240dkw

Mike: That is odd, I am sure there was never a underhood decal on mine. I do not think it ever had a repaint under the hood and I could not see any sign of glue or less faded paint in the sticker area before I had it painted. Dan

OK, I have to ask, is it my browser or something else. Every time I go to the gallery to look at any photos there are none. Almost every time there is a couple of people viewing the folder. Are they seeing something I am not?

I too check infrequently, mostly only if an ad on the side windows gets my attention.

I think you are correct, here is a post from a few years ago. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/39219-early-240z-gas-tank.html#post335894

I agree with the other posts, it will be very hard to stop the existing rust from growing without removing all of the mat. I would make a pattern of the mat, remove it all and the cut new ones and have them repainted when you do the car. I had the same issue on the underside of my car. the only rust was where the undercoating was chipped,cracked or scraped off. I removed it all,cleaned up the rust and re-coated it all. Dan Looks like AZ-240Z was faster on the keyboard than me.

Thanks guys, it is one of the 100 or so little items on my list to complete on the car

Again it comes down to the person. For me they are worth less. All I see is money I would have to spend to remove the V8's and return everything to stock. But for other people it would be worth more money. As stated before if it is a very well done swap it would be worth more to a smaller group of people who understand what it would cost to do it and want a V8. I think there would be more demand for a stock car in that shape than a V8.

I have been using this thread to find my leaks. When I rebuild my car I wanted to make sure that I had no exhaust coming back into the cab. I used new gaskets for the taillights, sealed all of the holes and used seam sealer on everything before I installed the int panels and used a new Kia seal for the hatch. But of course the car stinks bad. I did the first step using the vac to do the depressurize test. Right away I found both areas around the hinges leaking a lot. Just like the picture in the first post you could see the hinges with the hatch closed. I thought this was odd as not everyone has this problem. I taped open the rubber on the seal and closed the hatch. After removing the tape with the hatch closed the seal popped right into place. And I had a good seal. It seems that because the hinge is so close to the rubber it grabs the seal and pulls it down. I used some armor all to lubricate the seal and then opened and closed the hatch a few times. It seems to have solved the problem as the seal stays in place and I am getting a good seals everywhere. Not sure if this will always fix the problem, but it sure worked on mine. Dan

I am looking for a chrome ring that goes on the ashtray cover for the lighter. Jim, you must be done the 510 by now. this looks like a simple project for you.

Although it is quite dry here the are no forest fires in the area. Most of the bad ones are in the interior.

Hooked up my fancy new digital thingy to check the dwell angle today. I like the sticker on the bottom.

It is a Abarth

Mike: Yes it is a Canadian car. Is is HLS30-06513. Our cars might of been next to each other on the boat ride over. I don't know much about the car. It was last plated in Grande Prairie and I bought it in Sherwood Park. I think it was always a Alberta car. Dan

Just to close out this build thread. I have been driving it for the last while. Fighting a rear end noise, but otherwise running well. It has been a enjoyable, rewarding build. I learned a lot about bodywork and got to know my car quite well. Everyone positive feedback and help has been greatly appreciated. Dan

I am trying to start up my motor for the first time, Should I see any oil pressure while cranking the motor over? I have good oil flow when priming the oil pump out all of the cam oiler bar. Just don't seem to have any pressure on the gauge even when I install a gauge right in the sender port while cranking.

You will need the later strap bracket as well. It is wider to move the strap back. as well make sure to get the bolts and sleeves with the bracket.

As well, Congrats. I like the color

Not trying to hijack Marks thread, but yes I am quite digging life on the coast. Its like I'm on vacation full time. The Z made it here without a scratch or rock chip. Not bad for being pulled behind a 26 foot U-haul for around 900 kms.

Mark: I dropped mine off at the bodyshop in May and he said about a month to do the work. It was delivered to me in Oct. It was frustrating to wait that long, but I could not be happier with the end results. Once you are driving it back you will quickly forget about any frustrations while waiting. Dan

Very nice day so out it came for a bath. I still have to do the bleed the brakes so that is why there are blocks behind the wheels.

I will be there as well, this will be my first one.

I did just that after your post. I seem to remember that when we were out your way I called and you were stranded with a coolant leak while test driving a car.

All of the front end bits on. Including the splash pan and a big arse sway bar.

Well, hit another milestone today. Motor all tucked in and I think it is happy to be home. I have had a few days over the last few years thinking this day would never arrive. I hope to not start any threads about no spark/fuel/idle/weird noises, but cannot promise anything.

Blue: I had no problems with getting the corners in. Finally got to install my new door panels. One more day and the inside will be done. Only big item left is the motor.