d240zx2

Tell us more about the Tail of the Dragon....

Yeah, my Z will be in a car show tomorrow. Expected high of about 78. Frank

Back when dirt was new, I installed headers on my '70. They were smogged (couldn't get the other kind then) so I plugged 'em with NPT brass plugs. They're still there. The header was a three-into-two system and I ran dual exhausts out the back, centered, just like the old Jaguar XKE's used to do. Loved the sound. It says "Get ready!" I've retained the old "mufflers" and installed stackers out the left side. See comparative photos. The sound is still the same, but it now looks better and more complete.

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Hello, Kwame. You'll find lots and lots of experience here. There are engine experts, electrical wizards, driving champions and just plain old folks like me that enjoy their Zs. Welcome to Z club...

Hello, Bob. Zs don't float. Did yours make it OK?

Can-o-worms with that question. What is the intended purpose of your Z? Around town driver? Racer? AutoX? For most purposes, the standard brakes are just dandy. For higher performance applications like autox or racing, you'll need to go a bit deeper, like with drilled/slotted rotors, disc brake rear conversion, different pads, etc. More information is needed before information can be given.

Thanks, Tony and everybody. I checked the carbs/manifold. Nothing except the vacuum port for the brakes. As this set-up was bought and installed more than 30 years back, no memory of purchase details remain. I'll try to find the parts I'll want to make a clean installation of an additional vacuum port, teed off the existing port. I'll post photos when it's done to get opinions on what I could change or do better. As for the cam...it runs scary fast now, what does a 63 year-old guy need with anything more? Thanks again. Frank

Thanks, fellas. That cam information is invaluable. I finally solved the problem....I think. But may have created another. I advanced the timing sufficiently to eliminate the sub-2000 rpm hesitation. But by doing so, I think I am compromising the rest of the timing advance. The Mikuni manifold has only one available port for vacuum, and it's going to the MasterVac. Does anyone know of a source for a vacuum fitting that will allow the MasterVac to continue to operate properly while permitting a vacuum hose to go to the distributor? The fitting into the manifold is 1/4" NPT. I hate to think of pulling the manifold to drill and tap another, single-purpose hole.

Will grandkids count? All my kids rode on the hood. Passenger side. Face down. Screaming.

I don't think a v-6 tranny will bolt to an L-series engine. Others may have differing facts. As common as those trannys are, it'd probably be cheaper to replace rather than rebuild. Frank

Back when dirt was new, a 3/4 cam meant 3/4 from stock to full race grind. I've got 3/4 of a full race grind cam....or at least that's what I was led to believe at the time. Now we come to the meaning of "full race," don't we? Does that mean the cam grind that's used on really fast Z L-xx race engines or is it merely another marketing term with tenuous definitions anchored in whimsy? If a Stage V is "full race," does that mean a Stage I is a 1/5 race cam? Lordy, it's gettin' way too complicated for this old brain to figger out. Someone needs to modify Wikipedia to settle this thing. Frank

I was discussing cams this morning with my Z guru. I have a BRE 3/4 race cam (old terminology) and was discussing a brief hesitation on launch at below 2000 rpm. I was curious as to whether the cam could cause or contribute to it. Saying that he'd need to know the lift and duration of the cam to reply intelligently, I asked if he might know the equivalent in the new terminology, i.e. Stage I, Stage II, etc. He doesn't. Would any of you? BTW, I installed a Pertronix electronic ignition package and the hesitation almost disappeared. I think a slight timing adjustment would smooth that out pretty nicely. But I'd still like to know where the 3/4 race cam fits with today's terminology. Thanks, Frank

Those guys sure like to rev their motors a lot. Sounds like an angry dog getting ready to chomp.

All you need is a paint code. Then take it to your local auto paint store and they'll either have it on the shelf or will mix it up for you. Quite a science, paint mixing. Frank

Juergen! What an excellent color choice you made. You ought to make a poster of the upper left photo. That is superb in every way. Enjoy driving your Z in the homeland of the Porcedes.

Hi, Dave. You may presume I'm no electrical expert. But I do know that all electric current travels on the outer surface of its conduit. Since a larger diameter wire has more surface area with which to conduct the current, I'd go with as large a wire as is available. FWIW, Frank

Hi, David. Unless I misread your post, you bought "T" speed-rated tires. If I am correct, that's a bit low for the capability of your Z...unless you're old like me and just want rubber. Frank

Too many $$ later, here's Ol' Goldie....

Thanks, Phred. I'll check with Nissan to see if the 7-CW cranks are available still.

Sure. That sounds like a reasonable way to do it. Just remember that you'll need a guide or bending mandrel of some sort when making your bends, otherwise you're gonna kink the new line.

That looks awfully good, sir. Maybe this time next year you'll be driving it.

You boys and girls out on the left coast take care of yourselves and family first. Then take care of your Zs. Here in the Houston area we are subjected to hurricanes once in a while. My evacuation vehicle will be the Z car. The others ain't worth as much and aren't nearly as much fun to drive. The wifey, the cat and a few changes of clothes and off we'll go. May God watch over you.

Dad-gum good sentiment, janaka!

My old '70 was built back when Datsun was using 5 counterweight crankshafts. They're good and solid....up to a point. That point being about 7500 rpms. Then they pull the amoeba trick and become a two-piece crankshaft. After this problem was discovered, it was corrected by installation of 7 counterweight cranks. Problem solved....go for 8 grand or higher. Question: What modifications to the block are required to install a 7-CW crank in lieu of the 5-CW OEM crank? Any other parts or pieces that need to be changed?