swflaz

Actually, I had considered that hole saw idea as a possibility since the metal around that hole is solid. Nice to get some confirmation of that approach. Why not give it a try?

I'll give it a try minus the rubber bits, thanks.

Wow that is really effective. Appreciate the info. (slow to respond since i was out of town for a while). Thanks, Richie G.

If you were reading the service manual last night I can recommend some good books. Just kidding. Sounds like a good idea. Let's see where it goes. I'm not aware of a form like you are suggesting that already exists but my experience level here is not as deep as other posters.

Per suggestions from Patcon and grannynot I've pulled up some of the floor deadening material around the hole in the drivers side floor pan. Most of it came up readily with the help of a large flat blade screwdriver and a stiff bladed putty knife. There was no rust where the tar material was still firmly attached to the floor but in all areas where there was any separation there was some rust. I went over the area with a worn down wire wheel on my Dremel which cleaned it up pretty nicely. It looks like the main problem is still with the yellow painted patch where the pencil was inserted in the first photo. Attached is a progress photo. Lighting is not the best in that small space. Will continue until all is removed. Just wanted to post an update for anyone else looking at this situation themselves. More spaces left to uncover. To be continued.

Thanks grannyknot, didn't realize that that was the case. Hate to lose the sound deadener but I suspect you are correct as to it being a source of current/future rust problems. Trying to look on the bright side, I'm not just losing sound deadener, I'm gaining another project!!! Comment is much appreciated. Working on bumpers right now but will try and post what I find in a bit.

Thanks Patcon, I'll remove some more material around those 2 holes (and other rust spots) and see where i stand then. Appreciate the advice as always.

P.S. The second floor pan photo looks more wrecked than it really is. It was just treated with Evapo Rust and the metal is pretty solid around the hole location.

I have two spots on the drivers side floor pan that have rusted thru (I stuck a pencil thru each of them). Am wondering about the best fix approach since body work is definitely not my strong suit. These holes definitely do not require a full floor pan replacement IMHO. Will try to show in accompanying pics.

Followed up on Mark's comment and found another poster a while back using Weldwood Contact Cement by Dap for interior applications. The 3oz. can for 12 bucks has a brush applicator. Also saw a pint of the same product for about 20 dollars. Both have great reviews. can also be thinned with acetone if desired.

Sorry for the lousy pic post positioning.

On my 72 I have several places where the diamond patterned vinyl has lifted up. any tried and true materials recommendations for resealing?

Looking for specific original paint color and sanding, wire wheels, sand blasting, prep. approaches.

OK, Patcon, thanks for letting me know he's still around.

siteunseen, "I hear that! Thanks for the plethora (sp?) of posts to explore. Now to get started.

Thanks Patcon , much appreciated. Do you know of a different web address that i should try?

Speaking of window rollers: does anyone know if Steve Nixon (nix240z) is still a viable source for rollers? (has the molds, etc.) seems like 240zrubber parts.com is non responsive.

Well, I was kind of afraid of that solution/recommendation. Hoping for an easier way out. The door window crank works quite well except that I need rollers replaced to stabilize the glass. I have copies of the excellent posts from qz16, Scanlon as revised by Kroshefsky on window and door redos so at least I'll have some guidance to follow. Thanks for commenting Bryan.

Must have stuttered when I added the pic.

I am trying to install the two door handles on a 72Z. The window glass keeps me from accessing the screws on the inside of the door that I would fasten the outer handle baffle (flat metal piece) to. The actual slot that the glass sits in appears to have 3 fasteners with nuts holding the glass in place. I'm wondering if it is feasible to loosen those nuts enough to lift the glass out of the slot so I can access the door handle from the inside then reinsert the glass. Clear as mud? Any comments are appreciated.

Thanks for the photos AZ-240Z. That helps. I didn't know that the inner side of the wheel was a light grey. The front side of my wheels are still pretty clean since they were covered by hubcaps but the outer edges are rough and surface rusting a bit. Thanks for responding.

I'm getting ready to paint my original wheels on my 1972 (12/71) Zcar. wondering if there is a specific color (in the interest of originality) or should i just go with what appears to be a medium to dark grey. any help is appreciated.

Hi Yarb, yes the transmission has been drained and refilled. No water, thank goodness. Next project is getting the interior back together. Thanks for the comment.

Problem solved. apparently the cause was water intrusion during the above mentioned storm which eventually seized up the shifter. Continual lubrication and gentle tapping finally freed up the shifter so now i can access four gears and reverse. Now on to the next challenge. thanks for your comments and suggestions.

P.S. have also got it to move to the right enough to engage third and fourth gear but not reverse yet. Just very very stiff.