BenJammin

Never really thought about it... but because of these things I would reckon no self respecting Jew would ever drive a Ford, GM, or any German, Italian, or Japanese made car, eh ? Probably just mainly Volvos, Saabs, and French and British cars (maybe Chryslers too).

Thanks for the info and good luck with your efforts. Maybe it's just a close tolerance feat of engineering to get it where you can pop the glass into the opening [built with and ever so subtle lip] so it can't come back out (?). I can't see how you would ever get the crimping approach to look smooth.

HLS30... I know this is an old thread, but there were replies this year (2012) so I don't seem the harm in this necropost... did you ever find or make a solution to the matching stock passenger door mirror (US market) ?

Cool, glad to see someone from the forums pulled the trigger on these! I've been seeing these on Ebay for awhile and wondering about the quality. Also wondered if they would do true euro style (no holes), so thanks for answering that question too. Would ultimately like to know how they hold up over the long term as far as corrosion (i.e. are they truly the high chromium content they claim?). So please keep us posted and congrats on the purchase!

Yeah, me too if I hadn't had some significant financial setbacks. I make pretty decent money, but I'm behind the curve because 'ca-ca occurs'. So my wife would pretty much plot my death if I went and plunked down $20-$40K on my 'unfulfilled dreams'.

I see your point. I guess if I had lots of extra $$ just sitting around, I might pay significant cash for something like a perfectly restored 1970 Trans Am, or even an early fastback Mustang... because in high school I was DENIED! Yeah, it's true. My car then was a '72 Ford LTD 2dr, kind of an old man's car with the stock hubcaps and all, but all I could afford at $800 that was running. A car that could be cool now,but could've been cool too back then in '81, but I was such a geek, I never saw the potential in it (or maybe because I was a broke geek?). Then there was the limited mentality in my group that it wasn't worthwile unless you started with a 'traditional' muscle car (Camaro, Mustang, GTO, Cuda,etc,etc), anyway... My formative years --> destroyed ! But back to topic. Trouble is, as I've seen for awhile now, nicely restored and original examples on the hotlist of American muscle have always seemed to be appreciating out of my reach, even as my income rose thru the years (could haved afforded maybe, but never justify ), whereas the 240Z I'm building is an attainable/affordable, yet badass, goal.

For $16,500 Congrats to those who called it. I was way off thinking there were crazy people with too much money at those auctions. :paranoid:

Plus, having already had a mention in a major car mag (and a copy presumably available with the car?) is probably worth a little extra for someone who cares about that kind of stuff.

I guess you could be right, my estimate was based on watching a few B-J auctions and seeing how crazy people got over some American muscle cars. But a quick perusal of the prior sale list you posted shows that all those cars were restored or modified in some way. As someone said, if it has the original paint I'll still say it goes over $20K (so what if I'm wrong... I won't be the one paying for it! )

Haven't seen a Barrett J auction in awhile, but they used to get pretty crazy. I'll go higher and say between $25k - $30K

... and they look GREAT! Thanks Jim / z137, that was an awesome thing to do for board members and I truly appreciate the effort. I know what a pain it is to get things coordinated and shipped. Man, I don't think I've enjoyed opening something that much since I was a kid at Christmas time and got my first BB gun (oh, and the Evel Knievel stunt cycle )

There are much better, straighter shells out there for cheap just to start over with and transfer the good stuff. I got a really great one for $500. I couldn't imagine (or justify) the labor cost in getting that beat-up mess back into shape.

Just try buying something from that Ebay seller 'reddat' ("these are the very last ones"). He doesn't list shipping quotes and there's the rub. He rapes you on shipping. Charges Express or Priority prices and then ships parcel post or regular first class. Charged me like $8 shipping on a box it cost < $2 to actually mail... stamped right there on the package. The other side of that coin is he sells mostly quality and hard to find stuff.

$200? Wow! Can I display jealousy and curse you now? I thought I was lucky to find a rust free, NON-running '72 that needs a lot of cosmetics for $500. Just goes to show there's always a better deal out there.

That guy Doug Jacobs at Prosperos/Colorwiringdiagrams is a tool! I ordered one of the 'HUGE' poster size diagrams on October 1st, after almost a month of no delivery and several [un]answered emails he finally responded that he was having problems with the printing company. Okay fine... he even said he would send the smaller 11x17 diagram and refund the difference of what I paid by that weekend. Well, that weekend came and went, still no diagram or refund, and it was at the 45 day limit for filing a dispute with PayPal, so I had no choice but to file it. Now he won't answer any emails and still hasn't refunded the difference or sent the smaller diagram. I will escalate the claim with PayPal soon and hopefully get my money back. What's funny is this guy has relatively great feedback on Ebay, but it appears he randomly and occasionally picks someone to either not deliver or be really slow about it (read the Ebay feedback). Just a warning... I haven't said anything slanderous or untrue (the 'tool' description is just my personal opinion though!)

Yeah, just saw those too, wish he was selling the parts separately. That's the first time I've seen a whole new quarter [but then, I've only owned my Z for three weeks now :classic: ]

Are the later 280z rear quarters EXACTLY the same (as a 240)? Specifically a 76 280z. And I'm talking sheet metal, not interior panels. To me, they look the same on casual observance (haven't had the opportunity to actually measure all the key dimensions on one), but are they truly the same stamp? Point of the question is I need a full quarter going up the rear pillar, but can't seem to find a decent one for the HSL30, so I'm broadening my search. Thanks for any input.

I'm with you cherokee... been searching all weekend (google, this site, multiple others), haven't found ANYONE who has replaced a whole quarter panel and very few who even offer the whole panel (and none new, only used) and still waiting on replies from them. Even searching here for "quarter panel" brings up very little pertaining to the actual process anyone has went thru. Mostly floor pan issues is all I can find.

Choke lever and cables, console, driver side shoulder belt (if there's a difference?), power brake booster & booster check valve.