d240zx2

Don't know if that's a good title for this, but anyway... An old mechanic suggested I try setting my Mikunis via header tube heat differences. I was having a lean condition with spitting back through the carbs at most any rpm level and at any engine temperature. All the plugs displayed a nice, uniform tan color and I was a bit stumped. Using a touch pyrometer, I discovered vast differences in header tube temps: 385 degrees at the coolest to over 700 at the hottest. Voila! The picturesque "light bulb" cartoonishly drawn over someone's head just lit up. After adjusting the pilots to the same setting as the coolest hole, the problem went away. The subsequent test drive fully confirmed the validity of this method of setting a Mikuni. Next step will be the use of my Unisyn to balance the three carbs a bit closer.... Frank

Yes, I was. Thanks for coming to the rescue!

280 & 240 fenders are different. Notice that 240 fenders have a "cut-out" for the inspection covers while 280 fenders are wider and do not have that cut-out.

Assuming you have the original SU carbs, contact Z Therapy and order the DVD they have for adjusting the carbs. It will save you way more in time and frustration than the cost of the DVD.

I think you would be better served to pull the cover. Since the engine is on the stand, pulling the pan would be easy. Do remove the oil pump and distributor. You can clamp or jam the flywheel whilst removing the vibration dampner/pulley. You can then inspect the tensioner and chain for wear. It's a LOT easier to do this since you have the engine out of the car.

Install a filter. K&N makes one. Leaving the crankcase open to the atmosphere invites all sorts of air-born trash to enter your oiling system. But do NOT block it off.

^^Ditto.

Since I don't drive my Z daily (dammit), I use the following procedure on cold and hot starts. First, I have a Stewart Warner "thumper" electric fuel pump mounted external of the tank at the tank. Mechanical pump has been dismissed. Fuel pressure is 6 psi. Cold: Engage the fuel pump via the ignition key (one detent prior to start) and allow the pressure to build to 6 psi (approximately 5 seconds). Stab the gas pedal 3 - 6 times (depending on how long the car has sat since driven last). Crank. It fires and runs. Elevate RPM to ~2K for a couple of seconds. Mikuni carbs (at least mine) enjoy a bit of temperature, so I allow the engine to warm while at idle for at least two minutes. Hot: Engage the fuel pump the same as above. Crank. Off we go.

Looks good, Ben.

There shouldn't be any issue, providing you've got enough intake stock to handle the reduction in mass. There may be a penalty in fuel/air distribution, however.

It appears that a PO has stripped the black paint. After 40 years of use, the paint on my wheel had begun to pit a bit. I had the metal soda blasted then I applied flat black rattle-can to restore the original appearance. It looks spectacular now!

I think you'll find several notes here that address this issue. Have you exhausted the "search" function?

I certainly like the "concept" 350Z better than what was actually produced.

I rebuilt my calipers and didn't find it too difficult at all. Shortly thereafter, I upgraded to the Toyota calipers. Pretty simple either way you go.

Generally speaking, something getting hot like that is the result of a loose or ill-fitting electrical connection. As beermanpete said, loose dirty or worn out connections will increase resistance in the circuit and cause the problem. The problem being at the switch is, I think, co-incidental to the actual problem.

grantf is "spot on."

What is the link for the side draft forum?

Lookin' good Steve.

Glad to see another '70 gettin' ready...

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2012/01/17/car-spotlight-gt-gt-the-imsa-privateer-240z.aspx I'd love to lay eyes and hands on this one!

Could be worth it. An inspection would say a lot more about it....

Are the brakes OEM/stock? Get an FSM. Make sure the pads/calipers are installed properly. There may be an anomaly or the pads or rotors could be bad. Spend a few minutes with the car on jack stands to look it over.

They should, with minor differences.

Finished installing the bling. Still need the headers to arrive. Looks purdy...

If the flex piece that usually secures the cable is no longer there, zip ties work... I've had to do that w/AC hoses.