balaguy

I just bought a nine off dagger tools its a nice website if you havn't checked it out. im gonna try the disc first and see if that will work it seems a little less expensive for start up and more forgiving (i hope).

i am considering the shrinking disc. i am also embarased to say i tried this with a propane tourch, not o2/acc. I didn't think i needed to get my metal that hot to get the results i wanted and now im quiet positive that i didn't heat it up enough.

I have been doing body work on my 70 240 and like most im learning as i go. My roof is is pretty good shape "wavey as most 240z are." However, in one area it looks like a football with a 10 sec hang time came down on my roof and streched the metal. My idea was to heat it up, and bring it back to its original shape( everyone says its so easy). Anyway to make a long story longer its rasied (bubbled) I have heated cooled rapidly, then heated and let cool, slowly while dollying to see if that works better,ect. its not looking good and i dont want to ruin my car. Am i doing something wrong or not doing enough?

Thanks guys for the help. You all told me what i wanted to hear, and without any negative feedback/personal cheap blows (I think there is some retired individuals that just sit at home and put there 10 cents into every comment on this site.) greatly appreciated Andy Balaguy

Thats what i would like to do, I just want to make sure im heading the right direction.

THe batt tray is gone the inner fender is rusted out about the size of half the battery's base to the firewall. I just purchased a clean front clip and i and i would like to make this as painless as possible. My question is should i drill out the spot welds on the inner side of the strut tower and match up my new piece all the way to the fire wall, or make the patch as minimal as i can. I dont want to mess with the camber or alingment of the car but would like to keep it as strong as i can since i have all the steel. Would prefer to not do a whole clip conversoin for a 6X8 hole. If any one would like to share where the did their cutting and the issues they may have encoutered i would appreciate the input, befor i make any cuts. thanks andy

Their testimonials seem convincing, but when do they not?

I was worried that was going to be the response. I guess i will start hunting.

Assume nothing in the car works, and start replacing things. Could be mechanical or electircal. You did the battery and fluids. Now assume your starter is froze, and then go to your alt(it will need to be replaced almost idefenitely). Then work your way into fuses and trace electircal problems backwards. The problem is you might replace all this and find out that the engine is blown?? If you have no exp, then you need to go off common sense. If you have a hard time with common sense ( in the mechanicle spectrum) This could end up costing you thousands to get it started?? Be careful things add up quick.

Does anyone know a good place to by a new batter holder/support ( not a tray) and any suggestions on the cheapest, way to handle the rusted out hole in the fender? Wire mesh, mold some metal, cut a piece out of a good one??? thanks A

thanks

You can do all this but unfortunatly there is no formula. The only way is to start with the fender flares, and get out the measuring tape. After that you can go custom made rims or billet custom made adapters/spacers to go with the rim you decided to go with. Or you u can copy someone else taking into consideration what they have done. Sorry, for the lack of info. I went through the same issues and I think a lot of guys do. My advise to you is get the flares on the car, find the rims you want, and do adapters to make up the difference in measusred space. There just isn't a lot of rims out there for these cars and suprisingly lots of guys go for the old school look with 15/16. I played it safe and went 17/7 with 225/45/17 from motorsport.

I was told that I need a shop to do it because they facilitate a lift to support the car equally. I was also told that doing the pans without the car being supported by a lift will cause the car to tweak /change shape because of the unibody const being weakend. Is this a potential prob or can I do this in my garage on the weekend?

For a 5 and 6 inch rim you can have a 1/2 inch offset, for a 7 its zero. Anything after that is all aftermarket. Generally speaking you can run up to about a 10mm offset on 16 17 18 inch rims. However you have to take into consideration your suspention and tire series. You look new to the website so going back to basics go to Zcarmotorsports.com they have a decent inventory or rims and can give you an idea of tire rim variations. I am running 17 with 45 series with the car lowered 2 inches and I still have room to go lower

I have a 70 240z and the wiring is FUBAR! I just removed the old rear harness because the lighting in the back is was not original i don't know what year it was off of but the plugs for the lights were not from a 240. So I went to repalce with a original harness off a 71 in good shape all tested it pluged right in and all grounds are good and now nothing works. All my ground wires are getting power which leads me to my dash. My dash is a mess nothing is correct, im pretty sure that something is giving my grounds power and instead of fixing what i have i think hunting down a harness that has not been destroyed like mine might be a better bet. thanks Andy ABalaguy@yahoo.com