d240zx2

I guess, by comparison, I was a bit lazy lately. All I did was admire her.

Since you've been reading here a lot, you already know the typical rust-prone areas, i.e. battery tray and under it, floorboards, etc. If you do succeed in acquiring the car, air up the tires and trailer it home. DO NOT attempt to start the car where it is 'cause you've got a lot of work to do before even thinking about doing that. Your first items of recovery will be the fuel system, cooling system, braking system, electrical system... and not necessarily in that order, but all of them need to be fully functional before you decide to turn the key for real. A lot of work lies ahead of you, but I know you'll enjoy every busted knuckle!

I tried to use a retractable set in my '70. They won't fit. They're designed to fit in an area stamped out to accommodate the bulk of the retractor mechanism, i.e. the "reel." Your situation may be different.

Get your rust fixed first. Second, get your rust fixed. Completely. We can argue about a V8 vs L2x reliability, but you've got a lot of work to do first....

It looks like the bugs are back.... Nice driving, Steve....

Don't necessarily wanna start a bidding war, but....

Sa-weet!

If it were me, I'd shop around some.

Congrats, Ben! I would think a bad booster would result in brakes that required a hard pedal to stop. Is there a bell crank in the mechanical system (between the pedal and booster) that could have been reversed? Just guessing...

She's gonna be pretty! A friend of mine used a laser, or was it water, to cut "260Z" in his side marker lights, very similar to what you're doing. It looked VERY nice, except he didn't get the fill plate exactly flush with the sheet metal. Frank

Take a peek at this link. The omission of 240Z from his application list might indicate either he hasn't any OR you have a set for the other Datsuns listed. http://www.autosportgallery.com/backroom_suspension.html

Hey, Marco, nice to see you're getting into Zs. Your car looks pretty good from the pic, though you'll likely find other issues in addition to what you've already discovered. Keep your end goal in mind and don't get discouraged. Use the search function here liberally, but if you don't find what you're looking for, please, don't hesitate to ask. Glad to have you about.

It won't compare to a set of 40mm Mikunis. 44s would be better, though.

Dad gummit!

Hey, Jim, I wish I'd kept mine for all those years, but I'm one of the lucky ones. Love your paint color!!

Looks like Fred Jordan might not be doing so well. He was the prime support for the museum.

He, Koss, big congratulations to you. When do you expect the car to get to you?

Perhaps I am. I bought my covers 40 years ago and they never had chrome trim. Ever.

All I can tell you is from what I observed when trying to fit the new covers and what my vendor said regarding the "problems" when fitted to 'glass buckets versus steel buckets. When fit flush with the "nose" of the bucket, there's a half-inch gap at the top and an inch gap at the bottom side. Frank

The Mikunis came with a heat shield under the carbs. You can see it in the third photo.

In my view, you cannot beat polished aluminum valve covers. Professionally done, you'll pay ~$125. But you can do it yourself in a few hours and a jug of Mother's. Paint or powder coating (unless you can match body paint exactly) will be garish. Again, just my opinion...

Bolted to the intake/exhaust bolts from the head. I was quite surprised that the heat soak from the head/exhaust didn't boil the fuel, but it's worked quite well since early last summer. This car has never exhibited the vapor lock problems that other Zs have had. I don't really know why, either.

Today's repro covers don't fit the early "plastic"/fiberglass buckets properly. They'll fit the steel buckets, though. I have a set of covers I bought 40 years ago and wanted to replace them (or use modern repros to save them) and the new ones leave about a 1" gap between the cover and bucket near the headlamp. So, if anyone is planning on buying repros, keep that in mind.

I ran a 3/8" hard line from a filtered electric pump at the tank into braided Aeroquip line, through filter, then to fuel block, then to each carb. Gauge installed on block. No return line, no mechanical pump. No heat problems. Fuel pressure <6 psi. Hope this helps. Frank

Well, hey to you, 24 oz. Glad to have you around. Sounds like you've got a pretty nice platform to work with. Looking forward to seeing snaps of your "new" car.