240dkw
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Everything posted by 240dkw
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So after a very skilled welder (not me) tried a few different options, what worked best was a brazed repair.
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It is also the stock one for the 69-70 HLS30-UN. Conedodger I sent you a pm
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KMS stocks some Eastwood products, maybe they can bring in what you want without any shipping costs.
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Does anyone have really good photo of this decal, I thought I could remove it to plate the cover, but I destroyed it in the process without taking a good photo first. I hope to get it reproduced.
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Siteuneen: FYI the second photo shows the parts, the mirror is not glued in, there is a rubber backing pad and they just float in the body held by the rolled edge. The metal is quite mailable just take your time.
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Post #145
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Yes, i agree the door switch would turn them off and on, just not sure how the wire would go from the switch to the lights in the door. The wires would have to be long enough to open the door all the way and not to long to get pinched it the door when closed. As well as holes drilled in both the door and A pillar. Seems like a lot, when the hole is already in the door card and wires run in the harness. Much more than plug and play.
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Mark: that is how most of the youtube's show it being done. Now to see if I have the wherewithal to give it a try.
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I wonder how the power is ran, as there is no hole in the door or A pillar?
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I have had a plan to swap out the non-original motor in my car with the original, correct motor at some point and decided it was time to do it. I have been very happy with how the motor has been running, just want the number correct motor in it. First little problem I found was a broken cam oiler tube. This is very common and as I had checked the valve settings this spring and saw no problem then it is a fairly new problem. I have another oiler to replace it. The next problem was a bit disappointing. It seems I have developed a crack in my E30 non-emission exhaust manifold. The second photo shows the pattern of the exhaust on the back side of the heat shield. Now to decide if I try to weld it myself or pay someone to do it.
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I was just reading a TSB for the 1973 carb mods and the fuel free flow test with both the elec and mech pumps is 3 pints/min or 22.5 us gal/hr at 1000 rpm's so I do not think your pump is weak. If you do not find a "smoking gun" with a fuel problem, you should try changing out the capacitor on the dizzy. As they get old they can start to fail at higher voltage and create a problem where the rpm's go flat at WOT looking like a fuel starvation issue.
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I had to look it up, but yes the updated function is called the ATC or automatic temperature control. Page TE-28 in the service manual. They moved the flap from the snorkel to controlling the hot air from the heat riser on the bottom of the air cleaner.
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Kats. We have provinces in Canada, not states. And there is no flapper on the larger 73 air box.
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I do not think the summer/winter flapper is a cold area option. Every car in North America has one of these after 1971. And I would guess most had it on the 71 model as well.
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This one is off a 73 and no hole. It is looking at the outside of the right side(on the left) and inside of the left side( on the right).If that makes any sense.
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Not sure about the first two photos, but the last one is part of the sale of HLS300059 back in 2007. I tried to buy just the NOS panels, but the seller would not split it up. Here is the car.
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Not a Z, but maybe one of the boats they came over on. First one is the MS Bluebird and second one is the MS Asahigawa Maru. Photographs by Walter E. Frost, These are in the Port of Vancouver May of 1969
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M333hp: Good luck with finding information as to where the car first landed. I would think that if you got the original engine with the car there are enough parts on it to say whether or no it is a HLS30UV or an HLS30UN. To me that would be enough of a answer as to looking south of the border or here for paper work. As well as which way to restore it.
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I really do not think he is trying to mess with any VIN, just try to find out if there is a way to find out if it was imported into Canada or the US in 1970. Nissan used extra letters in the VIN to track where they were shipped to, but did not put these letters to any of the VIN numbers on the car. Kind of think you are off base with the whole title thing.
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This post might help, as it is a lower vin than mine and on the west coast I think it would have none of the emission equipment on it if it is a Canadian UN car. That includes no air pump, no vapor tank, only three holes in the tubing isolators (brake,fuel and fuel return), double grove hormonic balancer, smooth balance tube, no flow guide, no small port on the block vent tube to name a few things. That said if it was brought into Canada via Ont. than it would have all of that and look just like a US car.
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1970 240Z in SD. Surprised if this lasts one day.
240dkw replied to motorman7's topic in Internet Finds
Looks like a later dash. -
My Rockers seem to be a little off, or I'm off my Rocker(s)
240dkw replied to zKars's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
So we now know where your getting your stroker from.
