m4xwellmurd3r

Not just that. the window has the defroster lines, and the engine has all the wires for the sensors AND all the screws for the parts. if i were to just sectino that part of the image out, you would think it was real! and i also hope they have the base model s30 and 432R

They really need to do a 1:24th scale "for sale" series 240z Those things look REALLY nice. (what i find funny, is out of ALL the For Sale 1:64th scale car, the Z looks the cleanest.

a couple images that i thought looked REALLY good MAN look at the detail to that ferrari's engine!

wait....sothose car's AREN"T really!? holy hell that looks AMAZING. Honestly, it's almost impossible to tell if it's real or not XP I'm looking at some screenshots, and i must say, this game REALLY makes the ps3 shine. (as if any GT series game hasn't. GT4 really showed the power of the little old ps2) not to long before someone decides they want to build a simulation machine using GT5 XP

Really? there is 1 fast z with a twin turbo setup (but his has a custom dual overhead cam setup and a 3.1l) I think you can do a twin turbo setup if you use the right combination of parts. he wants to keep the L24 engine, so dropping in the RB (while a nice fast engine) is out of the option. it will be a lot of work, and you might not get as much power as you could with different setups, but i think it might be neat. Not sure what you mean by losing power in the L6 with a twin turbo setup. the RB is a twin. maybe you mean in the z engine? I think if the turbo's were sized properly you should be able to make the same power as a single setup.

i'd start checking all your ground wires. mine had a slightly corroded fuseable link that caused it to not get enough power to start. after i cleaned up all my ground wires, bam, it fired right up. I'm not sure how the wiring looks on the 280zx's though, but maybe that's what's happening to you?

holy crap! that looks to be about how much i'm rebuilding my engine for, minus the cost of the msa headers/exhaust system, arp head studs and rod bolts. >_< i'd rather gain the experience (and scars) of rebuilding an engine on my own though haha.

i don't lift mine from the diff simply because my bushings/mounts are extremely worn out. I tend to jack it from the frame rails since mine are totally solid (not sure if this is a bad thing though)

from the sound of it your pickup tube is blocked by garbage. I have one of those fram G3 filters behind my pump, and i can tell i needa get that thing flushed out. it turns to mud after 10 miles of driving. luckily it's doin it's job and the car doesn't really bog out from it. I think your tank just needs a nice hot bath XP

how much gas was in it. I thought i had enough gas in mine, but it ran low enough for it to not suck any fuel. i swore and swore i had gas in it, till i popped a gallon in it and she fired up. do you mean the pickup tube as far as the fuel suction thing part goes XP

ooooo very nice looking from what i can see. I like the fact yours has the overrider bars. (mine has them too, it really cleans up the look of the rear end imo)

poor 299.... if it WAS originally Blue/Blue i'd like to see it restored and matches, what do you mean about the bumper o_O i just see 240z bumpers

British Standard Pipe Thread. which is weird considering it's a Japanese car. i figured they would be metric fittings.

haha no problem. I downloaded it to my car info folder to make sure i always have it (i have like 3 copies of it scattered on my PC)

the fuel injection bible has the numbers it should be. ummm lemme find it. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf there's the link. it has the resistance measurements for the water temp sensor iirc.

it wouldn't. in a 78, the AFM has no part in the control of the fuel pump. you must have a loose connection somewhere in the wires, maybe from your oil pressure sender or a ground wire something.

so, i've been looking into doing a cam swap on my '78 when i rebuild the engine (basically stock, with a bit of head work, 6-1 headers and an msa exhaust system) and i was reading up on a site listed earlier and read this think it might be an ok cam for a stock l28? that is, stock efi and everything. i could of course modify a few things like the afm and such, i'm not lookin for much, just somethin to give it a bit more pep than it has haha. oh, btw the cam is from Web Cam Inc.

imo, it would work like a normal injection system, except the fuel/air mix while going into the butterfly's or somethin. there's a guy that tested his dune buggy's injectino system by just hanging an injector above a single barrel carb (with the fuel to the carb disconnected) and it seemed to run fine. I don't see any reason why you can't build them like that.

maybe it could be, that somehow your afm is out of adjustment, and the spring tension is too loose. I found this out with mine, it was so loose it would hardly idle. It ended up being blown loose because the spring clip that holds the gear in place, got shook when the car was running to lean (from a twisted fuel line) and backfired into the AFM.

nope. I bought it from a guy who bought it last year and never did a thing to it except replace the brakelines and fuel lines, along with a few other things, then let it sit. before then, it was in posession of a towing yard for probably 5 years. who knows who owned it before then, but it's never been in an accident and it's very solid, no rust except for some surface rust here and there. but nothin cancerous. BUT. i'm sure a little old lady did own this car one day long ago. it deffinetly hasn't been hammered and beaten. Just burnt by the sun.

I have a 78 280z HLS30-465974 Production date 5/78 First registered 11/78 in Arizona

I'm not sure if my car had any Zeppelin playing. It was a member of M.A.D.D. yeah. it has a Mother's Against Drunk Driving sticker on the right rear quarter window. It also had the jesus fish thing.

oops, i should've said doesn't have it instead of doesn't use it. i implied it doesn't have the switch by saying it doesn't use the switch.

sorry blake, i'm never good at explaining things. when i looked at my plug, the plug has 2 contact points that are empty (no wires leading to them) I know that mine doesn't use the switch, but from my understanding, when the car is running, the switch is opened because the flap has moved. by unpluging the afm from the car, that switch would become an open circuit. that's all i was saying. (or, the easy way would just be shove a screwdriver to push the flap and see if it kicks the pump on.)

that's why i said maybe try unpluging it. that would open the fuel pump circuit, AND the car should run with it unplugged (i've done it before, but it runs like arse)