240dkw

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/step-map-lamp

I always wondered if they are for the step lights that show up in the parts list, but I have never seen on a car. I know there is a knockout on the cardboard for the door panels that may be for them, I just don't know how the wiring would get from the cab to inside the door. There is no sign of a passthrough from the pillar to the door. The pockets seem about the right size a light.

I tried that on a tank and all it did was deform the flat areas on the top long before it pushed out any dents and ruined the tank.

I have had several sets apart and have never seem any trace of the yellow zinc. You would think that the inside of the mating surface between the two haves would still have some finish left if that was the case. I was"t looking for it, just don't remember seeing any.

My tank sat on a shelf for the better part of two years before I cut it apart so I did not worry about gas vapours. I used a cutting wheel as close to the seam as I could get without cutting through the bottom part. The only problem with a sawzall is that the blade will catch on the baffle plate and maybe on of the tubes, that is why I went with the wheel. The tank is made of a heavier gage steel so blowing through was not problem like it is on the body steel. I did use a respirator rated for lead fumes when I did the welding with both doors open in the garage and a good cross ventalation. as these tanks had a lot of leaded gas in them I did not want to take in any fumes.

Yes it is called resistance seam welding I think they used a toothed wheel to make the crimps as it welded

whee! doing it the way I did it would be simple to hammer out the folds and make it look good.

It is not a spot welded pice. It is more of continuos seam weld. It looks like a toothed wheel was used to press and weld it together so there is no leaks. It would be impossible to separate it. It was much easier to do what I did. I did the cut and weld on the top so you cannot see it once the tank is on the car.

This is what I did to my tank. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?p=430870

Dan Don't forget the large red paint mark on the tranny

I am sure it is stainless, I just used a very blunt chisel about a inch wide and when around the edge slowly unfolding a bit at a time. I seem to remember it taking a few trips around the edge. You should have a easier time if the glass is already broken.

Yes the mirror can be removed. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/41055-refreshing-a-drivers-mirror/

No I have found one yet, if you only have one please keep it for 147. I appreciate the offer. Jim got most of my spare parts that where left over from my project when i moved so I do not have much to help you with.

Looks like a great starting point. I will enjoy following this build.

It is stock tubing diameter. Patcon did you notice if there were resonators as well. I might like to try one of them.

Lon I have the Abarth on my car. I bought it off of a member here and only have the muffler. I am using the stock resonator so I do not know how much difference that will make. It is a touch on the loud side, but with a nice deep sound. I have had a few people surprised that it is the stock motor when they hear it run. As well I think it is a very nice looking setup. Here is what it looks like on my car. Dan

Joe: this thread has a couple of photos. it is a 07/70 so a couple of wires might be different. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44577-dash-harness-routing/

Here is what the heat shield looks like with no riser.

OK I was wrong, it looks like it unscrews. See this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39699-antenna-mast-plastic-string-replacement/

Why do you need to remove it, the nylon wire crimps to the bottom of the last rod. I think you can attach it without taking it apart. Do a search on it and a few people have repaired them without taking the sections apart.

Sean240Z is 100% correct. Although not in a Z I have done that drive from the Badlands National Park to Red Deer, Alberta and it is as good a he said. Enjoy the drive and keep us posted.

In need of the chrome ring around the cig lighter in the ashtray.

No I think you are correct in saying you need a tank, it is surprising as the build date is so early. It will be hard to find a plastic one. Yes that is the flow valve I mentioned. As well that is right the 90 degree bend tube would not be there

Yes there should be a few things. If there is no evap tank there will only be a fuel and return gas line, if there is a tank there is a third line the same size as the return line. There would be a flow valve which the line attaches to mounted on the drivers side fender wall. As well the large vent pipe that comes out of the side of the block will have a small tube that connects to the flow valve and if it does not have the vapor recovery system there is no small pipe.

The connections on your gas tank should show if there is a evaporator tank or not. Here is a good thread on CDN - US differences http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36539-early-240z-gas-tank/