d240zx2

Quick street test... Accelerate to about 30 mph. Do not use the foot brake. Pull the e-brake as tight as you can. Guage the stopping distance. Now do the same thing NOT using the e-brake, but only with the foot brake. Guage the stopping distance. Is there a significant difference? I'd wager there is, Chris. Frank

Ya know, Bart and Mull are quite the artists. Dedicated, intense, imaginative and daring. They know what they want and dedicate their resources to that end. Their Zs will be brilliant in both execution, appearance and performance. It would be our pleasure to see them in person some day. You fellas rock! Frank

You assuredly need an extra leg on that clutch when bleeding the master.... same with the brakes. Gravity will help, but won't totally remove air. It sounds like you've got a lot of air in your clutch, but why your brake reservoir is going down (in relation to clutch issues) is another subject. Frank

Amen to that, Dave. This ethanol myth is helping to ruin our food supply AND reduce fuel economy, all in the name of green. Ludicrous. It's what happens when feelings override fact.:stupid: Frank

Should be no problem, Ray. After all, they're from the government and "they're here to help you." Frank

E30 is a good number. Methinks you may have misread the block number as being an L20. L20 blocks are 4 cylinders. It is quite possible the PO (or prior PO) put an E30 head on an L28 block. 2 cents Frank

You also should check the freedom of movement of your centrifugal advance weights. That can cause a timing fluctuation if they're sticking a bit. Frank

If you're asking about the redline, it's 7 grand....same as other L-series engines. Frank

Hi, Mark. My '70 has the BRE race springs with bigger front sway bar and a 7/8" rear bar. Coupled with Tokiko Illuminas, it's a firm ride and a bit choppy on concrete. :rambo: You might want to consider Eibach springs and I would recommend the Tokiko set-up. Regards, Frank

I have the Pertronix system in my '70 Z. The ballast resistor must remain in play. Frank

I remember the summer of '70. I had had my Z for only a couple of months and the West Texas sun began baking the dash to the point the fumes were coating the inside of the windshield. I had to clean the glass at least once a week, more often with contiguous cloudless days. It appears that Nissan used a volatile component that evaporated from the dash, and I think it likely that the evaporation process has resulted in hundreds or thousands of cracked dashes. Mine hasn't suffered to the degree that others have, due to garaging over the years, but it did require repair. I have also begun using a Meguiar product that seems to soak in quite nicely. After two applications a month apart, the dash has a "looks new" appearance. This isn't an ad for Meguiar's stuff, although I think their stuff is pretty good, but merely an observation on what I think happened and what may prevent future degradation. Frank

I'll second moonpup's assessment of Awesome Z. I've had no dealings with the other shop, but can vouch for Doug. Frank

I persued every suggestion. I replaced both right and left calipers, springs and pins. Still, the problem persists, although to a much lesser degree. I'll be on the track the 17th and 18th and will report back with the results. Thanks to all. The cops gave me a good looking over when I went by their radar trap speeding up, then slowing down, speeding up.....:eek: Should've bought 'em donuts. Frank

Get counselling.

Gas mileage is relative to the weight of your right foot. The lighter the foot, the higher the numbers. Around town, stop sign to stoplight, I get about 12. :(On the road, it's over 20, and that's with triple Mikuni's suckin' air @ 70+mph. If your Z is your get-to-work car, you need to insure all systems are working and adjusted properly, of course. If your Z is a toy, as is mine, then mileage numbers are not necessarily irrelevant, but less important than otherwise would be the case. Regards, Frank

Looks better, no doubt!

xray: The problem began about half-way through a DE session in January. I had installed slotted/drilled rotors in December and was running them for the first time. The left rotor blued during the session, so I swapped back the original solid rotors. The left s/d rotor was 0.009" out of true, the right s/d rotor was 0.000 and OK. Car drives straight on a level road, no problem there. I haven't visually checked the hard lines, but shall. skids280: Pads are relatively new <1000 miles now (stock) and the Hawk "blue" pads had that half DE session in January. It doesn't matter what pads I use, the pull to left remains. I'll try to check the hard lines, rear brake adjustment today and add more info to the mix. Thanks to all. Frank

Carl Beck will probably have all the production information you seek. Chances are he'll see your post and respond. If not, you can visit the website: http://zhome.com/ and search for the information you require. Frank

Arne: The lines are original, as is the proportion valve. The flex lines are braided steel and are about 6 months on the car. I'll give the rear brakes a test tomorrow. Xray: The calipers are relatively new (less than 3000 miles old). Thanks for the ideas. Frank

My '70 has standard brakes. When stopping normally there is no pull. When I get on them aggressively, they pull significantly to the left. Question: Do you think it a caliper problem or a proportioning valve problem or some other demon. Swapping pads left/right and right/left keeps the problem to the left, so it's not a pad problem. Any thoughts? Thanks, Frank

You could also find some kind of oil-compatable dye that would show where it's leaking....

Sounds like the cam towers weren't line bored or shimmed properly. And yes, it does appear you're gonna need a new cam and hardware.... Frank

Why should you have to pound on the cap when the wheels are alleged to not have a fitment problem? Koenig should have a bit longer cap available to solve this problem, and not require their customers to deform any part of the car in order to make them fit properly. Just my 2 cents. Frank

Anything around 150 should be pretty good. BUT... If you do the test incorrectly, you'll get a false reading. First, remove all plugs and disconnect your coil wire. Second, wedge the throttle wide open. Third, crank the engine sufficiently to circulate oil. Fourth, take your reading. Others may have variations on this, but it'll get you your answer. Based on your earlier post, I don't think compression is your problem. I'd look to valve seals first, then rings. Regards, Frank

PS: The same thing happend to mine. I didn't replace the hinge, but beat the thin metal back into shape with a long drift. It's not factory, nor will it retain a spring, but it still works. Frank