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Thanks Patcon and dutchzcarguy. Trying unsuccessfully to get a couple of clarifying pics up. found no water in the tranny and added new lube. however, the barrel shaped piece that the shifter fastens to was seized up. probably from water intrusion over a few months time. it moved fore and aft in first and second but not to the side to get to third and forth or reverse. managed to loosen it some with PB blaster and equivalent and some prying/light hammering. moving it backward in an attempt to get it off and clean up. Have moved it rearward about an inch so far. Continuing in the A.M.

Thanks for the suggestions I'll be trying those out today. I'll post any results.

wrong entry

My 1972 (11/71) 240Z is in the garage for engine work. The shifter has been in the neutral position all that time. Now that it's ready to be test driven we find that the shifter is hung up and will not engage first or second gear but only third and fourth. On an important side note, the car was two miles inland during hurricane Ian and flood water came up about 18 inches on the sides of the car. Don't know whether water may have found a way in. Thoughts please.

Thanks, Zcars, for the additional inputs and photos. I've always had good luck with Mothers products.

Thanks for the recommendation. i'll give it a try.

The rubber parts on my bumpers are still in pretty good shape (not cracked) but faded as you would expect. any suggestions on good rubber refresh products or methods? Thanks for any help.

OK, got at the root of the problem. It turns out that the 2 valves were indeed installed incorrectly. A little embarrassing since I was so convinced the rebuild was right. Anyway, after a couple of disassembly and reassembly attempts it is pushing fuel thru just fine just by hand pumping. It was a bit of a bear to get back on but is now reinstalled. didn't try to start it yet since it was late and i was not in the mood to start trouble shooting if necessary. Plan to try to start first thing in the A.M. Fingers crossed. Thanks to the contributors. i'll report back one more time after it starts.

As far as mechanical pumps go, i may wind up giving up on them as well. i'll know in another day or two. Thanks

Thanks i'll keep that in mind when i check it out tomorrow and let you know. Do you recommend using carb cleaner?

yes, i have. first pulled off the two fuel hoses that come off the fuel rail into the carbs and was able to blow thru both. So, no clogged needle valves. next i removed the fuel pump (didn't do it on the car for several reasons) to do a manual operation check. with a fuel hose on the entry side in a small container of gas i manually pumped a bunch of times and it was not delivering fuel. so that's the problem. Before i replace the pump i'm taking it apart to see what the problem is. Might have to replace it but it was rebuilt a few months ago. Maybe the diaphragm got compromised some how. More later.

Thanks for the ideas. i have noticed that the fuel bowls were empty but just blamed it on the fuel pump, not thinking about clogged needles in the float chambers. i've actually added fuel to the fuel bowls with a syringe and it will run for a minute or two until the bowls are empty again. Bottom line is that i will try all the above recommendations and see how it goes. grateful for everyone's input. What a great site .

Good idea. i have some aftermarket models in my notes back before i decided to just rebuild mine. they are not that expensive and it should solve the "is the pump the problem?" issue. thanks for checking back in.

A god news, bad news day. i removed the valve cover without destroying the gasket. Was able to see exactly how the fuel pump arm is supposed to sit on (and not under like i may have had it) the cam off the end of the camshaft. also checked the direction the pump was pushing. (you can actuate the level and feel a puff of air coming from the carb feed side). that was good so i reinstalled the pump and hoses. then put the input hose in a small bottle of gas and tried to start with no luck. then it ran for about 10 seconds using starter fluid but quit after that. SO, i still can't get fuel to the carbs and feel like i'm back to square one. Anyone with new thoughts?

Thanks, i'll try that when i get the valve cover off. Probably this morning. Don't need the new pump but thanks for the offer.

Thanks for the "good reads". several very helpful comments. one of which was making sure that the fuel pump arm is riding on the offset cam lobe and not below it. one of my concerns was whether i had just incorrectly installed it in the block. i'll probably still remove the valve cover just to learn more. Thanks to all. i'll report back when i fix it.

Yes, i've thought about that option. still trying to keep it as original as possible. We'll see .

i totally agree. thanks for your inputs. i'll add to this thread when i figure it out. Soon , i hope.

right, got it. just curious, if i remove the valve cover will i be able to see where the pump arm rests inside the block? Thanks again.

still the original "Denke" ? Thanks

Thanks for the input. i'll try that in the A.M.

when i'm reinstalling my fuel pump after rebuild is there a need to go over or under a cam in the block or do you push it straight in. i'm asking because it's not feeding fuel to the carbs and i don't believe that the pump valves are installed incorrectly. any help is appreciated.

Thanks, zKars yeah I saw some GMB and Delphi items that might work as cannibalization options as well since i'm trying to keep my original unit. I my try that route if the new Datsun parts.com source doesn't work out. Per a Carl Beck mention back in 2017 if you are replacing the whole pump the GMB 550-8040 is compatible with (and a Denki lookalike) the early Zs and runs about 30 to 35 bucks on ebay. in my case, i wanted to keep the unit and just replace the guts.

OK Jim, thanks again. found the parts and ordered. Shipping today. Website even responded on Sunday.

Thanks, JIm. That's a good site that I had missed. they didn't have a rebuild kit under the 240Z category so I checked the 1500, 1600 and 2000 parts.They have a kit that also works for Fairlady but only up to 1970. So, still looking. Many thanks for your post.