d240zx2

Part of an email sent to my step-son today after getting back to earth.:laugh: Damn! You sure missed a good time! The Z was strong, weather was on-and-off, but doable. My lap times dropped with every 20 minute session....until I fried the brakes. I'll get some "machining" pads and get the rotors back true, then put some really good race pads on for the next time. Proper tires would be of great value as well. Ah, well, dreams. What follows is a brief description of the course, at speed: Coming off the back straight at 115-120 then dropping the nose with a hard stab on the brakes to get to about 90, downshift into third while turning left (turn 1) a bit, then hard on the brakes to 60, then, still turning left toward the apex on turn 2, back hard on power, track out, then to left of track up to 95, hard brakes, steady throttle through the right turn (3) at about 60mph. Track out under full throttle, missing the pylon by inches. Hard brakes again. Up the rise and to the right. Clip apex on 4 at 70, track-out. Back to the right of the track. Left, holding center of track at turn 5 @ 60. See the dirt road. Stab the brakes, dive left at full throttle past apex of 6 and track out. Keep it in third toward turn 7. Taching 6700/95mph, tap the brakes again and literally dive left into the 90 degree, on-camber turn 7 at full throttle (close to 90 again). Up over the rise, center of track. Hard on brakes, then left (turn 8), then right (turn 9) at full tilt boogie. Down into the "carousel." Hard brake to 50mph, center of track, downshift to 2nd, hold steady throttle, bend hard to right, clip the apex on 10 right, then full power past apex 11 on left, shift into third still at full power....nail the brakes, left turn to 12, then back on 80% power in third. Brake hard, downshift to 2nd, hug inner left curb, apply power, tail end comes in, turn right and let off power (tail comes out) for perfect line up for apex of 13. Full throttle with slight steering inputs to clip apex of 14 & 15. Somewhere in there, hit third. Then onto main straight and do it all over again. Whew! What a ride. Bear in mind that all this takes place in just over two minutes. My lap times dropped from nearly three minutes to that in these two days. And yes, there were 'Vettes and TT SRT-10 Snakes and 500 rwhp 300zxs and 350Zs turning 1:45 laps. Fords got dusty. Not bad for an old man and an old car, eh? Oh, well, I had a blast. Regards,

My car's twin, or kissin' cuzzin, is on Ebay right now, starting bid at $2500. :surprised http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-Datsun-240Z-1970-Datsun-240Z-2572-An-amazing-find_W0QQitemZ160180983282QQihZ006QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Well, I did all of what you fellas have described. The shims put the brackets into the hood, and the rubber between the bar and valve cover moves around and eventually removes itself from the troublesome location. Without hearing from MSA, I took the proverbial bull by the proverbial horns. I asked an expert. He'd not seen quite the interference fit I was experiencing, so was a bit puzzled as well. We finally put his press to work and deflected the portion of the bar by about 0.5 inch. It's a little "unique" to adjust, but appears to be equally as functional as a straight one. I'll post another note on this after this week-end's track days should anything untoward happen as a result of the bent bar. Thanks for your input. It's appreciated. Regards,

Go shop shopping. I don't know how big your Ytown is, but I'd bet there are several shops there that could do your paint work. Is there another town of any size somewhat nearby? Scout them/it out, too. It's best if you can find someone that knows restoration, rather than a bump and dent shop. You'll get better service and quality....but the $$ may be some more. Check out local car clubs for recommendations for a shop. Those are the guys that KNOW good painters and those to avoid. Best of luck. Regards,

I've got a problem that Motorsport hasn't seen yet. The single aluminum, strut to strut bar rubs on my valve cover. I've checked the motor mounts and they are the correct height (compared to new), the bar brackets are correct, the bar is correct. The only thing that may be odd is the brackets that bolt to the engine block and the motor mounts may be different for 1970 Zs as compared to other, later years. Shimming the bar brackets only dings the underside of the hood. Motorsport says that in the '72 & '73 Zs they have to work with, up to 1" clearance is achieved, with about 1/2" being the minimum. Does anyone have a clue as to what the problem might be? Regards,

Taikaki, I didn't have to elevate the engine in my '70 at all. It was tight, no question, but the gasket swap went pretty smoothly. Please adhere to other suggestions here about wiping down and cleaning out the pan, sealer, etc. Regards,

Nicely done, sir. Good lookin' car, too.

Red dog, my '70 is equipped w/trips, cam & headers and stock 4 speed and driveline. I just found that it tops out at 130 mph @ 6700. It will pop 60 in less than six, even with weak synchros. My local Z guru estimates between 225 & 250 hp and I'll be testing that hypothesis within sixty days at a dyno shop. Oh, BTW, the sound is incredible! Regards,

To those not familiar with Houston roads, apologies. Yep, I had that much fun! The day started fine. Temp about 65, mild wind <5 knots. Sparse traffic on 45. Jumped over to the Hardy at BW8 for the run to 610. Paid my buck-fifty and tip-toed away from the toll booth. Got past the sweeping chicane about half a mile down and the road straightened out. The Z was making music! I topped the overpass on the last curve of the chicane at about 70. No cars for at least half a mile. My right foot got terribly heavy. The Mikuni carbs roared and the Z sang. I glanced at the tach: 6000 and climbing. Over to the speedometer: 120 and climbing. Traffic a lot closer. I lifted back to 80. As the traffic became smaller in the rear view, again, no cars for at least half a mile. Down it went again. Quick glance: 6200 and 123. Still down: 6700 and 130. I would have shifted into 5th, but a 4-speed doesn't have one. Traffic. Lifted to 80 again, and stayed there. Off at 610 onto 59 South, through downtown and to 45 South, all at legal speeds. Stopped for breakfast at Denny's in South Houston, then on to the Z Club rendezvous point at Almeda Mall. Met up with three other Z Club families, chatted a bit, then caravanned down to GrandSport Speedway near Hitchcock, Texas. A bunch of ol' boys with tons of money have created a couple of real nice road courses out of the old WWI & WWII blimp base. New asphalt. That's about the extent of the facilities except for the porta-potties. There will be more. I only had half of my "15 minutes of fame" doing "parade laps" behind a pace 'Vette. Pulling the old accordian trick, lagging behind the car in front of you to allow sufficient distance to build in order to punch it out through a couple of corners...I had some fun. Never got over 65, which was expected, but I wanted more than 8 minutes of track time. The Z was a willing participant, an "enabler," (to use modern psychobabble) if you will. As both the Z and yours truly are over 21, and the act was consensual, there was no crime. But it felt too good to be legal. I'm hooked, I'm afraid. Dammit. There goes the budget! I can see myself standing at an intersection with a bucket and sign that says "Race car needs tires!" At least I have a job, dude! Next week-end will afford the opportunity for some REAL track time at Texas World Speedway. I'll have an instructor and will look like a real race-car-driver 'cause I'll have to wear a helmet. The Z and I won't be the fastest team out there, but I'll be having the most fun, I'll gaurantee ya! And no, I'm not gonna put my eye out or wreck and kill myself. That's not fun. Besides, I'd miss Baby Thu too much if I did that. A motto from the 70s: Arrive Alive at 55...Ok. What's the multiple? Regards,

I've seen photos of various Zs in the paint shop. Some have the doors off, some have the doors on and fenders off. Some have all detachable parts off and variations on that theme. My question: Why the differences? Mine was painted with the fenders/sugar scoops, cowl & inspection panels off, the doors, hood and hatch on. Yours was painted differently. I wonder why... Regards,

Sounds like a good program to me. Let me know how it works out as I'm considering the same thing once I blow up my 2.4. Regards,

Ok, I'll share my ignorance with the rest of you.... It sounds like a partial fuel blockage or failing fuel pump. Here's why I think that. 1) The revs are limited when the engine is under more stress, e.g. 3000 rpm in 4th and accelerating v. 7000 rpm in 1st. 2) The problem diminished with time at speed, which allowed the diminished fuel flow to gradually produce the additional BTUs required to propel the car at higher speeds. I think the problem may still be there, albeit disguised in lower gears. I would check fuel filter(s) and fuel pump output. Also check return lines for blockage. Take two aspirin and call me in the morning. Regards,

I really don't think that one year will be sufficient for any significant amount of deterioration to occur, John. My calipers and rear cylinders were replaced after just 35 years. That's why I say one year shouldn't be a problem for you. Regards,

Have you tried www.datsunrestore.com? Troy might be able to help you.

Since your leak-down test failed on #4, I'd say that your compression ring is shot. Drop the pistons, re-ring 'em, new bearings/seals, hone the cylinder walls with a good strong etch. Do a good valve job w/ new seals, too. Put it back together and I'd wager your problem will be over for at least another 100K miles. FWIW

From your description, it sounds as if there is metal contacting metal. A cam lobe slapping the lash pad is possible. There could also be a valve stuck partially open, allowing the high part of the cam lobe to slap the pad. There's a product here in the states that I've used for many years that may take care of the problem if there is a valve sticking issue....Marvel Mystery Oil. I know, the name sounds like a snake-oil concoction, but it really can work wonders. Just add a pint to the crankcase and let it idle for half an hour. Further, have you tried isolating the sound using a stethoscope or stethoscope-type device? By listening through the valve cover, you may be able to discern which cylinder is creating the sound and diagnose from there. Just a few suggestions... Frank

It appears from the photos of the book and actual tang position that you're off a tooth clockwise. I'd reposition the shaft. I had a similar experience with my L24 about 5 months ago. Regards, Frank

Regarding post #7. They're plastic.

Most of you know that my Z is old. Real old. So are the headlight covers I bought to put on it in '72. Just now got around to it. Now I find that the right cover has "grown." Yep, it's too wide for the scoop, and extends out about 3/8" from the scoop edge. The right cover is perfect. Question: Would judicious use of a heat gun and a bit of constant pressure bring the cover back in line with the scoop edge? Anyone with any sort of experience in that regard??? Regards,

I've had very good luck with Troy Thacker (www.datsunrestore.com) in getting any sort of weatherstripping or other odd Datsun parts. He sells both Nissan and Precision rubbers, and recommends the Nissan for doors, Precision for most anything else. Plus, he'll bend over backwards to get you what you need when you need it. He's on my "A" list. FWIW Frank

I've had pretty good success with Busch Aluminum wheel cleaner from MSA. The spray smells a bit like muriatic/hydrocloric acid and works pretty well. The 2nd and 3rd stages of compound really do the trick, too. I polished up my L24 valve cover this morning and can almost shave in its reflective capability now. My 37 year old Fenton aluminum slots are deteriorating via the "flake" method and the Busch stuff cleans 'em up pretty nice. FWIW Frank

I think "oodles" is a bit of an understatement. You've done quite a bunch there. Looks good, too.

Great news, Antonio!

Great news, Antonio!

Great news, Antonio!