d240zx2

Everything worked before I plugged in the LED taillights and flasher and everything works after I changed back. Guess I'll wait 'til Dave gets back from MSA to ask more. Thanks for the thoughts.

I tried both sides of the flasher. Got a buzzer going off with one configuration, nothing with the other. The hazards cause one LED taillight to fully blink, while the other only lights up about a third.

I removed the Dave Irwin LED taillights from 721, planning to install in the "new" Z. Brought along the LED flasher that worked in 721, too. Guess what? They no workie! The "new" Z is a 10/70 '71. Any thoughts or comments, 'cause I'm stumped?

Also remember that three things are required before an engine will start and run: Fuel, air and spark. If one or more of these three things is out of whack, you've got your situation.

The single best thing I ever did for 721's performance. Greatly improved starting and driveability. Stock coil w/ballast resistor bypassed. No problems at all.

MSA has an upgrade for this that provides modern blade fuses instead of the old glass fuses. It's well worth the price. I doubt you have a wiring issue.

Cut about 2" off the end with the hole in it. Then slide the scabbard back over the belt and attach at the floor using the 16mm bolt. The section you'll have cut off allows the flex you'll need to point the receiver end in the right direction.

Pics of when I "took delivery" of the Z in '07 and of the last photo before it's death.

Stephen, you have turned a good Z into an outstanding Z. When I first saw your Z, I was impressed. I cannot begin to imagine the before and after of your efforts. From appearance to performance, you have done it all and have done it well.

Welcome, Sir. Post up some pictures of your Z. We all love to look at ANY Z!

Beauty! Resembles my 10/70 721 replacement.

The panel needing removal is under the filler in the wheel well, not in the interior. Sorry for the confusion.

Search for a subject called "awakening the sleeping beast," or similar. You will find in that thread a thorough and complete list of things to do, in which order and in some cases, how to do them. I'd do that before even washing the car.

Not a difficult task. I just removed my rear bumper and steering wheel yesterday. IIRC, the bumper bolts are 14mm, the steering wheel requires a 23mm. You'll need to remove the panel on passenger side under the gas filler to gain better access to the right side bumper bolts. Frank

I've got a set I pulled off today.

That's what I'm thinking, Carl. Just gathering some ammo to get my bride to agree to the 1300 mile run. It'll be a butt breaker but should be fun, too.

Dropped the gas tank, filler neck, taillights out, weatherstripping out, interior panels out. Tomorrow the engine comes out.

I've got a complete set from the doors back from 721 (01/70) for sale. No cracks.

That's a good way, but look carefully at the outer mounting holes. They're threaded.

If a 01/70 build maplight will work, I've got one.

I used the original bolts. No hardware package. I did find it necessary to cut off about 2" of the inboard scabbard to allow for some belt twist, though. Other than that, it's a 10 minute install.

WELR-N is the right number. I was using the number off their packing list. Sorry.

If any of you have the non-retractable seat belts in your older Z and want to upgrade to a non-intrusive retractable belt, here is some good news! I found a roof-mount retractable that will not interfere with your seat. Works like a champ. Go to wescoperformance.com and take a look at their part number 800566 3-point retractable. $64.95 + tax and shipping. It works!

Bumping

You can use spray adhesive for a semi-permanent fix. Or use some drawer liner rubber betwixt the carpet/backing and floor. That might work as well.