240dkw

There are three condensers on the car, one on the distributor for the points and two for noise suppression. One connects to a male spade on the positive post of the coil and is grounded using the ballast resistor mounting bolt. The other one goes on the alternator + and -. Don’t buy the cheap ones from places like Rock Auto. None of the ones I bought lasted for more than a couple of hours. Napa has quality ones built in Mexico.

Used these doglegs on my car, don’t know where they came from as they were in the parts that came with the car.

I bought my RH fender from the local Nissan dealer in 2012 for $270.

I only did a quick read for the posting on the 73 car and although it is a nice car I did not see anything about documented low mileage, only that the odometer shows 14000. I am not sure I would use it as an reference point for how it came from the factory. I would agree with CanTechZ and maybe your questions should be When did the factory change from the quick dob of yellow paint to a paint mark using a paint pen. I would think it would be around when production started to catch up to demand and the factory started to get a larger budget for tools. My guess would be sometime in 73

Richard: I have found that the wire is quite malleable, you can straighten out the hooks on the ends and bend them tighter. If you have any spare ones try it, as with any wire too many back and forth bends will end up breaking. Dan

Does anyone know where this video can still be viewed? All of the links to it seem to broken. Even the later ones on YouTube. I wanted to show it to someone and now it seems to be gone.

It took a while, but I found the relay that I removed from a parts car that had the same type of antenna. It is a simple single coil double set of contacts style relay.Here is how it was done. In the de- energized state the power comes in on the red and out on the green, ground is blue to jumper to top terminal on left contact, yellow has no connection . In the energized state the power comes in on the red and now comes out on the blue and the jumper to the top terminal on the left contact has no connection, yellow is ground and green has no connection. I did not look at it when it was wired up, but I think if you wire your “up” on the green after the relay and use the “down” to energize the relay it should work.The blue goes to one wire on the motor and the yellow and green go to the other wire.

Went on a memorial cruise for a local car guy a few weeks ago and just found this photo posted. Nice photo of my car.

I’m in for a 1970 set

Went to a very large car show on Vancouver island for Father’s Day (625 + cars) there was a very nice orange early car there Vin 957, young gentleman that inherited it from his dad.

Yes, it is a 1970 Canadian car, a UN code. So it has none of the emissions equipment on it.

Kats, this is what I did, happy to say that everything is still in place and grommets are still soft.

Thought you folks would like a update. Mostly done trying to justify spending money on the correct exhaust.

I too had to straighten the ones on my car, not as bad as that but definitely bent.

The FSM sometimes has errors, but to say that all of the images are wrong seems off. What is the build month of your car, you may want to download the 1973 or 1975 manual and see if the relay panel images are closer to what you have.

Shawn: you can down load the FSM for a 260 here. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html and the Owners Manual http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/files/260zownersman.pdf

Jim, this is what I did as I do not have a TIG welder. Just checked it and the grommets are holding up.

Just to be clear, there is no such thing as"stock"door guards. They are an after market product put on by dealers and owners. If you like the look, and do not want to go through the work of welding the holes up and repaint, than just buy any aftermarket guards you like and replace them. Although I now see that your car is not a 240, but a 260-280 so I am not sure if the later models came with factory door guards.

Cannot give you any measurements, but there is a few photos of the area in my build thread that might help.

This is what I did. I cut it open with a metal saw and after blasting it there was no issue with welding it back together. I wore an correct mask for lead during the blasting and while welding.

So I had a look and what I said is correct, solid black wire from neg post on coil to spade on distributor. It should be along side a yellow wire that goes to the temp sensor right above the distributor.

I am sure that the condenser on the points needs to be connected, it is part of the points. The two other two, voltage reg and coil are used for noise reduction, but the points will not work in the one on the dizzy is not hooked up. As well the wire to the spade connector must be connected. I will look at my car later, but I think it is a wire that comes from the neg side of the coil.

My 1970 has a factory buzzer that goes off if I open the door with the key in the in the ignition .

Rockauto has a couple of choices at a better price.