m4xwellmurd3r

>_< I want a grant wheel now but I'll stick with my old wooden wheel haha. It's nice to have since it doesn't conduct heat too well (very nice in arizona. I'm able to grab the wheel after my car sitting out in the sun an entire day, where the rest of the body is so hot I can't even touch it)

I ran my Z with only the resonator on it for a few days for testing. under cruise it was really mellow. not too loud, and very deep, but step on the gas and it really opened up. I really didn't get exhaust fumes too badly, but maybe I've somehow been desensitized to them.

2671 sounds more reasonable the 2800 is the maximum weight for the 280z (meaning, vehicle weight PLUS maximum cargo weight) close to 100lbs is in the bumpers and even more in all the extra bracing in the doors, and in the body.

haha here's what I did many years back. We had this red rock in our yard. not too big, but kinda heavy. I took my bike lock key, and dropped it in the dirt UNDER the rock, and dropped the rock on it. It worked out great, because one day my KEY broke, so I had to lift up the rock, and get the spare haha

I don't know if the 280's have that key code. My 78 has the little sticker for all the info, but nothing on a key code

That seems to be the american logic when it comes to car's "There's nothing wrong so I must not have to do anything to it!" then something breaks and they probably think "Oh, that part must've worn out, I guess I should replace it now" so after so many year's the car's basically falling apart due to neglect. I had a friend that NEVER put water or oil into his car, and one day he was late for class, his reason was "My car overheated so I had to put more water in it" another time, he was late, because his OIL light came on, so he had to put oil in it. If nothing SAYS anything is wrong, people will just drive their car's till the rotors are worn down to the vanes, and their drums fall apart. Or till the oil light comes on, or their car overheats to the redline.

the thing about that car is, the guy who rendered it, basically just used the old S30 body line's and modified that. Someone did an onion layer of an S30 profile over it, and it matched almost 100% It looks nice, but it doesn't fix any of the problems with the old body, aerodynamic wise that is. I really want to see what the new 370z looks like. From the pictures I saw of the silver car, it looks very much like a new version of the S30

NC I think also has the 25 year excempt. I know in Harnett County, they have NO emissions, and vehicles 35/40 years old (can't remember) are totally inspection EXCEPT. Meaning, just bring your happy title to the dmv, register it, and you get plates/tags. Doesn't matter WHAT you do to the car because it's so old

ah ok, now I see the difference. that explains why those years also got the 3.90 diff I suppose. (which is actually what I want to put into my Z)

'ts ok. even the best of us could make a mistake, and admiting when you're wrong means you're a good person XD I have a question that I don't really understand much though. I've heard that the early/late can be a close ratio and a wide ratio (not sure which is which) are they talking about the spacing between 2nd and 3rd?

Ah. well I'm curious to know if anyone else has the high heat sticking issue as well. I could take the tach out and take it apart to clean it, but I'm not sure exactly what I should be looking for in terms of what to clean. AZ get's really hot, so my tach sticks quite a bit if it's not totally in the shade. and I'd rather not have to wait a good 10+ minutes of reving and hitting my dash to get the tach to work smoothly.

hey EScanlon would those high temps happen to cause an electrical problem with sticky tachs? or is that just a mechanical stickyness. My 78's tach will stick if it's hot out, and i have to tap/hit the face plate to get it to go back down. but after cooling off a bit it starts working perfectly again. I'm thinking it's just some grime that get's gummy when it get's hot and needs to be cleaned.

I just did compare them in my 77 FSM...but they show the same ratios for the F4W71B and the FS5W71B but whatever, no point dragging on a meaningless conversation like that.

well, from what i saw on zhome, the 77-79 4 speed and 5 speed share the same gear ratios.....

sblake I don't think he ment the early 5 speed have the same ratio as the early early 4speed (which they aren't) but the "early" 5 speeds (that is, the 77-78 version) has the same first 4 as the same year 4 speed, and to use that as a reference if say, he had a late model 4 speed laying around.

on my 78 the timing marks are over at 11:00 because it has an a/c unit installed. I'm not sure if this is the only reason, but I do know that the timing marks can be at 2:00 or 11:00.

Hey Mike, I don't know about that 3rd picture, but the 4th one is the Hiragana character "ne". But i have no clue what that black one is with the scribbles.

I saw something neat for VW's way back. it was a modern stereo system, but custom made to use the original face plate and buttons. it was really neat. I'm sure SOMEONE could make something like that, if they wanted to spend the time and money to make such a thing. it looks totally stock, and all the buttons work as if they were stock, but behind it is a very modern stereo.

no idea why it would be on the RETURN line. that makes no sense. putting it on the output line in between the tank and pump though, that helps keep tank crud out of the pump if you have tank rot

well you could turbo the stock engine. if you don't want big numbers, and just a bit more umf, you could turbo and intercool it, with a moderate amount of boost without issue. BUT you will need an aftermarket ECU. and an MSD ignition would also be helpful I'm taking a different route with my 78. I'm going to put all the go-fast parts I can, without touching the head or block (no big cam, no port work, no high comp pistons) I just want to see how far I can take the stock head/block combo. hopefully I can muster a 14s 1/4 mile. if you want to dip into the performance side of Z cars, hop over to hybridz.org

nope they're both called cyclones. just one is a 15 spoke and one is a 30 spoke the 15 spoke are cyclone and the 30 are cyclone 1's (weird eh?)

I've always known those as western "turbines"

Speed and dexterity probably haha. speaking of changing diff fluid, I need to change the oil in my transmission.I haven't really found any good info, but I know i can drain it from the bottom, and if I take out my center console there's an access plate of some sort on top?

well if he wants better performance and a bit better gas mileage, he should ditch the slushbox for a stick shift.

Just like blake said, for the price and how professional his page looks, it looks like an amazing deal. I wish I had known about him when I bought my new injectors.