m4xwellmurd3r

How about a way to get keys for a car with no keys. My key works for my ignition, But I don't have keys for the doors/hatch. I figured I could probably pull the locks out and have a lock smith re-key them for my ignition switches key (which I THINK is a datsun key haha, it fits in the lock at the least)

the 280z's are fuel injected, not carbed. I'm going to guess the water temp sensor is corroded like hell and making it run rich, but it could be something else.

I have a 78, they don't mark the engine number on the plate inside the engine compartment.

It's also illegal to swap vins out like that.

I would say to buy a digital multi meter first. you can get one for liek 25-30 bucks at the auto parts store.

I'm considering the same thing in the future when i can find a place i can do work on my car. oh, and tools.

i must be lucky because window up or down i never get exhaust fumes. and i've never replaced any seals or anything in my 78. it's all stock too. but i think maybe the best thing is to make sure the exhaust is longer than the rear bumper, and have nice seals along the hatch like everyone says.

i'm not too sure, because all the other pins are doing really is picking up the level of resistance created by the movement of the flap.

the rest of the pins are for things like the air temp sensor, and the internal potentiometer, so i doubt they'll light up.

google translator can't translate foreign japanese words. Katakana is used for foreign words, so there is no way to translate them really. Which is annoying if you can't read katakana haha. (good thing that i can read most katakana and hiragana though.

make sure you post vids when that engine finally gives out from all the torture you're putting her through! We should call the police for Spousal Abuse!

his rust free hatch panel My, rust free hatch panel hmmmm....XP (my car sat outside for probably 10 years exposed to the elements but also, mines a 78, not a 69. 10 years is a big difference) Edit: For a florida car though, i don't think that's too bad. But still way too much considering the work it would take to really make it rust free

exactly. I peeled out in my 78 ONCE by dropping the clutch at 4500rpm, and ONLY once, just to get it out of my system. It was fun, but I'm not going to do it again because of how hard it is to find parts. if you want to do a burnout, go find an old junkyard car or something. Don't use something as pretty and rare as a Z

I recently found out our new worker at my starbucks, Ted, used to own a 77-78 280z. He said it was his first car he bought when he got out of highschool. Pretty funny, because the first car I bought fully with my own money, was my 280z. I think he'll be pretty happy seeing it when i start driving it.

pretty much. If the front brakes are fine, and the front piston in the master cylinder is shot, then the fluid will bleed internally and it'll never build pressure. I know when the rear piston went out (front brakes) if i jammed on the brakes it was solid, but then the pedal would sink to the floor as the fluid bleed past the seals.

Note to self:when buying a Zed, look for burnt rubber under the fenders.

Well, if the front brakes are working, then it means the push rod is applying pressure to the brakes. iirc, the front section are the rear brakes, and the rear section are for the front brakes (it's like that on my 280 at least)

Sounds like it might be a combination of things. I have a 78, and the fuel relaying system is different. Let me check the manual real quick. (5 min later) OK I'm TERRIBLE at explaining these things, but here's a link to the best EFI manual made in my opinion for the 280z's http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf page 23 talks about the fuel injection/fuel pump relays. If you follow the schematic, I'm sure you'll be able to figure out why it's not getting power. Mine was bypassed for some apparent reason, but I hooked it back up normal and it works fine. (but i bypass it as an anti-theft measure)

Hmm...you said that no fluid comes out of the rear bleeder screw on the master cylinder, but it does in the front right? That REALLY sounds like the master cylinder is dead. I didn't use any bleeder machine though, I installed it into my car, and bench bleed it using the brake like normal, then hooked up the lines and I actually didn't have to really bleed it after that. I did a pretty good job of not loosing any fluid so the brakes are nice and firm now. That's really strange that nothing comes out though..

that's awesome. a note to her kid hahaha.

yeah, I'd do a compression test then go from there. I THOUGHT my car was burning oil because it was smoking (and it looked like oil smoke) and when i pulled the plugs they were a nasty black, well I also found out my car was running stupidly rich. I also thought that my plugs were wet with oil, but once i fixed the stupidly rich problem, no smoke, no wet plugs.

yeah, but as for the trade off, you guys get humidity and wetness, where us (in the desert) get dry heat and almost no rain.

hey! i had one of those! i don't think it had an emblem on it though.

sounds like your carbs are running WAY rich and need a tune up. but i dont' know too much about carbs. but from the sound of it they're running rich.

my car has been in the shop for some time now, but a couple weeks ago i was taking my laundry out and i overheard the kids that play in my apartment complex go "DUDE! That's the guy with the TIGHT NISSAN!" I kinda chuckled thinking to myself "wow, a kid that knows a datsun is a nissan haha" i think it's kind of funny because no where on the car does it say nissan. it says datsun all over.