriented with #1TDC. The PO had rigged the distributor adjustment clamp to compensate (also had to do with fitting a 240 dist on an F54 block). This can happen if the oil pump is removed and the shaft falls down and is not replaced in the correct orientation. Some other thoughts: A digital timing light can determine the exact degree of timing when the pulley mark is off of the scale. This is good for checking total advance. If they are SU carbs make sure that the chokes are off - could cause the high idle. I had some that were binding and the linkage would not pull them down.

The blue/red wire at the key switch is power to the group of fuses noted as "Accessories" in the fuse box. The wiper system is easily the most complex control scheme in the entire car...there are relays in the wiper motor assembly in addition to the intermittant amplifier that controls the "Int" position. As noted above, the wipers have power when the Combo switch is in the "off" position so that they can reverse and park. The is a limit switch on the wiper gear box that stops the motor when parked, and then sets up the wiper to operate when switched on again. As also noted above: Check the combo switch, fuses, and connectors at the intermittant amp (in passenger footwell under dash), and wiper motor. You may then have to start replacing components.

The power to operate the wipers and other accessories is switched with the Ignition key switch. Over time these contacts degrade and will develop resistance (causing heat). Heat further degrades the contacts, so it's a progressive erosion. Check the voltage on the power to the switch (should be large white/red wire) and the voltage on the power to the accessories fuses (I believe a blue/red wire) and see how much voltage drop is at the key switch. Also check the fuse contacts at the fuse clips in the fusebox. Inspect the various male/female connectors around the steering column for signs of contact heat damage (usually a discoloration in the plastic). The contacts on the key switch are somewhat sealed, but you might have some luck with an electronic contact cleaner followed by a good quality electrical lubricant (CRC 2-26) that is forced into the contact block. The key switch on my 260 was causing several problems due to voltage drop.

My son has these that may be coming up for sale pretty soon. He was told they were vintage, but I can't vouch for that (look like late 80s stuff to me...). They are chromed steel, 14x7, with what looks like zero offset. Decent shape, some curb rash. Somebody here may be able to date them. I'd have a set of the Bullit Mustang "Torq Thrust" wheels on my Z if i could just get around that 5-hole thing...

Sand off the original white markings from the gauge face before you apply the white face decal. I did one of the small gauges and had only cleaned the gauge face and was still able to see the original markings thru the decal. Long story, but I used 280 gauge decals on 260 gauges and the markings aren't in quite the same positions. For the needles I bought some of the Testor's model enamel paint (comes in the little tiny bottles) and used a brush. It dries to a nice smooth glossy finish.

I've been to Guilbeau's (rhymes with t-bow), a joint near New Orleans that sells Dixie beer and boiled crawfish.... Sorry for the bad pun... couldn't resist when I saw the thread...

I bought replacement duct hose from Nostalgic Air. The 2" fits the eyeball ducts on the dash ends. I used a large plastic zip tie (ty-rap) to secure the hose on each end. The hose is very flexible and is double walled, so I'm not too concerned about insulating it. http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ac/duct-hose-sold-by-the-foot-76.php

Good luck... Behind Motor-Head on the eastbound side of South Main is Stafford Auto Supply, which is an old-school auto parts store. You can walk in there and pick up your replacement metric hardened exhaust studs from the bolt drawers. Try doing that at AutoZone... They also make custom A/C system hoses should that need arise. I agree with what Bruce said, however it seems that finding a shop capable of actual machine shop work in this era of disposible engine components is getting difficult. I keep asking Frank "who's gonna replace you when you retire?" His vague answer means no one... and so goes the tragedy of our loss of respect for skilled trades.

Motor-Head in Stafford is an old-school machine shop. They've done the work on a couple of L28s for me... valve jobs, head straightening, block decking/honing/boring, etc. Talk to Frank. He's forgotten more about engines than I'll ever know...

Frank, I'm getting concerned that we may see more restrictive emission laws in Texas. The emission laws are county by county, with the large metropolitan counties (Houston, DFW, etc) requiring emission inspections whereas the rural areas do not as of now. From what I've read, "new vehicles" model years 1968 and later require that emission equipment be maintained in good operable condition and that replacement exhaust systems be equally effective as original, with emission testing required for vehicles 2-25 years old. So will it really be enforced? Sounds like they're supposed to look and see if the stuff is there and not disabled, but no testing is required. My son's 78 has headers/aftermarket exhaust and the EGR system has been removed, yet nothing was said at inspection. Course, we intentionally go to a location where he worked during high school to hopefully get by on any "covert" violations. The 78 had it's first Texas registration inspection when it was still in stock condition, so that may be why it is not an issue now. In the case of my 260 that I'm working on now, it has an L28 with SUs, headers, aftermarket exhaust; not a bit of the original emission equipment that was installed on that model year. It hasn't been registered in Texas yet, so it may be considered a "new vehicle" and will be subject to visual inspection of the emission equipment. I'll find out when I bring it in. Naturally I'll be going to the place where we know the people...

Couple of things to condsider: Remove the small wire from the starter solenoid on the starter motor. This will keep the starter from running. Then hold the ignition key switch in the start position. The fuel pump should run while the key is in the start position. You can then troubleshoot the fuel pump circuit. Another item: make sure the clear fuel filter is rated for the higher system pressure (~42 psi) that the fuel injected cars use. When I changed the filter on our 78 I wanted a clear filter but couldn't find one that was rated for the pressure and had to use the OEM can type filter.

Look for what is called a "wobble" extension for your socket/ratchet set. It allows minor deflection in the extension between socket and ratchet, and is not as aggravating as a universal joint. I found it to be very useful for the manifolds, especially on the fuel injected cars.

Haven't had any trouble in the cars, but it wreaked havoc with my lawn mower. Mower ran fine for several years, then in one summer I replaced the diaphragm gasket in the carb several times. Asked the guy at the parts store what the deal was, and he said it was ethanol (this was a couple of years ago). He said it had been wiping everyone out (yard maintenance is huge in Houston...) and to use premium gas. I switched to premium for the mower and other tools and haven't had any problems since.

Sprinting from red light to red in the choked suburbs is fun for about 10 minutes, then it's old. The weather this morning was looking good: Temp around 75, sun was out, roads clean and dry. Time to leave the red lights behind. I can be in the agricultural lands in about 15 minutes from the house, and there's a road that passes by Brazos Bend State Park that's blessed with smooth, even pavement and these gorgeous sweeping, banked turns. The visibility is good; you can usually see what's on the other side of the curve. So as the car hunkers into the curve and road banks up you feel like you're locked in a groove, then you slingshot out, exhaust howling that inline-6 tune as the tach swings thru 5 grand. Drop it in 5th for a nice little straight section; then slap it back in 4th and do it again...:classic: (I even got to scream by a poseur civic as I came out of one turn... felt like the daily-double.) Ahhhh....pulse-quicking bliss....worth the price of admission...

Stephen, According to the parts fiche the 11/16 slave (either Nabco or Tomico) was used until 6/72; then the slave was changed to 3/4. The p/n for the withdrawl arm changed at the same time, however drawings in the fiches show adjustable push rods for all the S30 model years. The slave p/n changed again in 7/75, but remained 3/4.