240dkw

Blue: I would try looking at a Art store for the display boards that are used for things like science fairs. I use it for templates when I am doing a woodworking project. It is high density foam, tough and comes in black. Dan

Arne: I know it is a assumtion but I was looking at the drawing Blue posted in this thread today "Need pic of stock coil and resistor setup" and although it does not show the coil condenser it does show the double male connecter on the + post which is as far as I know is to connect the condenser. Dan

Oranngetang: I have a extra switch if you need one. PM me if you want. You car is from out of province, is it a Canadian car? I ask because it is earlier than mine (HLS3006513) yet it has the extra emissions stuff on in. If you don't mind what is the build date on the plate on the drivers door jam. Yes it has been repainted by the look of the overspray on the fuel and brake lines in the engine bay.

oranngetang: welcome and post photos as soon as you can. What is the vin. You will find all of the help you need on this site.

Just watched the TSN special up here in Canada on the 2010 Tagra Newfoundland and it was worth the watch. It is more about the guys from The Trailer Park Boys show driving in the race than the race itself. Not much of a Trailer Park fan, but "Bubbles" owns a 240Z so he can't be all bad. There was some footage of the 240Z that crashed last year as well, It was a bit sad to watch a Z meet a water filled barrier at high speeds.

I have had success getting a couple of stuck tachs to work again by opening them up and lubricating the movement. There is a tension adjustment on one end of the pivot points as well. I am not sure what kind of tach a non North-American 1977 260z would use, but if they are both 4 wire it should work.

Arne: this does look promising, are you going to try the positive side of the coil or leave it alone if it works well. Dan

Arne: I measured a couple of capacitors that I have and they are a .47 uF , so the part number ncc nc-47ct-a2 150v.47m equates to a 150V dc, .47 uF capacitor. (.47M, .47 uF, .47 micro Farad are all the same thing) If you want see if it is the cause of any of your problems you can this size of capacitor at any electronics store. It would not look correct, but will work for troubleshooting. As well, I was wrong about what the cap is used for. as near as I can tell, it is there for the reason you first eluded to, noise suppression for the radio. Which does not explain why it will not run without it? I dug through my part boxes and found 6 coils and 4 have it on the + terminal and 2 have it on the - terminal. Dan

Arne: I did some quick reading as to what the Capacitor/condenser (same thing) is for on the coil and it looks like it is used to boost the voltage of the primary windings. I wonder if the newer hi-output coil would work without it?

Arne: That's Odd, mine is on the positive side. The sticker on it reads "ncc nc-47ct-a2 150v.47m" I bought this car in a non-running state so I can not tell you if mine is correct. Walter: There are a total of three on my car, + coil, points & voltage regulator. Dan

Arne: Have you tried replacing one or both of the capacitors.Your High-output coil problem could be caused by a faulty capacitor, I copied this from another web site." When the points open the capacitor is connected in series with the coil. The voltage/current generated by the collapsing magnetic field charges the capacitor. This is the voltage/current source that is induced into the stepped up secondary winding. A coil opposes current flow while a capacitor enhances current flow. The enhancement of the capacitor balances out or cancels the opposition of the coil. The result is a faster collapse of the magnetic field and the highest possible voltage generated in the primary circuit. It's true that the capacitor reduces or prevents arcing at the points but its main function is to provide a circuit path for the coil after the points open and to speed up the collapse of the magnetic field." Dan

Guy: I just took all of the front off mine. Hope this helps as well. Dan

If you have no luck with Bruce or Roger, PM me. I am sure I can dig up what you need. Dan

I know, if I don't pick up the pace I will be able to call them NOS by the time I put them on.

Well, it was a long cold winter here, I only have a elec heater in the garage and it was over 4 months of way too cold to work on the car. I need to finish it this winter or upgrade the heater. I finally got the right rear quarter on and moved on to the right front. It was a nice surprise that the front rocker area was in good shape. Of course as the photos show the brace above the torsion box and behind the front steering brace were as bad as the drivers side. I removed the battery support and it is not to bad. I am almost all the way around the car for the first time.

Jim: another way to go is if you have an extra hazard switch you can lightly sand off the hazard marking and hand carve a fog light into the handle. Remove the connector from the switch and put the bullet connectors on the two wires you need. I think I saw this on esprist's web site a while ago.

AJ: I measured it with the mast down. How long is the metal part from the threaded tip to the crimped end you show in your photo.

Arne: I get 45" from the pointed tip to the end of the plastic string. I have no idea how long the metal part is from the tip to the crimped end. Dan

The reproduction knobs arrived today. I am quite pleased with them. Now I have to find a better bezel.

I use a foam earplug, just poke the wire though it and let it jam up against the wire feed block. It works great

This thread has some more information as well. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39219

If Bruce and or Greg can not help you, PM me. Dan

Brian: I have a few of them around. Pm me if you want. Dan

Dean: something like these would work, a bit pricey but they have been for sale for a while now and you might be able to get a better deal Dan http://manitoba.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-tires-rims-Minilite-Rims-W0QQAdIdZ242121235

Do these help? Sorry for the focus problems. After looking at the photos I posted it looks like I used the throttle lever instead of the choke lever. This might cause some confusion. Looking at your photo you have the wire loop on the wrong side. If you start at the longer side of the lever (left side in your photo) The order is choke wire loop, horseshoe shaped washer, brass spacer, bolt. Dan