d240zx2

'70 Z. My tach is seating at 200-300 reading when the engine is turned off. It gradually seats to zero after about 30 seconds and/or when I tap the dash. Is this a matter of a failing tach or is there dirt in the way somewhere? Coil connection is tight. Would you assume or speculate that I should use the added 200 - 300 rpm reading when determining actual red-line? Thanks for your help! Regards,

'70 Z. The FSM is silent on this subject. Do any of you have any suggestions on how to keep the boot skirt tucked in to the console? Thanks for your assistance. Regards, Frank

Great looking car! It's quiet, too. Are those white boxes bee hives? Regards,

I'm thinking rings, but could be head gasket. Have you smelled your exhaust lately? You can definitely get a whiff of the ethylene glycol at the exhaust pipe if you've got a gasket failure. And as Fun asked, what does "high rpm" mean in tach numbers? Frank

You may find some help at HybridZ forums. I'm a six-in-a-row guy.

Sounds like you may just have invented one, Paul. Draw it up and let us kibbitz...

The adjustment should be able to be made when hot/warm. If not, you need to replace some parts. Frank

I agree with Steve...this video will help you sell a car you don't want to sell.:stupid: Frank

Without putting the car on a dyno, I doubt anyone would be able to "seat of the pants" tell you. Even air horns w/no filter only gives marginal improvement over filtered air. Other than appearance, I would see no advantage. FWIW, Frank

You probably can, but you'll need to replace your pads with thicker ones as the non-lifting diameter will be reduced during the grind process. It'll probably be easier and a bit more precise to acquire a cam ground from billet. Frank

Hi, Arne... I've often wondered about the cut-off date on that valve cover. My 01/70 build has the 2400, but others I've seen (late '70, '71) have the OHC version. Has there been any set date established for that of which you are aware? Regards,

I've heard "Poor man's Porsche" since I was sixteen. That was in 1960. It referred to the Karman Ghia versus the venerable 356C and variants. I've driven both thousands of miles, and the 60/61/62 Ghia, when equipped with dual Webers, nearly performs as well as the 356. And cost about a third. FWIW Frank

You should have a quickly revving motor, but I would be cautious above 7500 with the short-throw crank....you'll likely run out of gas much beyond that, anyway. :dead: Frank

Sounds like a coil failure. $15 will replace it...

Yep, it's your master vac. Scrap it and get another one. Regards,

The fumes in my '70 were so bad I had the hatch vents welded shut in '75. Absolutely TERRIBLE fume problem. CO headaches all the time. :dead: When I got the car back a year ago, I decided to re-open the vents and try some other stuff just to see if I could get it to stop killing me. I installed an air dam from MSA and found an IMSA style three piece spoiler at my Z guru's shop. Went stacked on a 3 into 2 exhaust system (twice pipes?) So far, so good. I have not had any exhaust-in-cabin problem at all. But since all of the work's been done, I've got a pretty good fuel fume problem, especially after fill-up. I'm going to use that 3M gasket stuff once I can get the interior panels off to inspect everything. Regards,

First, unless the car is running poorly or the engine is missing, stuttering, etc., I wouldn't suggest going into the dizzy with your admittedly low skill and knowledge level. Let a pro handle that until your abilities and tool chest are up to it. You can change the plugs and plug wires just fine, just remember to take one wire off and put the new one on before taking off another. You'll need a 13/16 spark plug socket. Remove the plugs. When installing the new NGK plugs (do not use other brands...they'll last about a week), make sure the gap between the L-shaped electrode and the center part is correct per your FSM. Do not overtighten when installing the spark plug and make sure it is seated squarely in the socket otherwise you could crack the porcelain insulator when tightening. Tighten until snug, then just a little bit more. The "little bit more" compresses the washer sufficiently to prevent combustion gas leaks. Typically the air filter is what you'll find inside the air cleaner. Others can chime in with additional recommendations. Regards,

There may be a difference between 240s and other S30s. My 70 requires Zero offset, else an expensive alignment is called for. Frank

SS is notable for its ductility, which you've just ably demonstrated. Good write-up. Frank

A-ha! Technology can't get best of this old Okie! Here is the snap. Frank

I've had this under-carb tray on since the early 70s. It's a pretty good insulator from the header and there are no interference problems. Regards, Frank PS: I took a snap of it, but can't get the paper-clip thingy to work.

Abusing a Z won't win you too many friends around here. Besides, you need to know how to spell the name of the car you're trying to destroy.:mad: Frank

AZ-240Z: Got a 404 on the link, but anyway... My '70 has the drain plug on the passenger side. It's the original pan. No cracks or anything and I drive the h - e - double hockey sticks out of it.:cheeky: Frank

WingZro, #72... What is the IZCC link? I'd like to register 00721. Thanks, Frank

Call Doug Bakke at Awesome Z in Houston....281.219.0015. He may have what you need. Frank