240dkw

That is close, the pressure did not shoot up, it started following the rpm’s. like the pressure relief was not working. At the exact time that my pressure problem stopped it started smoking. I pulled the head because of the smoke and the fact the leak down test showed something wrong with #5 and #6. I have just finished cleaning the head and changing the valve seals. Because I have not found anything wrong so far, l am going to put the head back on and run it. It is very possible that it is a very rich problem, before I put the carbs back on I will have a good look at them.

I did start there as well, I used a variable resistor and walked the gauge up and down the scale and it is working correctly a few days before this happened. I do not disagree with you as a coincidental problem.

The head gasket idea is what drove me to take the head off, but I can not find anything wrong with it. It has about 600 miles on a complete rebuild and has been running awesome with no problems until this one.

Captain: Sorry for the confusion, jonbill is correct. It has been running great, but with high oil pressure for about 100 miles or so. Then I checked the relief valve, all good with no modification. Started it up again and still had the problem.. Shut it down, installed gauge started it up and pressure was good at 61 psi. Shut it down and installed a new pressure sensor I had. Start it up and reading was good, but started running rough. Looked in rear view mirror and large cloud of blue smoke. This all happened in the space of 15 min. The two problems might not be connected as Zed Head eluded to but it seems to me that they are connected.

It smokes at idle and a greater amount(a lot) of smoke when reved up. The odd thing is that the higher oil pressure disappeared at the same time it started to smoke. Almost like something let loose. The smoke is blue.

It did just start to happen, it has only ran in the garage since it started to smoke.

It would get over 80 psi when up around 5000 RPM, it followed the engine speed 40-45 at idle and up to 80+. The "problem is a rather large amount of smoke coming out the pipe. I do believe the high oil pressure caused something to happen.

Found this while looking through a older repair manual, check out the engine number

Here is a label I found under the seat as well.

I have spent the last few days trying to solve my engine problem with no luck so far. The motor has been running for a week with oil pressure that would get higher with engine RPM. I did a search and figured it was the pressure relief in the oil pump. I took the relief out of the oil pump and everything looked good. After reinstalling it, I had the same problem. I then installed a gauge in the oil sensor port and ran it for a while. It started to run at a nice 60 psi. And I thought I had fixed it but at the same time it started to run really rough. And of course really started smoking out the exhaust. I pulled the plugs and all six looked nasty. Black and oily. The fact that all of the plugs are dirty is odd. I pulled the PCV hose off and ran it for a while to see if any oil was coming from there and back to the intake but it was good.I then did a compression test with the following results. #1 - 158 #2 - 159 #3 - 160 #4 - 160 #5 - 158 #6 - 157 I then did a leak down test #1 - 100/92 #2 - 100/94 #3 - 100/92 #4 -100/94 #5 - 100/81 #6 - 100/80 I can hear the air leaking somewhere on both 5 and 6 So I pulled the head off. There is a fair bit of oily, black soot inside the cylinders. Everything looks good on the head gasket, so I have not found anything yet. As it is in all 6 cylinders I do not understand where it is coming from. Is it possible for the oil to be passing by the rings and still get that good of compression results? What would the cylinders look like if it was a coolant leak instead of oil?

Part number says it is for a 1979 Nissan 280ZX

I found that when using this wire, a flap disc in the 60-80 grit works very well. I can not say enough on how easy it was to clean up my ugly welds using this wire. https://www.esabna.com/us/en/products/filler-metals/mig-mag-wires-gmaw/mild-steel-wires/spoolarc-easy-grind.cfm

4250 km for me 40 hrs if I drive like jfa.series1

The curved tensioner screw plates were used for the fuel lines, all the rest are the flat plates.

OK i had to check this because I have a original fender on the drivers side and a new fender from Nissan that I bought around 2011on the passengers side. Drivers side (original) 11.8 at front, 11.0 at top and 13.8 at rear. Passengers side(2011) 9.3 at front, 9.4 at top and 12.4 at rear. So it looks like he is correct.

My 07/70 has an early hood as well, No drain holes, no reinforced corners. And I am sure that it had a flat hood release, but I mixed up my parts when I was putting it back on which means zKars has it in his parts pile now.

Ok after seeing these photos I take back my statement that the wires will be there. It looks like some major hacking has gone on with the harness. 240260280 is correct check the connector at the passenger foot panel, if it is there then you might find where the wire has been cut at the back end.

standard tank or not the wires will be there

While that is a very nice low vin, I have to say there is nothing different with the fuel sender wiring on a early car compare to any other 69-70 car. I am guessing based on the fact that you stated in a early post that there is a green wire going to the fuel pump that some PO has messed with the wiring as a 69-70 car would not have had a rear fuel pump and has it been added. So I would recheck the loom. It might be a white connector the the short piece for the fuel sender plugs into. Follow the green wire back into the main loom.

So I was able to do a bit of trading with someone and ended up with a very nice canadian brochure, as well as a May 70 owners manual which will work well or my car. Included was a 510 canadian one as well.

Is it the rubber mat material that was used on the early cars instead of carpet?

I hear you, I spent a year working for Husky Oil in the Cold Lake area and during Maple Leaf days they would come over just above the tree top, one chasing another and just scare the *#$@ out of us.

No it was removed to do the repair, photo is of it reinstalled on the new(original) rebuilt motor. And yes it was drilled out at both ends of the crack and ground out between the holes. I think it will last for quite a while, but will keep checking it every so often.

So after a very skilled welder (not me) tried a few different options, what worked best was a brazed repair.

It is also the stock one for the 69-70 HLS30-UN. Conedodger I sent you a pm