d240zx2

I know of no sources for new ones, but you might ask a few chroming shops if they chrome plastic parts.

I'd suggest saving yourself a lot of grief and junk the lines. New ones aren't THAT difficult to run. Drop and have the tank professionally cleaned. Don't forget the fuel return lines. I'm a great believer in Stabil. My Z started on 10 year-old gas only because (I believe) the tank was filled with gas and about a gallon of Stabil added prior to storage. Don't misunderstand...the car didn't run all that well, but it did start and run. Maybe it needed two gallons of Stabil??? Frank

Yes. Dump and replace the oil and coolant. Remove the valve cover and pour your first quart over the entire length of the camshaft. Then you can reinstall the cover and add the other quarts. Check the coil for oil leakage. Replace if messy. Crank for about thirty-forty seconds in ten second bursts without the coil wire plugged in to the coil. This will get oil where it needs to be AND will exercise the water pump. Assuming your fuel is clean and fuel filters are new, the carbs half-way close to adjustment, timing somewhat close, etc., reconnect the coil wire and attempt to start. Be quite mindful that water pumps fail easily after sitting unused for a while, so watch diligently for fluid leaks and shut down when/if you see one. Best of luck! Frank Owner of a '70, too.

Either way with the POR-15. I've not sprayed it, but there are instructions on doing it that way. It brushes on pretty nicely, too.

William, You mentioned above you had 5-speeds and R200s just littering your garage, so to speak. Would you have an '81 - '83 ZX 5 speed in good, serviceable condition? Would you also have the R200 3.7 or 3.9 (LSD prefered) and other required pieces? If so, please PM me with the prices you have established. Thanks, Frank

There was a modified S30 on Ebay about three-four weeks back. Alcohol-fueled V-8 single-purpose 1/4-mile racer. Is that the one you're thinking of?

Since your brights/dims are controlled by the turn signal lever and your turn signals don't work, I think I'd look at the turn signal switch first.

Where do you have a listing posted as to what parts are available?

A Week? Just for paint, that's a long time. For disassembly, prime/blocking filling, etc., it's a very short time. And after paint, there's wet sanding, buffing, reassembly, etc. My Z was "promised" in 4 weeks. It's been 8. It's gonna be out tomorrow if'n I have to steal it! Hope Ray is right.

I think I remember seeing it at Sears Hardware. I'm sure auto stores would have it as well.

Mine's a '70, original glass, two chips, no cracks. A bit blasted, but nothing severe. The glass guys are re-installing after removal for paint. I'll let you know if something goes awry. Frank

Idle RPM? I've found with my Mikuni-Solex trio that I've had to increase idle speed about 250 RPM. Although that requirement may have something to do with the performance cam installed, it might be worth looking into. Frank

Does a 1981 280ZX non-turbo 5-speed come equipped with an R200 LSD or merely an open differential? Thanks in advance, Frank

Oh, yeah! Nice wheels, sir.

Stephen, re #16. You are probably correct in the flywheel weight. It's been 60 days since I hefted mine and never did weigh it. It didn't feel that heavy to me at the time, but maybe I was feeling extra good that morning. Frank

Hope these will help... Frank

If I'm not mistaken, my '70 flywheel weighs about 13 pounds. I replaced the clutch in August and had the flywheel resurfaced. The loss of roughly a pound of metal did have an effect on driveability in the sense that the shifts need to be completed more quickly to maintain smoothness than with the heavier, un-resurfaced unit. Frank

#721 , 01/70 build, has light tinted glass all around. Rear de-fogger hatch glass and original windshield. Carl Beck may be able to answer your questions more specifically. Frank

Ok, Thanks! I found a Corel program and resized. Let's see if it works.... This was taken before going to paint jail.

Ok, then how do I reduce the size of the photos to be able to share them here? They were taken at 2288 x 1712. Frank

A Chilton manual should help. Also you should try to find an original factory service manual. They're hard to find, though. If you have a shop locally that specializes in Zs, stop by and take a look at what they may be working on. That will help, too. Frank

Hi, Mike. I tried to post a .jpg earlier and couldn't get it to go. What is the correct procedure for doing that? Frank

I think the manifold is a curved one. It appears to have an "s" curve between the carb and head. Has anyone else noticed this? The manifold is certainly not one I've seen before. Frank

Sorry, couldn't get a photo to send properly. Frank

Well, shucks. It's just a story of a guy and his car. Thanks for the accolades, guys. And yes, the VIN is pretty low, HLS30-00721, build date 01/70. My engine is original, still with the old 5 CW crankshaft. No 8 grand shifts for me. I've never posted pics here before, but I'll try to put one up of the car before it went to "paint jail." I like that term, too. Thanks again. Frank