dcraigbrown

Dan, I don't have an idler pulley. Maybe this is an aftermarket setup. The compressor was installed on the passenger side of the block.

Its located under the dash just right of the steering wheel. It has one round knob in the middle of a black face. I can take a picture of it if the description isn't specific enough.

Ttiger, I sent you a private email.

My 73 240 had an A/C setup when I bought it. It sat for 10+ years and even though it was still sealed I'm sure it was far from a sound system. The first thing I did when I got the car home was pull the compressor out to make room for working on more essential items. Just curious if anyone knows whether A/C parts for a 240 have any value? The are plenty of parts I need and I'd hate to just toss it out if I could get any value out of it. Thanks

Art, I live in Castle Rock, CO. I would be glad to talk about making a deal. I understand shipping would be difficult so wouldn't want you to even try that. Let me know where you are and what you're thinking for price. Craig

Hi, I'm restoring a 73 240z and am in need of hatch glass. I assume 70-73 would fit it. Does anyone have any ideas about the best place to look for this? It may be just as cost effective to get a hatch with glass. Is there an internet listing of wrecking yards specializing in older datsun's? Any help would be appreciated.

Bruce, I hadn't thought about or touched the floats until I saw the front carb dribbling fuel. The front float was noticably higher, or lower if measuring inverted. Thats when I started messing with the floats and digging to get a correct measurement. The car does run 100% better with the floats at least close, I didn't take the precautions you mention to not overpower the needle spring- which I'll do eventually. I've also been yakking in another forum about a bad vacuum adv just too find out my dizzy is only a spinning rod, bearings crunched and mechanical advance rusted and frozen, etc. Oh well, its a project car :-) Craig

Justinr, I plan on going to electronic ignition eventually but trying to save money for the more serious problems at the moment. Do you know anything about the XR-700™ ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM? Its in the Motosport Auto catalog, PN 12-4001. It seems like a good deal at $120.

I'm making progress. Followed your suggestions and the z runs much better. I am still concerned about the float levels. Holding the bowl cover upside down, should the float level be measured at the front, middle, or back of the float. The reason I ask is because I checked the measurement and they're right at about 1/2" at the front. As you move towards the rear of the float the hight decreases significantly due to the angle the bowl rests on the needle. At any rate thanks for the suggestions and information, I'm getting there.

Thanks for all the suggestions. These ar 3 screw SU's. The prior owner gave me an SU tuning manual, "SU-HITACHI Carburetors", Carbooks, inc. There's a hand written note in the back with the words "HS6 1 3/4", same as 1968 Volvo". I did notice that one carb, front, smelled strongly of fuel, there was a small amount of fuel leaking out of the jet nozzle on the bottom, the black plastic fitting that holds the jet nozzle was wet to the touch with fuel. I surmized that the float is possibly adjusted to allow to much fuel into the jet nozzle. Currently I'm trying to figure out what he float adj should be. The SU book I have lists 1/2" for seperate floats and 1/8" for nylon floats with no explanation concerning which one I might have. I can't find specs specific to the HS6 just general specs for SU's varying from 1/2" to 1/8"- very frustrating. As soon as I get the floats right I'll reassemble and go through your recommendation of disabling one carb, etc.

I have a 73 240z that I've been trying to get road worthy. After inspecting the ignition components I discovered the vacuum advance isn't working. After pulling it and giving it the suck test its not leaking but I can't come close to moving it with just lung power. The spring on the arm is so stout I don't know how the diaprham could ever move it. Is this normal? Hope its not trash because these things seem to be a bugger to find. Any help would be much appreciated.

I was able to get the kinks out of the cables and oil them so they operate smoothly. To make sure I didn't get the cable too tight I kept my eye on the nozzles and tightened both cables as tight as they would go with the nozzles still seated. There's quite a bit of play in the choke levers so if the cable is tightened with the choke levers as far as they go in the unchoked position the chokes never engage with the choke (cockpit) lever at the end of its play in the choke position. Sorry, sounds very wordy and confusing after re-reading this post but its hard to explain. Bottom line is that if the nozzles underneath the carbs being completely seated is a good indication that no choke is being applied then a partialy open choke isn't the problem.

Hi, I'm new to the forum and would appreciate any one willing to help a nubie. I just bought a 73 240z for a restore project. This car seems to have all the common problems early Z's are known for, rusted out floorboards, kinked choke cables, runnig rich , etc. I've used the current threads to get me through most of the problems but I'm having a lot of trouble with the SU's. They're round tops, I assume they were swapped out in lue of the infamous flat tops by the previous owner- unless early 73's came with round tops. They'e running extremely rich. While attempting to adjust the mixture I noticed that turning the mixture nut on one carb all the way in made little to no difference in idle speed. Also, while reading a ztharepy article I read (or maybe mis-read) one way to check if the needle is properly seated in the horn to turn the mixture nut in, thereby lifting the horn into the needle until the needle piston moves up slightly and then back down slightly. If this is true then my needles are way out of whack with the mixture horn as they never bottom out. Its also plausible that this would cause a very rich mixture, right? I also discovered the vacuum (not mechanical) advance isn't working. After pulling it and giving it the suck test I couldn't get it to move. I can get the arm to move with some force but the spring on the arm is so stout I don't know how the diaprham could ever move it. Is this normal? Any help would be much appreciated.