240dkw

Looks like you can get one at Napa. https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/NCF1106029?partTypeName=Clutch+Pack&impressionRank=1&keywordInput=clutch

Have you tried the local Nissan dealer, it was a few years ago, but I bought several sets from them.

I know, the guy that sold me this one kept going on about how much they were worth and I thought it was a sale pitch. Now I see a really nice restored 72-73 goes for north of $20,000. It is quite interesting how much this product line follows the S30 line. First ones were made in 72 , but mostly registered as 73 so they are worth the most. Changes in the late 73-74 model improved it, more changes in 75 made it the last year of the Z1 as well as the most made so less value. Many changes in 76 and rebrand as a KZ. Went from 900 to 1000 cc

My understanding is that he uses a two stage process. First a dry media blast, not sure what the type is, assume glass beads and then the wet blast with glass beads.

Around $500

Trying not to clutter this site with bike stuff, but had to post how the engine parts came back from vapour blasting. Really impressed with the look. @CanTechZ I used VaporBlastCanada which is in Chilliwack if you need anything done.

Went for a lovely drive the other day, for us Canadians this is kind of a nice thing in Dec.

Replacing a rear quarter is a bit of work but quite doable. I did both of them on my car. l used a half dozen or so of the cheap spot weld bits. I cut about 6” lower than the original seam on the rooftop and butt welded it. Everything where else I plug welded using the hole left from drilling out the spot welds. Make sure not to drill trough when removing the old panel, you need the metal to weld to. I did not bother with any bracing.

It is one of the ends of the spray bar, as zedhead said take off the valve cover. Lucky it did not get caught in the timing chain on its way down to the oil pan.

Well, that could very well be. I used stuff that was in my pile of parts. I do not recall if they both were on positive cables or one of each.

I had a set of cables that the "blobs" were still on, but the ends were replaced with straight generic ones. This is what I did to make them more right(er). I used the covers as a mold.

Gas is cheap right now and I pay 4.88 per US gal. It has been over 5.00 most of the past year. And I drive as much as I want, it is like the cost of a cup of coffee, you just shrug and move on with life,

Sorry, I miss spoke, I have the non-emissions dizzy, 606-52. I saw the date in the first post and got it in my mind that it was a UN

That is interesting, I am positive that I went through this when I rebuilt my D612-52. I spent the better part of a day looking around the shop for the “lost spring”. And then took one out of a spare I had. Makes me wonder if I have rebuilt it incorrectly. Seems to run well.

Mike, here are a couple of photos, as there is no pressure as long as your PCV is working I would think that a few drops of Loctite would stop any leaking around there. Are you sure its not coming from the weep hole just above my thumb in the first photo. If the internal seal fails it will leak from there. All of the ones I have rebuilt had a failed seal.

Mike, When you get close to needing a fuel pump, let me know. I have a rebuilt one with all new internals. I have one more rebuild kit so I would like to have your old one, or I can just sell you the kit. Dan

It is a 1975 Z1 900, 4 cylinder, 4 stroke,.

Thought I would see if the original check valves could be reused, so the first one is an old used valve, middle four are all the bits when taken apart and the last one is one cleaned up, disc flipped around for a new surface and seat buffed up.

Always loved the RD400, that and the SR500 thumper would always have a space in my garage

Well, I have been looking for a new project and everything is beyond my price, so I picked up this to work on for the winter. Not a S30, but it is a 70’s Japanese Machine with a Z in the model name.

I think the gauge has a bimetallic strip in the circuit that heats up with current flow and opens than closes as it cools, if you put it straight to ground with no sensor it with heat up quickly. Take Zed Head’s advice and check it with a mechanical gauge.

I never implied that he needs a shell, just a possible source for a rail.

Years ago I got my rear quarters from a 73 at Hidden Valley Auto parts in Maricopa. I wonder if they still have the rest of the shell there. It would be worth a phone call.

Yes, they all seemed to work at first, I do not recall how long the first two lasted, a couple of weeks maybe? they would start causing the car to run very rough and backfire, the timing gets messed up. The last one went for about 150 km and then started doing the following, it would be running well and just shut off like the key was turn off, it restarted every time for a while and I thought I had a loose wire, and then completely died. Swapping out it with an old one worked. If you do not have the old one try using the one that is on the coil as I am sure it is just for noise suppression for the radio.

I would try replacing the condenser with one of you old ones if you still have it, I just went though three new ones that I bought from rockauto and all three failed. I am back to using one of my old ones with no problem.